antarmike Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 (edited) With this out it is clear one of the Exhust pipes running to the silencers has to go. Edited October 18, 2008 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 And I have just busted a 3/4" AF reversible ratchet combination Spanner (gearwrench) I had already used a breaker bar to get the bolt moving, and was only winding a Nyloc of the thread when the bludy thing broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Have you bought the high lift pallet truck specially for the job? Looks just the ticket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 I have a use for it afterwards so I thought it might be worth a try. really it is a bit too long. It has to be in the right place, too far forward and it will foul the Drag link and front Axle. Too far back and it will hit the Aux box before the input shaft is clear of the clutch release bearing support tube. I think there is aposition in the middle where it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Nice one Mike ! Thanks for posting , bet that prop took some lifting to ! :sweat: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 (edited) gravity helps getting it off. Putting it back on will be harder. The Gearbox rear flange came off without too much of a struggle this morning. Both exhaust pipes are off behind the Box too. Edited October 19, 2008 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 Now the gear selectors (which both sit on the Main Gearbox) and the selector shaft that runs between the boxes have to come off. A further setback has been found. The Clutch operating arm, that fits onto the Cross shaft through the bell housing has significant wear on the slines. Whether this is the splines on the shaft or the internal spline on the lever I don't know but some sort of fix will be required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 Gear levers came out without incident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 It is now clear that the Clutch Air cylinder and the reaction valve that controls it need to be removed before the gearbox can move backwards. The clutch operating arm lies just above the front spring shackle bolt. to the right of this is the air assisted clutch reaction valve.reaction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 That clutch operating mechanism looks a bit complicated! Glad it was a bit simpler on my Ward La France. What's the can of polish for next to the gear levers? Surely it's a bit early for shining things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 20, 2008 Author Share Posted October 20, 2008 I have the Air cylinder off now, and i think that the reaction valve can stay, now the airpipe and 90 degree elbow are off the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Glad to see steady progress. Errr are you keeping detailed pics of where all the bits came from, hope so, good luck and keep going with the pics ect. Great disassembly blog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 Photo's are as much for my information, as they are intended for the board...It should be pretty straightforward to work out where things go back, and so far I have only broken tools and seized nuts and bolts..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Have you ever got this involved under it as you are now, watch out for those HEAVY bits as well. Good luck with the pallet truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 I have changed to engine, that has been the biggest job so far. And it was knowing what was involved in that that led me to take the gearbox out to get to the clutch, rather than the engine. I am not sure I have saved any work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 (edited) Today I had an hour or two spare. Started to build up a frame to stop the gearbox toppling over on the pallet truck. The upright box sections are about 10mm from the gearbox and screws wind in to grip the box top and bottom. This should allow me to re-alighn the Adaptor plate with the studs as the gearbox goes back on. In a loosen one, tighten the opposite side kind of way. The front of the box sits on a screw thread, that opperates between the two front 50x50 box sections that span the pallet truck. This will allow me back and forth rocking to help with lining up again. I still have some more work to do on this arrangement The floor and bulkhead cover are out to get to the Bell housing/ adaptor bolts... I am a little concerned that the Selector shaft, coming out of the gearox selector cover is going to foul the Cross member when the gearbox rolls back a foot. I had planned to drop the box to the floor before removing the clutch. It now seems I will have to come out with the gearbox at the roll-back height. Note in the last shot just to the right and above the end of the Aux box selector shaft, a cross member/ floor support has been crudely gas-axed out. This I presume was done by Thorneycrofts themselves, when they went out to RAF Mildenhall to change the First gear, gearwheel, that had lost a trooth. If it was them who did it it was a warranty job, and it doesn't say much for the RAF sighning off the job that they accepted the Antar back into service with a floor support gas axed out and not replaced!!! Edited October 26, 2008 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Gearbox is out. Pallet truck did the job brilliantly. clutch release bearing is seized. (was fine last time I had it in my hands. Got good access to clutch, which is now off too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 One clutch plate is fooked but worse problem with the intermediate plate which is beyond repair, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 (edited) The intermediate plate has split radially anf sprung open, and this had jammed in the Clutch cover. The sharp edge of the split has ripped the lining off the driven plate, on the pressure plate side of the intermediate plate. the split is about 1/16" wide at the centre and 1/8" at the periphery of the plate. I am now in desperate need of one of these. Edited November 1, 2008 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Is there any other truck that uses the same intermediate plate or is it a visit to a machine shop to get one made? Doesn't look to complex to make so shouldn't cost the earth if you find the right man. Is the pressure plate O.K.? Take it you're dealing with nasty old asbestos dust from that failure given the age of the vehicle. :shake: At least it shouldn't be asbestos on the new linings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 I am still trying to find a plate, there are a few possibilities. I am talking to a comany that rebuilts Aveliong Barfords dump trucks, that use a twin 18 inch clutch, but haven't ruled out all hope of finding a good second hand one ex Antar. Old driven plates were asbestos. I have the option of relining these, but I have two ols "new" asbestos lined driven plates that I might use. The Asbestos linings are likely to outperform, and outlast thw asbestos free alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 For those amongst us who have not come across a twin plate clutch yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 The Antar uses a Meteorite engine ? would the driven plate be the same as the Meteor. My one has an intermediate dive plate but cant get at it to measure. I am sure the clutch discs are about 18 inches if my memory serves me right..... I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 My Antar uses a Rolls Royce C6T Turbocharged Straight sis diesel, but yes the early Antars with the Meteorite engine used basically the same clutch. I have tried to find a mark 1/11 Antar being broken, or anyone who might have spares but no joy yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) Heres the Meteorite clutch arrangement.....same intermediate plate... Edited November 3, 2008 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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