ajmac Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 (edited) After being away from the forum for a bit I thought would pop up a few rather dull pics of the last few hours of work. I have been re-enthused by the posting of the Norwegian Loyd in original condition. The chassis still hasn't gone to the blasters as I keep finding things that need doing! As far as I can see the final FINAL part is mounting the gusset for the rear RHS out rigger, the gusset has an impact hole and was slightly distorted, requiring heating to re-shape. At the same time I repaired the drivers floor strenthening angle, I started on the other one too, but that got the better of me...... until next Sunday. Also managed to pick up a rare Cast Iron Detroit built Flathead distributor for restoration, it was in Lincolnshire, what luck. Edited February 28, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonnie_scott Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Alistair, well done for sticking with the work. Winter isn't an easy time to keep the motivation going. This is my favourite restoration blog just the sheer volume of work your doing astonishes me. I'm soooooo looking forward to the finished vehicle ;-) Cheers, Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joris Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I'm happy to hear that through other members restoration you find energy to continue the restoration, you are doing a fantastic job and keep it up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) Below is a photo of the 1942-45 Flathead distributor for the Detroit built motors (24 Stud), it is known as a 'Crab' distributor due to the shape of the cap. My rebuild unit doesn't have a cap but they are available NORS or Modern production. It is Cast Iron, although there were Aluminium versions too, I presume the CI versions were a wartime measure as the unit continued to me made until 1948 with a revised cap. It has the remains of Black paint, which makes sense, as the ford accessories were generally painted black at this time. Below is a manual view for comparison: You can see from the photo below that the Loyd had a Cast Iron version when it was recovered from the range. Edited March 2, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 hi alastair that engine looks pretty wasted did you manage to use anything off it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Not much Rick, Just a couple of con rods and the crank, oh flywheel and clutch pressure plate too. Err...think I got the sump plug:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) Before anything about the project please have a look at this link if you hevent already seen it, it shows a great Loyd TT original vehicle: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?29654-Hello-from-Norway Although I originally went to the farm to do the last bit of chassis work on the rear axle brace, I ended up doing some more dismantling of the second Loyd which I have never seen sitting upright! I need to remove the rear axle to use on the project but to get it off involves removing lots of other mangled metal. I didn't get too much removed before darkness closed in but as you can see I did find a large section of body and body supports crumpled under the back of the wreck. As yet I don't know what it is but there is a long rod with wing nut attached, possible to clamp down the 6 pdr tool box...could be post war Belgian mods, like the aluminium tread plate on the rear step. Also a great find as I now know how the body sheet steel was folded, appears to be one continous piece....don't fancy making that :shocked: Also stripped down the distributor for reconditioning, was in great condition inside. Edited March 4, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) Another item for the shelf, well nearly. I stripped the wartime ford flathead distributor down and gave it a thorough clean, the points were very old, with 'Made in USA - Holley' stamped on them. Capacitor is an old unit too with the original 'Ford' script on the case. I etch primed the case and then sprayed it satin black, all the parts were good enough to re-use except the rubber cover for the low tension stud. I still need a few things to finish, the cap clips and base plate clamp all need phosphating, the rubber vacuum o ring is missing and I need to find a brass knurled nut for the low tension terminal. Any one got a Crab distributor cap going spare? I am going to fit transisterised ignition inside the original huge anti radio interferance capacitor that sits next to the coil on the LH cylinder head. As such I have cut the capacitor terminal as I won't need it and the points will only be passing a few mA as a signal to the power transister. Edited March 4, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Any one got a Crab distributor cap going spare? I am going to fit transisterised ignition inside the original huge anti radio interferance capacitor . For a cap, try Mac's Auto Parts in the USA. Which type / brand of ignition are you going to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Which type / brand of ignition are you going to fit? Hanno, I am going to build one myself, I have done a couple before, one for a Land-Rover and one which went into an MGB, you can buy kits to solder up for about £10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I am going to build one myself, I have done a couple before, one for a Land-Rover and one which went into an MGB, you can buy kits to solder up for about £10. Interesting, can you tell us Ford Flatheaders more? Or are you selling complete drop-in conversions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Interesting, can you tell us Ford Flatheaders more?Or are you selling complete drop-in conversions? When it is all working and proven I can make you one if you want, I built the board yesterday, I don't collect my next flathead until the weather picks up and the old guy will clean out his workshop a bit, so until then I will put the bits on the shelf and continue later. Below is a terrible photo :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 When it is all working and proven I can make you one if you want, I built the board yesterday, I don't collect my next flathead until the weather picks up and the old guy will clean out his workshop a bit, so until then I will put the bits on the shelf and continue later. Below is a terrible photo :-( Thanks, keep us posted whem you have it up an running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Rebuilding the Flathead V8 starter motor over the last few days, on and off. Sadly I didn't take any photos of the state of it before I dismantled and cleaned down all the parts, it is on hold now as I wait for the free sand blasting cabinet to arrive during the week, thanks John! Once the casing has been blasted I can prime and paint it then reassemble the unit. Brushes have plenty of life left and the comutator cleaned up ok. While I had all the degreasing equipment out I cleaned up the front timing cover, it will go to the dip cleaners but I thought I should scrape off the 1/8" thick sludge on the inside. Yesterday I did battle with the engine block again to remove the corroded valve assemblies, I think I still have eight to go, and they are the WORST ones, it is one hell of a job. I have been using an air saw to cut through the valve stems then levered up the valves, this has then allowed me to drift the guide down into the vee. I have never had to work with an engine that was so sludge'd up, worn, corroded and unwilling to co-operate. Edited March 12, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 (edited) Working on the second Loyd today, it only needs the Farmer to be available with the forklift for me to complete the strip for usable parts, the rear x-tube is too big to move without the forks. Stripped the rear axle, lifted the chassis up and over to reveal the V8 engine, looks like a few bits will be usable from the gearbox etc... Axle clamps, axle and x-tube will all be used in the restoration, remaining parts will be scrapped, sadly :embarrassed: Edited March 17, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Good to see some men at work action shots as later people will say the elves did everything :-) you'll be grinning when the chassis is painted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redherring Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Nice length of track. Good track is getting scarce here as more people renovate Australian MG carriers. Though one renovator I know did manage to find enough NOS to almost completely retrack his Carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Nice length of track. Sadly it is all scrap, each link has worn right through to the track pin, it came with the carriers from the range, the wear kind of corrisponding with that of the sprockets:cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Curious how are they originally made ie are they cast or machined?Can the be weld repaired or fabricated by machining. If scarce I don't mind seeing if the guys over here can replicate as I been getting a few bits made up lately and the main cost is the material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Mike, Tracks were cast, from the research that I have seen there were a few variations of meterial spec, with the spec being downgraded during the war. Prewar they were Manganese Steel which has a high work hardenability, thus they have a good life in use, later the spec was changed to a form or Cast Iron with modified graphite flakes to increase the toughness, generally known as MCI, 'modified cast iron'. There were a number of wartime specs that went along with MCI for carrier track. I presume that during war the life of a vehicle was more likely to be cut short by enemy action than wear, also the track recovered from the range could well have been in use for 20 years before it ended up in on the range. Interestingly Universal Carrier (UC) track must have been in short supply in the Belgian Army post war as both of my Loyds had a random selection of UC and Windsor wheels, the track you see is Windsor track. All Loyds left the factory with UC wheels and track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Sadly it is all scrap, each link has worn right through to the track pin, it came with the carriers from the range, the wear kind of corrisponding with that of the sprockets:cry: It would o.k to use as vehicle decoration wouldn't it? Save good track for the vehicle and pass the rest onto other restorers who would like to dress the vehicle up a bit (waste not want not). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 It would o.k to use as vehicle decoration wouldn't it? Save good track for the vehicle and pass the rest onto other restorers who would like to dress the vehicle up a bit (waste not want not). Good point, I might brake it up into service lengths, it needs to be moved from outside at any rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 I went to a workshop that supplies idustrial track and they were saying they could make anything. Whether that was a boast or not, I have not testedI got a solid billet of aluminium machined to the same shape as the plastic gear stick cover and cost me 80 quid. Quite a complicated pieceanyway, good to see it all coming together bit by bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 don't scrap anything that could feasibly have some use, as you never know when it might be needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) As you will have seen many of the Loyd parts suffered damage on the range, I have just done some repairs to the parts which I will be needing over the next few months, photos below. The steering tiller was distorted on many levels, but now it is corrected it needs a section of damage replacing but that is for another day. You can also see the remote gear change base plate and the clutch pedal, I have a NOS circular rubber pad to screw on the end, but removing the broken bolt was a nightmare and it will need tapping out before the pad can be screwed in. Edited March 23, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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