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Ferret head gasket??


pigdog

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I noticed I'm getting weeping fluid at the head area. ( its hard to see in the pic). I figure first I should check the head bolts torque to see if that fixes it, but.....

I cant find a torque wrench that goes up to the 400 ft lbs needed. Is there another way??

Is a compression check the way to check the head gasket?

Also recently I'm getting black smoke on restarting a warm engine. I dont get the black smoke when I start it for the first time when the engine is cold. I dont use the choke. I use a spray of starter fluid when I start a cold engine and it starts right away. Warm engine takes some time before I get the engine started. I dont use fluid when Its warm.

Not sure if this is a problem.

Also anyone else get a pool of oil in the bottom of the engine bay? I cant figure where mine is coming from.

-Chris

1965 Ferret Mk 2/3 00 EC 55

 

 

 

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Is a compression check the way to check the head gasket?

 

Yes. Its good to routinely check so you have a base line for future comparisons.

 

The thing to be wary of is if the readings are down a bit & similar on 2 & 3 or 4 & 5 as the gasket isthmus is very narrow between these pairs of cylinders.

 

The other problem is that a socket will not seat onto the nuts on the exhaust side. The EMER & RR manual advise a box spanner & Tommy bat to tighten it. Not very scientific, depends on your muscles! I use a crows foot socket for these, the type that just extends around the far face of the nut to hold it in place.

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Chris

 

regarding the oil on the hull floor. There is a breather on the RH side of the engine (Plug side) that leads a breather pipe to the floor. Most likely the oily floor is through oil vapour from this, no EGR value in the 1950's :-)

 

I'm going to try and catch the oil deposit in some way as I am trying to minimise the oil in the bottom of the hull to keep things cleaner. I did buy a flame trap mesh insert for this breather as I had been told that this could minimise the oil escaping, however, mine already had it fitted.

 

MT

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Oil on the hull floor quick answer is to park it slightly uphill so that any oil drains to the rear of the vehicle.If you leave one of the bolts out in the hull access plates said oil will make its own way out. Another answer for oil on the hull floor is the breathers on the bevel boxes releasing oil when the bevel boxes get hot.

 

I seem to remember that it was suggested on the old FH site that cleaning the oil from under the engine could be done with a degreaser or kerosene. Engine cold if using kerosene

Edited by ferrettkitt
spelling mistake
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]53341[/ATTACH]Crap. Where the hell did I get 400 from? I think my brain is getting moldy. Will check them out.

 

wait I FOUND it: here

 

That looks like Rolls own manual, the Army manual, known as EMER, stated 40 ft/lbs for 6.4:1 compression head and 47 ft/lbs for 7.25:1 heads, this goes across the board on B40, B60, B80 and B81 engines.

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Not that your going to need it any time soon but if ever faced with high torques you can use a tool called a torque multiplier. Used in conjunction with a torque wrench. Used alot in heavy equipment, if you google it theres videos. My ferret started smoking recently too but all the time. Bad accel and economy diaphragms in my case.

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Wouldnt think the breather tube would spit out the amount of oil I have. I have the big oil pan under its rear to collect the dripping oil. Just a bit of a mess.

And thanks for the torque info.

 

Yes, sounds like its leaking from somewhere. Is it engine oil?

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