Diana and Jackie Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 A Question to those who have removed the gearbox on a Ferret Mk 2/3 (i.e. the turreted version). Have you managed to do it with an 8ft demountable gantry? I need to remove the gearbox on a Ferret and there's only 2ft clearance between the top if the turret and the bottom of an 8ft gantry, my guess with everything as short as it can be (short slings etc) it can be done, but can the gearbox be lifted out then with the same 8ft Gantry and clearing the top of the vehicle, which will of course have its turret removed by now? Diana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 post some pics of work in progress every one loves pics plus might spark some answers:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Hi Diana, You mention clearance with the gantry, but what is the hoist method? If it is a chainblock , then the depth of this has to be considered, unless it has a cable hoist drum on the side, then you should be OK, gearbox will not be a problem, but turret has 3 lifting points, we used a 3 leg wire strop and it lifted perfectly, but you might have to sling it a bit tighter to ensure clearance. Note when you lift the gearbox assy, it has to be rotated 180 degrees to come through the hull aperture. The hull was designed so that the gearbox just fits through there. This means you will have to make sure you have a swivel hook in you lifting gear. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 If your desperate you can do without the trolley jobby that runs on the girder. The old man fitted many a commercial boiler by strapping the pulley directly to the girder before Health and Safety came along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Silly question have you thought off making the gantry higher in some way ie blocks of wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Silly question have you thought off making the gantry higher in some way ie blocks of wood Then you would have to push the Ferret clear to lower the turret or gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Richard has made an important point about swiveling the gearbox, therefore a swivel has to be factored into the lifting arrangement. I had already though to raise the gantry off the ground further using concrete blocks. Using a wheeled gantry then the only way to shift the gearbox is to move the gantry out of the way on its wheels, which is not the correct thing to do but the only way to get the box away from the vehicle body? I belive moving a ferret is a difficult proposition without its engine? Diana Then you would have to push the Ferret clear to lower the turret or gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I had already though to raise the gantry off the ground further using concrete blocks. Using a wheeled gantry then the only way to shift the gearbox is to move the gantry out of the way on its wheels, which is not the correct thing to do but the only way to get the box away from the vehicle body? hi Diana, It depends on how sturdy the gantry is and how well it will move, also is the floor smooth. I have removed an engine on-site from a Stalwart and with a very high wheeled gantry that they had. you have to be aware of the weight up high and do it slowly. The Ferret will roll a bit easier if you ensure there is no wind up present, jack one wheel each side up to relieve it. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Richard has made an important point about swiveling the gearbox, therefore a swivel has to be factored into the lifting arrangement. I had already though to raise the gantry off the ground further using concrete blocks. Using a wheeled gantry then the only way to shift the gearbox is to move the gantry out of the way on its wheels, which is not the correct thing to do but the only way to get the box away from the vehicle body? I belive moving a ferret is a difficult proposition without its engine? Diana As Richard says its easier on a flat surface. I have removed an engine on my todd and pulled the Ferret forward on my todd as well as I didn't want to move the engine on the lifter as it was up to high and on a rough surface. A van should be able to move a Ferret from underneath the gantry. Or the other way is to grip a tyre low down and move the tyre in the direction you want to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Really good tips from both You and Richard which help in resolving a problem. The next difficult bit is the weather, since its to be done outdoors - and there's no tip available for British Weather!! As Richard says its easier on a flat surface. I have removed an engine on my todd and pulled the Ferret forward on my todd as well as I didn't want to move the engine on the lifter as it was up to high and on a rough surface. A van should be able to move a Ferret from underneath the gantry. Or the other way is to grip a tyre low down and move the tyre in the direction you want to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Hi Diana, Another point, if using the gantry outside, make sure the surface you will use it on is level, otherwise when you lift the load up high, it could tip the gantry as it will not be lifting straight. Just check and double check before doing anything if you are unsure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 It is very interesting when one exists in a parallel dimension separated by time as we do following your world by 5 hours. So here I am home from work with a cup of tea and some cookies (biscuits to you) reading the back and forth on this. The Ferret gearbox I would say is around 18 inches tall at the most. I can go measure one easily as C/S 31 is on a pallet in a dry shop right now. There will be zero wind up once the gearbox is removed. The Ferret will roll very easily on concrete. We have always found that griping the lugs of the tyres works well to get leverage. I agree with others that a weight up high is daunting, caution is obvious. No one has mentioned making extra height by removing the wheels and lowering the Ferret itself. If you are on a rough floor with a shop gantry or crane then some carefully cut plywood of a decent thickness ie 3/4" laid in strips ahead and under the path will ease your life. If you are really lucky steel plating is better. I'm wondering why the gearbox is coming out and when the engine last came out and is there an utility in taking the whole pack out the other way. Your first post on this is a little unclear as there appears to be a typo that makes things unclear "and there's only 2ft clearance between the top if the turret and the bottom of an 8ft gantry." The word "if" is what is messing my mind. The gearbox should occupy the same height or less than the turret did. If you use good common sense and a few good slings you will with cunning and guile be able to get the hook of the lifting device very close down to the gearbox. I wont tell you that it will happen the first time as it never happens that way, you will have to cheat every inch as you go. Others might take issue but we often use our heavy highway ratchet straps that have been binned from road use for nicks in the fabric in the shop. We often cut the defective part off and if enough remains it spends a few lifts in the shop until it gets too soiled or beat up. The ratchet strap allows you to draw the lift point right against the object. Would you like me to go measure our gearbox? That's my 2 cents worth, supper is up so "laters" R R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeferret Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Wonder if a person could remove all 4 tires and let bottom of chassis sit on wood beams as low as possible to allow critical distance from top to ceiling.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanS Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 A Question to those who have removed the gearbox on a Ferret Mk 2/3 (i.e. the turreted version). Have you managed to do it with an 8ft demountable gantry? I need to remove the gearbox on a Ferret and there's only 2ft clearance between the top if the turret and the bottom of an 8ft gantry, my guess with everything as short as it can be (short slings etc) it can be done, but can the gearbox be lifted out then with the same 8ft Gantry and clearing the top of the vehicle, which will of course have its turret removed by now? Diana Diana I had a Ferret many moons ago. It was a Mk1, with a turret added for the fun of it. I had gearbox issues and definitely wouldn't have even considered taking the gearbox out through the turret. Much too dangerous to have that weight swinging in the wind. My Advice is: 1/ remove the turret then take out the gearbox: 2/ HOWEVER, my best advice is to remove the gearbox AND the engine, "out the back", then remove the gearbox. More work, but MUCH safer. While you do it also gives you the ability to paint the engine bay/rear of cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 agreed taking whole unit out the back then splitting is best option then u can replace those impossible to reach brake lines and paint and clean engine bay:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 agreed taking whole unit out the back then splitting is best option then u can replace those impossible to reach brake lines and paint and clean engine bay:D Its a b off a job to remove everything your halfway there when you strip out all the tinwork for the gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 agreed taking whole unit out the back then splitting is best option then u can replace those impossible to reach brake lines and paint and clean engine bay:D Unless you are doing a full resto, there is no need to pull the whole lot out. Making more work for yourself. If there is an issue with flywheel or gearbox, it is an easy task just to remove the gearbox only. I have never known a time when we pulled the engine out as well, just to have a gearbox out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 replacing brake lines that are how old? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 replacing brake lines that are how old? Always an answer ...... well you might as well take the rear bevel boxes out while the engine is out, to check that the bevel gear is secure, you know how they are known to fail. I have renewed brake pipes with out taking engines or boxes out. Have you changed your pipes and brake hoses yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Always an answer ...... well you might as well take the rear bevel boxes out while the engine is out, to check that the bevel gear is secure, you know how they are known to fail. I have renewed brake pipes with out taking engines or boxes out. Have you changed your pipes and brake hoses yet? I did my brake pipes and hand brake cables with the engine and box in too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 Do you think it would be easier if I used my plasma cutter to cut a whopping big hole in the side of the ferret? then I could use an engine crane? It would save a lot of work!! agreed taking whole unit out the back then splitting is best option then u can replace those impossible to reach brake lines and paint and clean engine bay:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Here you go, as measured today. 17 inches. Hope it helps. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 i guess richard if you just answered every fsc question and we all doffed our caps in your direction it would be so much easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 diana fail to see how using a plasma cutter would facilitate engine /gearbox removal or were u being sarcastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Quite serious - less downtime :nut: diana fail to see how using a plasma cutter would facilitate engine /gearbox removal or were u being sarcastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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