pigdog

Wouldnt think the breather tube would spit out the amount of oil I have. I have the big oil pan under its rear to collect the dripping oil. Just a bit of a mess. And thanks for the torque info.

Matt, I believe I just removed bolts. for the coupler. I had a hell of a time getting the belts on. Alot of cussing was involved.

Crap. Where the hell did I get 400 from? I think my brain is getting moldy. Will check them out. wait I FOUND it: here

I noticed I'm getting weeping fluid at the head area. ( its hard to see in the pic). I figure first I should check the head bolts torque to see if that fixes it, but..... I cant find a torque wrench that goes up to the 400 ft lbs needed. Is there another way?? Is a compression check the way to check the head gasket? Also recently I'm getting black smoke on restarting a warm engine. I dont get the black smoke when I start it for the first time when the engine is cold. I dont use the choke. I use a spray of starter fluid when I start a cold engine and it starts right away. Warm engine takes some time before I get the engine started. I dont use fluid when Its warm. Not sure if this is a problem. Also anyone else get a pool of oil in the bottom of the engine bay? I cant figure where mine is coming from. -Chris 1965 Ferret Mk 2/3 00 EC 55

is there anything on the Ferret that ISNT a swine of a job??? :-D I did my fan belt with fan still on. Check the pic here. I believe it was the coupler part that I removed. Did your Fuel cause you problems or was it a general overhaul? -Chris

Add both mine to the leaky mess list. Whenever I get brave enough to tackle them I will probably be needing help. Thanks for the pic posted. -Chris

I got some red hard fiber washers that are close. They seem to be thinner though. Is a fiber washer ok to use on a carb? I'm still searching. I actually won a NOS carb on Ebay but the seller wont ship to the US. New carb for $140. Thats the cost of a gasket kit for it. Rotten luck. I will be looking at copper also. Contacted the carb hospital in the UK and they couldnt help. Bob thanks for the offer on making washers. I will let you know if I come up empty.

I did a conversion and am still having no luck finding anything. I cant believe a stupid little washer is such a PITA trying to find. What the hell happens when I need to replace something rarer than a bloody washer?

Thought I would remove the main jets to clean some of the gum out, but after putting them back on I discovered the gum was sealing them so now they weep gas a bit. Looking to replace the washers and find they are aluminum and sized 11.1mm and 9.3mm. Where does one find replacements for these? Doing the internet search I'm comming up empty. Also I'm in the states so if anbody knows where to get them here would be good. ??? -Chris

I put a bid on it, but saw it went crazy. Any good info in it?

After owning the Ferret for a while now I would like to check in and see if I'm driving it correctly. I have been changing up to the next gear at around 3500 RPM's I hold the GCP down long enough for the RPM's to drop a bit then let it out. On changing down I wait till about 1500 RPM's and hold the GCP down, blip the gas to bring the RPM's up then let out the GCP. I wanted to know if this is correct. -Chris 1965 Mk 2/3 Ferret 00 EC 55

I have some QRIH decals for my ferret and need some advice putting them on. I figure once on they should be coated with a clear coat. The only experience I have with decals is putting them on plastic model kits as a kid, and that was a long time ago. And these decals are a bit larger. Thanks-Chris

magnets geez how daft can I be? wheel nuts retorqued thanks

How do I tell which ones are on my Mk 2/3 Ferret? I assumed they are steel with only alloy being on the Mk 4/5.

I believe its very common. I might have problems with mine that I need to look at. Where did you find replacments in the US? -Chris

Hmmm. I'll try and have the brakes applied while its up and see how well they work. Thanks-Chris

OK, so I jacked up both sides of the ferret before and after a drive. I turned the wheels and didnt notice any problem rotating. They didnt feel stuck before or after the drive. I did notice the back side of the wheel hub/backplate seemed a bit warm. The wheels that werent hot just felt cool to the touch. What would be causing the hub to heat up so much if it dodnt seem to be the brake dragging? Or could it be dragging during a drive but unstick when I stop? Should all the wheel cylinders be redone? Thanks-Chris

Wow that was fast! So most likely the brakes are rubbing? Will adjusting them by backing off a bit fix that? -Chris

After giving the visiting family all rides in the ferret I put my hand on the hubs and 2 were very hot. The front left and rear right were very hot. They all had oil in them and as far as I know the brakes are'nt dragging cuz I havent used the hand brake at all. What else would cause the hub to get so bloodly hot?? -Chris

THEY"RE ON!! Thanks again for the advice. It really helped to do the top pulley then the crank, last the generator. Also I kept the screwdriver in between the belt and pulley overnight which helped stretch it a bit. Boy what a job. Alot of bruises and sore fingers. Plus I increased my expletive vocabulary considerably -Chris

Ok, this is as far as Ive gotten with 1 belt. I cant believe what a pain this is. The belt is an Optibelt VB S=C plus 22x1250 C49. Its doc's says its about 51" long. I some how think I need a longer size.

Richard, Thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. Its my first ever fan belt change, so what might be obvious to most people on here are very helpful instructions to me. I will have another go today at wrestling the new belts on. I will watch out for my fingers, but its my toes that need to worry. I learned yesterday- Heavy objects + gravity + wearing flip flops dont mix :red: -Chris

After wrestling the ferret fan belts I finally got them off. Now the problem is how do I get the new ones on? I'm not sure if the ones that I bought are the correct size cuz they have NO slack to get them over the pullys. I have the generator adjusted all the way in, so I have no more slack I can add. Any tips? Thanks-Chris

I have some Hylomar that I use on the Harleys when I do an oil change. I will remove the job card and just use the Hylomar then. I want to remove the brake hub to look at the brakes, then put it back together. It makes me a little nervous with the wheel off and on jacks living in an earthquake zone. If I decide to take apart the steering can new seals/parts be bought for them or does one have to make new ones? Thanks for all the help and advice. -Chris

what actually is it? Does the lever break or come loose in the housing? I printed out the EME instructions on removal, but it seems a bit complex, and calls for special tools. Now what do I do? I'm gonna put the hub back together do I use silicone RTV around the inside edges to seal it from leaking oil? Thanks-Chris