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Everything posted by OzH

  1. I was thinking more along the lines of if you main cross member was usable, you may only need the rest..? Or you could get a local fabricator to knock out a bit of had channel for that piece? I had to do that for the cross member that goes under the rear of the tub
  2. The main cross section in my photo is the JMP piece in the picture and at the time I restored my jeep they only did the ACM2 replacement channels you have pictured and as I have a ACM1 tub, that was the only piece I used... So, I have the rest spare if you want to PM me an offer?
  3. I added some stock steel in place of the original oak, loads of primer and then dynax wax I use this stuff on the Jeep and my wifes VW Camper
  4. I found the same, do the wiring when the tub is off. I also built a jig on wheels to make it easier to move move around to get access
  5. Thanks for the tip Simon. My daughter makes resin jewelry, I was thinking that she may be able to put a thin clear layer over the top, but I may just try this first...
  6. Carriage bolts arrived and are installed, small detail but would have bugged me..! Springs and axle re-assembled And back on wheels again.. I have a set of 1/2" bolts ready to go round to one of the local fabricator/machine shops but these will do for now.. On a side note, I managed to win a ropey old T plate on ebay - not cheap..! Some very careful use of paint stripper, sanding, masking and painting has come up OK. I just need to polish out the reflectors some how..
  7. From what I remember there are a couple of options for spot weld drill bits, these were my preference as you only grind out one of the metal skin of a spot weld you are drilling from, so makes it easier when rejoining new metal, its basically a flat headed drill bit.. The other type that I think you describe above, either cuts out both skins so leaves a hole that will need filling or a bump that needs cleaning up before joining new metal. I also found them much more tricky to use due to needing to keep it square as Chris says above Just my experience...
  8. I think this is one of the filters..? not cheap..! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-Bedford-Chevy-Water-Bowser-Trailer-Meta-Stellar-Water-Filter/324342143841?hash=item4b844c5b61:g:mMsAAOSwOTZfSDKC
  9. Hi Richard, they should be 1/2” all the way through. All I’ve found online are 9/16” with a 1/2” thread so just to big Saying that, those have found look to be correct.. We have a couple of good vintage car/restoration places near by, I’ll try them before I buy the ones from the US.. Thanks for the pointer..
  10. Could be Simon, wasn't sure what these are called so I go for a description!? but I agree, I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get some made up or modify some 1/2" x 3 1/2" bolts I found on ebay Thanks
  11. Some evening work this week on the springs, I will replace the bolts with the correct carriage bolts, on order will swap them once they arrive. No idea what these are called, thin brass tubes that have perished And, re-assembled one set of brakes Compare with how these were, only things I had to replace were the oil seals and the grease!
  12. So, I think I've run into a problem that I had overlooked until now While disassembling the trailer, I managed to shear all but one of the the spring hanger bolts, even with heat, penetrating oil and lots of gentle persuasion, they all (bar one) sheared they are a 1/2" BSF grease bolt, does anyone have any idea where I could come by 5, preferably 6 of them? I have bought a load of 3.1/2" bolts so I can continue re-assembly, but in the long term I'd like the correct grease bolts.. Any help welcome..
  13. I finished welding the top during the week Over the weekend I painted the right side, flipped the chassis over it in its rig (sounds easy doesn't it!), cleaned and painted the left side Once that was done, I hoisted it up again and dismantled the jig so the chassis is back on stands ready to re-assembly The rig was then dismantled, I now have a load of kindling..! Loads of parts prepped ready for re-assembly Doing this single handedly and had a few hairy moments flipping the chassis over and getting off the rig.. but should be fairly smoot
  14. Fantastic thread Chris.. I'd love a halftrack... Maybe one day!!
  15. Great weather last weekend and I actually had time on my hands so got on with some work on the trailer Started to clear off paint and surface rust with a wire wheel on a grinder Big nasty rusty plate on the underside Surgically removed the plate and found more.. Chopped all that out and started adding new good metal And a nice clean new plate added Not the neatest welding but should do the job..! More to do on the upper side front All cut out ready for fabricating incerts..
  16. I humbly apologise for my behaviour.. I am working to the resolve the issue as soon as possible..
  17. The one in the link I've sent is £90.. works for me..
  18. I bought a cheapy one off ebay, put it on and a gust of wind literally ripped it off..! Not as expensive as mentioned above, but I then bought this one off ebay designed for a CJ Jeep so similar profile Its tough, breathable and covers down below the wheels and has cross straps to keep it in place. I have the hood bars up without the hood so it all but keeps it off the jeep from the windscreen back Its on the Jeep out of the garage now as my wifes Nissan Figaro has developed a leaky roof an that can't possibly stay out in the cold!!! I do check now and then and so far everythin
  19. Have you thought of contacting the Royal Signals Museum in Blandford, they may be able to help you out?
  20. The PTD had the crypto fill in it, the CIG was the actual encryption unit, you used to fill the CIG, then remove and lock your PTD away, next power failure or wipe, you then used the PTD to refill... or along those lines Having worked in crypto for a good few year, I have seen these at shows and museums and get a bit twitchy!! I guess as Ptarmigan is no longer in use its probably all declassified and available but not much use without the Switch to programme the PTD... No friends in Crypto...!
  21. Snap... literally! I had the same issue Have a look at this chap in Holland https://staman.nl/parts/jeep/group-6-electrical/0604
  22. Just a word of caution on vehicle trackers. The cheap ones you buy on ebay are based on mobile phone technology and use GPS tracking. A lot of the more sophisticated car thieves now have GPS scramblers/blockers that will stop you being able to track your vehicle.. There are companies out there that use both GPS and VHF tracking as well, may cost a bit more but worth looking at These guys are good, I had a mate who bought a used caravan, had it stolen from his drive, the police then told him to check with these guys to see if it had had a tracking device on it. He called them, t
  23. Thanks... it started in a similar state as yours! Hopefully a bit of inspiration!
  24. no worries, looked like you had slotted it in back to front!
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