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Antar back to the road


antarmike

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No pictures today, but the flywheel went on this morning, and was checked for run out with a DTI.

 

And I now have made (modified) the clutch aligning tool I used at the time of the engine change, into something a little more user friendly.

 

This afternoon has seen the locating ring, intermediate plate, two driven plates, and the Clutch cover go back onto the antar. Though not in that order!!

 

I want to run up the engine, to check the balance of this lot, before I lift the gearbox back into place.

 

I don't think there is any chance of the Clutch plates moving if I run the engine up, without the splines of the gearbox input shaft, going through them. The clutch should be under full pressure and hold them regardless, but there is a creeping doubt as to the wisdom of running the engine at this stage.

 

Oh and the interediate plate release stop screws have been adjusted and locked off.

 

Equally I don't want to put the gearbox back on and then find that Marton Dumpers have messed up the balancing...I think I will sleep on this one....

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Ive run alot of big engines up with no splines in the clutch plate (some of them just sat on the floor vibrating round the shed!) with no problems. However your clutch is a big old lump. Mabey a short run at low revs first and recheck alignment then build up to full chat in stages. If you have a balance problem its most likley to occur at a certain number of revs. Seems like a lot of work to pull the box out if it is bad:cry:

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Trouble is, i was stuck for space to get the clutch cover back on past the end of the aligning tool, so I cut the tool off, welded a nut on the end, and made up a screwed shaft to go back into it. When the cover went on I just had an inch of the tool, sticking beyond the rear friction plate. With the cover on the tool was 3 inches inside the clutch. I then screwed my threaded end back into the stub of a tool, and pulled it out.

 

As a result of the cutting welding etc, on the tool, I am not sure that is anything like balanced, which is why I want to leave it out of the equation.....

 

I also have a tool if I force it back in again, that could come apart as a withdraw it, and I would have to strip back again to get the parts out....

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Mmm:undecided:mmm..... See your problem.. Bit of a possible no win situation. Run the engine without the shaft in and risk having to strip the clutch out a re center it.. or put it all back together and find you truck falls to bits at full throttle and have to take it all to bits again.:embarrassed:

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Ran the engine up Sat morning, only to 1500, no vibration.

 

Gearbox went back onto bell-housing Sat afternoon, I couldn't manage a whole day today, as I promised to take down a tree for someone, but this afternoon, put Air assist clutch cyinder back on Chassis, set legths of rods, adjusted free pedal movement, and Clutch brake clearance.

 

I have lashed an air supply to the Clutch reaction valve, to test that all is working, and I have the first section of exhaust back on (Turbo, to rear engine of bell housing adaptor ring.

 

Clutch seems heavier than I remeber it but Air assist is definitely working. I am putting the extra effort to get the pedal down, being the result of the brand new pressure plate coil springs.

 

I hope to do a bit most nights this week, but that may be unrealistic.

 

I am averaging 10 1/4 hour days at the moment building chain trenchers. I have one almost finished ( no 17) and another one to build (no 18) then I have another batch of 4 or 5 to follow. Doesn't leave a lot of energy at the end of the day for Antaring.

 

clutch006.jpg

Edited by antarmike
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