01ec28

Does anyone else out there have a two lipped seal on their inner tracta hubs outer main seal? When I considered replacing it I found out its not what the manual shows or the supplier has? ( this was prior to my using the semifluid grease however. which I now love. no more car show cookie sheets for me) Cheers, Drew

If upgraded, did the original mk1s have the rear machine gun deflector(I can't see why they would?) and if it was an added turret are the deflector welds of the same era/ dimension, or quality as the factory? Maybe a way to tell? Drew

Excellent replies, thank you to all for clearing that up. Mine works perfect as original then!:laugh: Cheers, Drew

Can someone enlighten me as to why the circle on the site is so dim? In low light it isn't even visable. I had to restore mine due to water damage. Did they use radioactive paint in conjunctio with ambient light that has decayed?

Not to worry Robin, we're only talking about tire removal, nothing heavier! Having said that, if the math doesn't add up it wont be done. I'm not that crazy to risk my safety for expedience.

Thanks for all the feedback, think I'll do some math and rig something up! I'm thinking a cradled V on the rear of the turret to make use of the heavier mantlet as a counterweight. Cheers, Drew

Woa, that movie site is so cool!

I'll stick to the steel plate and grease method for now, it sure does work slick, pun intended. Maybe my guts telling me to get a reme recovery vehicle next. To the question on the movie, no I haven't been able to find out that movie yet but maybe someday I'll chance upon it in speaking with others. If I do I'll let you know as I still have your contact info. I did find ferrets painted up as german minitanks on THE DESERT RATS tv series with big floppy fake cannon barrels though. Last summer we took 01ec28 on a four hour run to a local car show. Great fun! Police only stopped us once as we entered a new region where they had not seen us before! As to the parts taking more space, now that you mention it, the transmission did seem to overrun the garage in last winters rebuild! What is meant by "little nylon slew ring wheelies"? Is that some sort of tool? Cheers, Drew

Yeah it was a stretch but our garden sheds a tardis, though not much larger on the inside.

Has anyone ever seen, heard of, or used their ferret mk2 turret to crane the spare or the wheels from their hubs? Just thought it may have been tried as a field fix? Also, ever notice how a toilet plunger mounted where the gun protrudes makes them look like a really mean, four wheeled DALEK? (DR Who 50th anniv after all.) Cheers, Drew

While I won't advise anyone to use non original lubricants, I am definately staying with this product. It is amazing. The fat that it can flow boggles me. On a 4 hr drive at 45mph in 35celcius temps the hubs were ok. They were a little hotter than the 90w hubs but I'll take the tradeoff. It wasn't like I couldn't keep my hand on the hub, but it was certainly warmer. Added bonus is it's helping strip the black grease that had been packed into the hubs.

my vehicle had a mod at some time where a two lip oil seal was installed. Not the best solution I fear. I've resorted to semifluid grease which I''ve had in for one summer season so far. Travelled 4 hours straight at 45mph and the hubs do get a little hotter but no leaks. (heat is due to fluid viscosity, not lack of lubrication.)

well, I bit the bullet and created a you tube account. If I did it all correctly here it is running at idle. Coincidentilly if anyone pics up some advice on how the motor is running I'm all ears. Of note was that I found the points were out of sync by 30 degrees! You should have heard the idle before. Been toying with the electronic ignition add I've heard about. Seeing the war and peace pics makes me want to fly over right now!!! Cheers

Hi all, just wanted to post a picture of what we did on our countries civic holiday. It worked realllly well and even stays upright at around 25 mph! Not sure if others have already done this. Of course we kept it rolled up in respect while not running the engine so it wouldn't hang upside down. It stands up at idle and really flat at any speeds. I have a breif vid if any are interested. I'll post it on youtube if I get any replies. Cheers, Drew;)

Well i'm reviving this thread. Recently I had a very near miss with a lack of oil in front left bevel box. Ivr done some further research on semi fluids. After speaking to imperial oil I've put mobilux ep 023 in to my steering and front bevels. Its really weird stuff. It pumps it flows into a blob.. bit it doesnt drip at all. On highway driving it ran appx 10 degree hotter than right side. Its based on a oil slightly heavier than 90 with ep additives ect. Interestingly the thicker product 004 uses a thinner oil but is much thicker. The extra temp will be from fluid friction. They use yhis product I mining machines. Had to order it at a local bulk oil station. So far its awsome stuff. Going on a 4hr trip next week and ill report back then. Cheers drew

well of course the circuit needs to be energized. this applies to volts or amps! The meter uses a shunt and to have an affect youd need to be looking at milli or microohms and that wasn't the issue here. Unless I misunderstood the poster, he had a concern that the voltage reading he was seeing was not true or accurate. remembering that voltage taken with a quality meter (near infinite resistance as in an oscilliscope) can mislead if there is carbon tracking or some other form of resistance in the circuit. Using amperage to see what is there or in this case not there, would have eliminated his doubt as to wether he had a high resistance circuit. Using amps is for process of elimination, obviously it wont point you to the problems location but it will tell you the degree of your issue. digital meters blowing up? In my profession we would coordinate fusing with a fused jumper(banana plugs do fit in fluke meters and likely many others you may use). You make sure this fuse is well under the 10A fuse of your meter and your fine. No need to blow the fuse in your digital meter, that ones for mistakes, not intentional circuit monitoring. if one is still determined to blow up a meter, it likely is not a very good meter and perhaps we are talking about two very different worlds of test equipment and experience. There are low impedance ohm settings on digitals now. Meters need a high impedance for voltage, particularly on isolated dc power systems in industry as these will typically have ground detection, one partial ground on the system and a low impedance meter equals inadvertant relay or device operations that can be extremely damaging. High currents? I dont suggest he use a 100a ductor on his wiring, he wasn't looking for microohms. Just my one cents worth.

just a mention that if you dont trust v reading remember that the meter can be placed in series and ma or amps can be monitored. this can help ferret out high resistance connections.suggest jumpering out straight from batt to coil to testrunning of motor. then as mentioned hunt for conn prob.remember there is also a conn strip next to breaker box in cab.take note that at least one set 9is internally jumpered ign if memory servs

I prefer the reliability centered maintenance approach. Otherwise I'd strip the ferret down to the last bolt, which isn't nescessary, and no, the task doesn't daunt me at all. It's about cost vs nescessity and time. There is a manual stateing differential splitting isn't nescessary (somewhere, wish I could find it now or I wouldn't have decided to post) and everything at this point shows the meshing and preloading is fine. Even a perfect appearing gear or shaft can have an invisible fracture that will fail in the future that can only be seen with dye tests, and I'm not about to go to that expense either. Breakdown is a risk with older vehicles and the beast know as metal fatigue can bite anywhere IMHO.

Hi again. Winter overhaul and restoration season has begun for me. I've pulled the transmission and I can't quite recall but I think I've read the brake bands can be changed without dismantleing the entire transfercase and differential? Can anyone confirm this? This vehicle had an overhaul in the 80S and everything feals tight. Sadly it was used in movies and the operator must have used the change pedal as a clutch and worn out the brake bands. If it's possible I'dlike to just pull the planetaries and replace the bands. None of the manuals I have specify anything less than a complete teardown? Cheers, Drew

Has anyone had problems with their oil pressure sender? From what I can see this is an engine pull situation. Problem is definately down there as it meters at 315 ohms from the cable to engine grnd. Could be a connection but I'm inclined to believe it's the switch. Anyone worked on these with motor in vehicle? Cheers, Drew

Think I'll be deflating my combat rims when I work on brakes from now on! Eye opener for me.

Well, after more research I'm definitely taking all your advice and sticking to the standard 90ep. Interestingly, the semifluid grease has a mineral oil viscosity of 100. It's really not all that thick, but the k loading is much lower than 90 weight gear oil. Seems this product is intended to string across slower gears spreading the lube before it contacts, but at high speeds it'll fling away, sigh, just like everyone suggests. I can admit when I'm wrong. I think I will however improve the filling fittings with some hydraulic quick couplers to make filling clean and easy. Thank you all for this discussion, Its helped educate me on greases and oils. I think a seal job may be in my future. Might try adding a little automatic transmission fluid first as this has seal modifiers to keep seals supple due to the high operating temps of automatic transmissions. Cheers, Drew

I had considered most all the ideas you have all replied with and thank you for replying. The product I was thinking of, nebula ep special made by mobil, used in mineing equipment gearboxes. Not particularly high speed gearboxes but it is a fluid state! From my reading it is a semifluid but on shear such as spurgears it takes on the viscosity of the base oil. If any of you have a chance google mobil semifluid grease nebula special. I'm calling the supplier in the next day or so and I'll post what I discover. Cheers, Drew

Has anyone tried using a semifluid grease such as Mobil Nebula ep 6f? I'm curious if it would lubricate outer reduction hubs as well without overheating? Drew

As a side note be sure the tappets are free and greased. my pedal was orig, rock hard too. the tappets were seized and the pistons seized. Removed them with a unf bolt drilled out with a grease nipple fitted and pumped the piston out with a grease gun. Good high pressures and it doesn't fly across the room. Also the vacuum cylinder should have oil in the vacuum chamber up to the base of the fill hole(oit's not a drain). this lubes the felt seal by wicking action and improves the vacuum seal.