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Bedford OXC


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Whats the Chilwell Census list, then,..Richard. ??

 

"Allocation by Central Census tanks & Vehicles of "B" Vehicle W.D. Numbers"

an official document from RAOC Central Ornanace Depot, Chilwell

up to and including 23rd Nov. 1944

 

This lists all B Veh. numbers from WD No. 1 (Impressed vehicles) to L6277385 ( FWD Lorry 4 ton 4x4 G/S ). It lists groups of census numbers allocated to Contract number and vehicle description.

Copies of this rare to find document are produced by Groucho Publishing ( no connection - no commission :-D .......yet )

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"Allocation by Central Census tanks & Vehicles of "B" Vehicle W.D. Numbers"

an official document from RAOC Central Ornanace Depot, Chilwell

up to and including 23rd Nov. 1944

 

This lists all B Veh. numbers from WD No. 1 (Impressed vehicles) to L6277385 ( FWD Lorry 4 ton 4x4 G/S ). It lists groups of census numbers allocated to Contract number and vehicle description.

Copies of this rare to find document are produced by Groucho Publishing ( no connection - no commission :-D .......yet )

 

 

 

Cheers, Mate. :)

 

All the best,

 

Andy

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well had some evenings in the garage and managed to

 

rebuild rear springs and fit back on the truck

run all new brake pipework and flexi pipes

rebuilt the engine

start stripping axles for blasting

halfway throph front springs

droped the motor and gearbox in the chassis

welded up brokem exhaust manifold

 

 

Baz

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Edited by Bodger Baz
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  • 3 weeks later...
Nice work Baz, just a couple of questions, is the engine solid mounted at the front or is the rubber bit not yet fitted?

 

What method did you use to weld the cast manifold?

 

The rubber mount bolts underneath the cross member so you cant see it from the top, it hads a metal sheild on top to protect it.

 

I welded the exhaust using supercast arc welding rods and a pleny of heat by way of a oxy acetylene torch to pre heat and post heat the area. it welded very nicely. i was vey happy as a replacment was not a bargain price!

 

Cheers

 

Baz

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  • 7 months later...

Well its been a while since i updated the blog (work work work)

 

I have managed to sneek a few hours in on the Bedford and got the following done

 

Mounted scammell coupling

rebuilt distributor and fitted electronic ignition

made the exhaust system (exits by drivers door)

stripped out the rear hubs and made all new wheel studs

made new front wheel studs

made all new wheel nuts!

found a full set of 10.50 x 16 tyres + extras :-)

fitted front tyres

rebuilt rear brakes, new cylinders

rebuilt master cylinder

rebuilt front brakes

grit blasted all the remaining bits

repaired the fuel tank

repaired the vacuum tank

repaired the trailer brake servo, a Dewandre vacuum servo, anybody got any?

 

The replacement cab has had major surgery as the seats need to be moved out by 2 inches to allow room for the extra levers in the cab, nearly all done now though.

 

making progress but slow going, next job is to get it running and fit the cab.

Bedford .jpg

Bedford 2.jpg

Bedford 3.jpg

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The rubber mount bolts underneath the cross member so you cant see it from the top, it hads a metal sheild on top to protect it.

 

I welded the exhaust using supercast arc welding rods and a pleny of heat by way of a oxy acetylene torch to pre heat and post heat the area. it welded very nicely. i was vey happy as a replacment was not a bargain price!

 

Cheers

 

Baz

 

Thanks for that reply Baz, I've only just seen it! I've used the chuck it in the Rayburn firebox for a bit, mig it then cool it in the oven method myself which works well.

 

Good progress on the Bedford looking good.

Edited by gritineye
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  • 5 months later...

Progress is being made on the old girl, will have some pics to prove soon

 

Bit disappointed with the cab we got from Pete Gaine, supposedly grit blasted and high build filler primered....seems to be more filler and primed than blasted, either that or they were very gentle and left the green paint behind!!! anyway to late to grumble now.

 

we had noticed a crack appearing on the rear of the cab where a patch had been welded (or so we thought) turns out it was soldered in and smothered in a ton of filler, unfortunately the solder did not cope with being touched and prodded and the patches fell out. so out with the welder and started to repair properly.

 

other jobs done

 

made new foot well floor pan

made new floor pans

repair some floor pans

fitted fuel tank

made new wooden mounts for vacuum tank

fitted all cab levers

fitted drivers seat base

recored radiator and fitted

 

i will take some pics this week, promise!

 

Baz

 

Baz

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Baz,

Bedford brakes are starting to become harder to get hold of. I needed one cylinder for the mw last year and the cheapest i could find was £100 for an original O type cylinder. In the end i had mine re-honed and resealed and luckily it took and i haven't had any leaks so far, finger crossed.

The j type Bedford wheel cylinder is the same apart from the bleed nipple is a different size to the banjo fitting, so they are handed, where as the o type can go on either side. The easiest way round it is to drill and tap the smaller hole to the bigger size and then you have a straight replacement. Or if you fitting a pair i don't think anyone would notice the nipple size. Bernie smith has some j type cylinders at £70 each last time i asked. If you want his number PM me, he's usually at stoneliegh. And the chap that re-honed mine has the J type ones , at £70 also, so i could pass his number on too, if you like.:-D

When i was looking for one john morter had some o type ones again at £125, but he wanted the old one back so he could have it re-sleeved. I did look into having my own done and i think i was near £100 to have them done, but I've heard some bad things about the re-sleeving since.

Edited by rippo
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Hello Baz,

Bedford brakes are starting to become harder to get hold of. I needed one cylinder for the mw last year and the cheapest i could find was £100 for an original O type cylinder. In the end i had mine re-honed and resealed and luckily it took and i havent had any leaks so far, finger crossed.

The j type bedford wheel cylinder is the same apart from the bleed nipple is a different size to the banjo fitting, so they are handed, where as the o type can go on either side. The easiest way round it is to drill and tap the smaller hole to the bigger size and then you have a straight replacement. Bernie smith has some j type cylinders at £70 each last time i asked. If you want his number PM me, he's usually at stoneliegh. And the chap that re-honed mine has the J type ones , at £70 also.

 

 

If you have old cylinders and the pipe inlet and bleeder hole are in good order, it is more economical to have them sleeved with Stainless Steel. I have had a great many cylinders done and never experienced any problems. Don't throw any old cylinders away, you may be able to reclaim them for yourself, or someone else.

 

For the Bedford Boys........I would suggest this as a way of getting over your MW cylinder problem. I would be surprised if the process is not available in NZ, there is a brake company in South Australia that does it.

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That's exactly what we are doing. Dad's making up a jig for mounting the cylinders in the lathe. We will then make up stainless or bronze sleeves and fit them in with loctite, and then machine the bores to size. We have about 12 rear cylinders and only one is able to fitted to a truck. Even this one needed a good hone. I replace seals as a matter of course, even if they are passable, I replace them. Seals are the cheap part. Bedford rear cylinders seem to be at a premium the world over? Maybe I should start making them? :readbook:

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