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Posted (edited)

Just an update on this weekends progress, Axles stripped, all component parts de-greased and ran through the blast cabinet. 

The bearings on the trailer were shot. So treated it to an new set of Timken's 

Getting the hubs of the drums was easy with the flypress, they went with a right CRACK, when they parted. Pushing the old bearing seats out of the hubs turned into particular nasty job ..... in the end I had to resort to welding some flat bar to give me some purchase on the fly press. 

 

Its easy to see how so many hubs have damaged threads, Without the press i'm not sure these would have come out with serious damage. 

 

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Edited by Jerryjeeprichard
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  • Like 5
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Update on progress,

Figured with all the nice weather over the last few weeks I should push on with the trailer.

I've managed to get all the smaller items stripped, de-greased, blasted and repainted. 

Treated the wheels two new 600 x 16 tyres.

So we are ready to start the rebuild when the chassis frame comes back from the blasters. 

 

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  • Like 6
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Any spare time I have at the minute is spent on the 5Kv trailer, I’ve neglected the main restoration on the stores trailer. 
 

So I thought I would post some pictures of progress. 
 

Chassis has been sent to the blasters, returned, primed, few coats of top. 
 

New floor sourced, cut, thin coat primer, then welded on. 
 

So now onto fabricating the lockers. 

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  • Like 4
  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 1/19/2022 at 11:12 PM, Jerryjeeprichard said:

Can anyone help:- ?

I need to try an locate some of the brass latches, these would have been common on the generator trailers, welding trailers, maybe other vehicles of the period. 

I guess lots of these trailers will have been broken up for the wheels/hitches etc. 

I have four, although not in the best shape, another four will get me out of a fix, but eight in total would be fab. 

 

 

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I had to cast them for my Binned store trailer, 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/19/2022 at 9:09 AM, cordenj said:

Looking good Richard.

Have you been able to turn your central heating off yet up there?😆

Haha, not quite. Two days and back to rain, I can bottle some up, you’ll be needed it soon to water your garden.. 🤣

Posted

I’ve been lucky enough to pick up some original brass latches for the lockers. Some of them were in poor condition. 
I’ve been pondering over what to do with them. 
Studying the castings they look to be salvageable. So a rebuild of the mechanism was the only option. 
Pictures of progress so far . 
 


 

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  • Like 3
Posted

You need to get that bowser filled and trundling south!

Considering repainting the Jeep in desert camo and 8th Army markings😀.

Catches look good. I've had to repair them in past with similar corrosion.

Posted

Have to say the rebuilding of the latches has been most satisfying. 
 

We’re now three down and another three to go. 
 

I’m still two latches short, (anyone got any of these kicking around)? 
 

Just need to blast / paint the latch rear covers. Then we’re ready to fit.. 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone with experience on the Hartford Shock Absorber? 
 

I have a few questions. 
 

I’ve split all mine down. Blasted and painted. 
 

I need to push in new rubbers and bushes? Very tight fit… how do they go in? 
 

Second question. The friction discs are asbestos. Should I re use these? 
I have a spare shock absorber that  has wooden friction discs? 


 

 

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Posted (edited)

Andre Hartfords:  I used the usual suspension rubber method on these.

Use a long threaded bolt or piece of studding to draw the lubed bush into the housing. Have a suitable sized socket placed the other side of housing, bolt/studding through socket and tighten nut up against it and  it will pull the bush into place.

 

I've found this method to be more controllable than a hydraulic press

Edited by cordenj
Posted (edited)

This evenings antics. 
 

Aim was to finish the locker catches. 
 

I had managed to locate 8 in total, unfortunately

2 were damaged (missing brass work) so not usable. Or so I thought. 
Bit of filling, some brass plate, and silver solder. 

Results speak to themselves. 

 

 


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Edited by Jerryjeeprichard
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Managed to grab a day on the trailer. 
 

New brake rods, fitted, adjusted. 

Shock absorbers, re-bushed, assembled and fitted. 

Electrics almost completed.
Managed to salvage enough original brass cable cleats off the remains of the other trailers. 

Really starting to take shape. 
 


 

 

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  • Like 4
Posted
8 hours ago, Jerryjeeprichard said:

 

Looking excellent Richard.

You even have the rare "parking socket" on the front chassis to stop the plug being left on the ground.

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Posted
11 minutes ago, Adrian Barrell said:

I don't think they are double filament bulbs, just twin contact where the current path is in one contact and out the other so not relying on the body to supply the earth return.

That's my take as well. I just wired my trailer up using twin cable that plugs into the jeep (British convoy light) taking both positive and negative to the trailer bulbs, no chassis earth

  • Like 1
Posted

That’s how I did my 10cwt GS as well, one circuit all the way round from the British trailer socket and back to it. The switch between axle floodlight and tail-light has sufficient terminals to permit this.

Posted

That makes complete sense, and inadvertently that’s how I’ve wired. 
In my mind I assumed each light fitting would take one electrical feed to the filament and one to the light bulb holder. 
 

Next question… I’ve looked through my extensive box of old car light bulbs. 6v. And not a single small bulb that will fit. 
Where do I go to find one. And what I’m I technically asking for….? 

Posted (edited)

AES  (Auto Electric Supplies) in Tenbury Wells, Worcs is your saviour 

small bayonet cap, dual contact, small or medium globe

BA15D is the right one I seem to recall, but double check

Available in 5 or 10 watt and 6v or 12v

 

 

Edited by simon king

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