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Antar back to the road


antarmike

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Okay, the Antar is dead. Clutch plates are located (subject to confirmation) but the flywheel, Pressure plate, and intermediate plate will all need facing/ Metal spraying/ facing, but first I have to get to them.

 

The choice was engine out or roll the gearbox back.

 

In an Antar both are major jobs. I had the Engine out 4 years ago, and I know that it is far from easy, so I have decided to draw the gearbox backwards.

 

This will mean taking out sections of the exhaust, big chunks of air braking, The lower half of one cross member, the first propshaft for a start.

 

Sarted work today and attacked the air braking pipes, and valves. Also got one end of the exhaust free.

 

But the Air-braking is a maze

antarclutch003.jpg

antarclutch005.jpg

antarclutch009.jpg

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I am going to have to decide how to move the gearbox back. The Manual says take out batteries and seats, lift cab floor, build a gantry in the cab, resting on the chassis. Use a chain block on a travelling block, and roll the gearbox back.

 

Plan b is a 3/4 ton capacity transmission jack

 

Plan c is something welded to a trolley jack nose.

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But the Air-braking is a maze

 

 

I wasn't looking forward to plumbing the Air brakes up on the Ward but I feel a whole lot better now I've seen that!!!

 

What a difference a few years makes to vehicle technology. Makes you wonder how they coped in the field in service. Surely a simpler system would have been better?

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Euclid dumptruck job is similar but a fair bit smaller. Doors both open, gantry built straight through cab and Tirfor winch to take weight of box. If girder is packed to steady forward/aft movement, box can be pulled back without risk of gantry toppling and damaging cab.

 

Why do they say pack the gantry off chassis rails I wonder? No doubt when on site, all is clear.....

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I am going to have to decide how to move the gearbox back. The Manual says take out batteries and seats, lift cab floor, build a gantry in the cab, resting on the chassis. Use a chain block on a travelling block, and roll the gearbox back.

 

Plan b is a 3/4 ton capacity transmission jack

 

Plan c is something welded to a trolley jack nose.

 

Mike,

 

Transmission jack sounds better option Mike. You can tilt them if needed, when refitting through a twin plate clutch you do not want to be pushing and shoving as it is easy to damage a clutch plate, then you get drag :shake:.

I used to use on on the 15 speed Fuller Roadrangers, made life easy.

Recollect setting up a gantry in the cab of a Martian gun tractor once, to change a transfer box.

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Sereious setback... The complete clutches I was chasing that Peter Court was supposed to have did exist until a month ago, when they were weighed in for scrap....I should have looked at the clutch earlier.....

 

All the likely scrap yards deny any knowlwdge, and they say scrap is moving so fast they would be in India or China now...

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I have been warned of metal spraying. Someone I know had it done on a clutch, and metal became detached in service. In theory I can skim all the wear faces by a total thickness equal to the removable packers, and assemble the clutch without these packers and I will in effect be positioning the release bearing in exactly the same place. This of course only gives me one clutch life, instead of two, but it will be a lot cheaper.

 

But Thanks for the offer. And I am sure not all metal sprayers do the same quality work, so maybe the poor sod who had the metal break away was just unlucky in which firm he chose.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have been warned of metal spraying....... I am sure not all metal sprayers do the same quality work, so maybe the poor sod who had the metal break away was just unlucky in which firm he chose.

 

You're probably right there. I had some 85mm dia. excavator boom pins done (through a third party) - lasted just a few days. Re-done properly, they saw the machine out (8 years). Perhaps a case of not enough pre-heating, especially with big stuff? I'd always consider it as an option, but would need to know the firm knew what they were doing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

antarblog001.jpg

Some of the airbraking out of the way, inter-gearbox prop shaft out, and the lower half of the cross member taken out. This lower section has to come out to drop the propshaft.

antarblog006.jpg

 

The gearbox will have to go back just over 12 inches. It can only do that if the output flange on the back of the gearbox is pulled from the output shaft. The flange is too big to go through the cutout in the cross member.

Edited by antarmike
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