OzH Posted October 6, 2022 Share Posted October 6, 2022 I bought a box of 10 off ebay for £3.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293502270179 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted November 15, 2022 Author Share Posted November 15, 2022 Thanks everyone, bulbs sourced and fitted. I now have a secondary dilemma. How to connect the wires up to the diff light. I would expect these to solder type, spring loaded, or just simple screw. Am I missing something? Special ferrule? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Strange. The connections on mine were spring loaded. Solder these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 (edited) The pins/clasps Call them what you will should push in and there should be a hole for the wire do this without the bulb fitted the bare wire can be soldered for better grip / reason for suggesting solder on the bare wire is to hold the strands together Edited November 16, 2022 by wally dugan reason for the use of solder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artifficer Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Push the forked pin into the light unit you will see a hole, push the stripped portion of the wire and let the pin go, it will extend and clamp the wire. No need to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 Hi The original bulbs are double filament, the two filaments are wired in parallel, this is so that if one filament fails, the light will still work. They are double pin, one pin for +ve and one for -ve. The bulb locating pins are not offset. As far as I am aware all the WW2 light fittings were push fit type an not soldered, the ones on you axle light look very badly corroded. Some pictures of original twin filament bulbs Cheers Richard 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted March 25, 2023 Author Share Posted March 25, 2023 Hi Richard. Absolutely spot on with your instructions above. Years of grease and grime, and remanent bits of sandblasting residue had blocked the holes up, seised the plunges from moving, little screw driver, cloth with some thinners, all cleaned up back functional, I’ve tinned the wires finished off the wiring. New rubbers for the brakes, now ready for physically rolling it back on its feet. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 Bit more progress tonight. Trailer now back on its wheels. Hitch greased up and bolted back on. Completed the little bit of welding left on the lockers, trial dry fit. Also managed to pick up a nice original set of canvas mudflaps. Slowly taking shape. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 Really coming on nicely! How did you get on with shackle bolts? The wet bolts for the spring hangers? Did you manage to re-use the originals or did you have to replace them? On my mortar trailer, the originals either snapped or were really badly worn and I've had trouble sourcing replacement wet bolts so any pointers would be welcome please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted March 27, 2023 Author Share Posted March 27, 2023 Thanks for the feedback. Trailer shackles. Think this the hot topic for lots of people restoring these trailers. I was lucky, I’ve used two trailer to restore one good one. So had some choice. Lots of heat to prevent them from snapping, fortunately they weren’t worn out. Heat is the critical bit in saving them. The problem with the GS trailers and mortar trailers, they have spent the last 60 years being used and abused by builders/ gardeners etc, simply worn out., Best option maybe to pick up a donor trailer, take of the parts you need and sell on again, come to think of it, that’s how I ended up with this stores trailer. I have deliberated making these in the past. But they will be case hardened, getting this right would be critical to the function. Whether these shackles were used on cars of the period, maybe the little morris. , I’m not sure. ..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 Thanks for the feedback I have found suitable bolts that are currently holding it all together but I've not pulled if more than a couple of hundred yards at the moment I have a second set of regular bolts and a mate who is handy with a lathe is going to try to make them into wet bolts I did look for period cars, that's where the brakes came from, can't find a match.. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 Hi These might do for shackle bolts (I did have a problem finding some for my truck but got luck in obtaining some NOS ones) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325113918988 Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gurr Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 OzH, When I restored my 10 cwt GS trailer the shackle bolts, bushes and U bolts were all well beyond use and I had to have new ones made using the best originals as patterns. I went to FRM Truck and Trailer Spares in Aldershot who sent my patterns away, the results were excellent albeit not cheap. 5 years ago shackle pins were £23 and bushes £13 each Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted April 24, 2023 Author Share Posted April 24, 2023 Sundays progress. Trailer wheel arches. Managed to adapt these from a generator trailer. Well rusted in places. So I’ve had to make some repairs. Blasted and primed, bolted on for now till I get round to riveting. An all day event, good job this isn’t an hourly paid thing. I’d be make no money. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 "good job this isn’t an hourly paid thing. I’d be make no money"........definitely, dont work out an hourly rate for trailer rebuilds!😄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted May 1, 2023 Author Share Posted May 1, 2023 (edited) This weekends progress…. Marking out then drilling 100s rivet holes. Really not too excited about actually doing the riveting bit! Frames now ready for blasting. Edited May 1, 2023 by Jerryjeeprichard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted May 3, 2023 Author Share Posted May 3, 2023 Tonight’s progress, frames back from the blasters, first coat of primer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted May 7, 2023 Author Share Posted May 7, 2023 Little bit of progress with todays sunshine. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted June 2, 2023 Author Share Posted June 2, 2023 Christmas has come early. All the tin work I need to start lining the lockers. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted June 4, 2023 Author Share Posted June 4, 2023 Good few days progress. Treated all the panels to coat of zinc primer. Then started the slow job of fitting out the frame work. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted June 5, 2023 Share Posted June 5, 2023 Outstanding work there! The view in the background isn't too shabby either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted August 21, 2023 Author Share Posted August 21, 2023 Bit more progress on the stores trailer. Just a few shelf’s left to make and fit. Then on to fitting the hinges and doors. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh Five Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 Hello, can I ask a couple of questions, please? Is it just pop rivets securing the metal skins for the boxes? What thickness of steel are the skins? What are the dimensions of the steel angles used for the frames? Thank you Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerryjeeprichard Posted August 22, 2023 Author Share Posted August 22, 2023 Hi Dan I’ll try and help. No not pop rivets, they are round head rivets, that are hot pressed. Currently the locker tinwork is screwed together, temporarily while I ensure everything goes together. Sheet skins are 1.5mm thick, I’ve used zintec, just for the additional protection, and has the added benefit isn’t covered in oil, so painting is easer. Angle iron, from the bottom up, 1 1/4 inches, middle bit 1 inch, top bit 3/4 inch Hope this helps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh Five Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 Thank you very much for the information. More to think about for ideas and projects. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.