Rick W Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 The rest of you can talk among yourselves... Just been speaking to Mike (mikemids) about some issues he has been having with the Morris. I thought i could answer them easy enough, but not, so referred to the manual. Book no. 101/ML5A. Only to find I havent printed out the necessary bits and I dont know where the disc is! Mike has only been getting about 6 miles to the gallon on his C8, I would have expected about 12mpg. That seems a little excessive, even for a Morris! Could it be a carb overhaul is needed? very expensive option. He said he had been running it without an air filter as it wouldnt start with it fitted. I would say this would be the cause of the excessive fuel consumption unless anyone has any other ideas. If so, why wont it start with the air filter on? Anyone else come across this? The little red light stays on, on his switch panel, why? Mine has never lit up in its life. Lastly 4 wheel drive operation. Correct me if Im wrong, but Ive not had chance to delve in this yet as mine only drives in and out of the workshop! C8 is permanent 4wd in 1st and reverse from what I recall. The lever near the gearstick is the knock out lever to take it out of 4wd? Can someone explain the operation of this? PS Mike needs a copy of the 101?ML5a manual if anyone can volunteer him a copy. :tup:: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Is the air filter blocked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemids Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 i fiited the air filter as it came, it doesnt appear to be blocked? does the filter need to be dry or oiled? it ran for about 4 miles with filter on, then cut out, wouldnt restart until i took air filter off, now runs great but drinks fuel!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 It's running rich obviously. do you have auto vac or electric pump. If the pump is electric you can get to much pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 The rest of you can talk among yourselves...Mike has only been getting about 6 miles to the gallon on his C8, I would have expected about 12mpg. He said he had been running it without an air filter as it wouldnt start with it fitted. I would say this would be the cause of the excessive fuel consumption unless anyone has any other ideas. If so, why wont it start with the air filter on? Anyone else come across this? The little red light stays on, on his switch panel, why? Mine has never lit up in its life. Rick, I have been getting 14 mpg with my Bedford QL on a similar sized engine. Am I correct in thinking the air cleaner is in the cab, with a hose to the carb? Check that the inside of the hose is not collapsing, I have seen the inside layer seperate and be sucked in, not visible from outside of hose. re. your red light........have you checked to see if your bulb has not blown? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 Your right about the air cleaner being in the cab, and yes they can collapse on the inside. Mine which I have yet to put on, looks fine on the outside but is rotten internally. Maybe mine doesnt light up because its not completely wired up yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemids Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Hose is fine as its brand new... as for fuel pump, its a new old stock one which i fitted last week, original type that fits on side of engine, cant see how i'd restrict it? i presume excessive fuel consumption more to do no with air filter?? My red light stays on when engine running, could this be a slack fan belt causing probs with alternator or simply a dodgy alternator? oh and any answers about if the 4 wheel drive lever should be up to dissengage fronts wheels or locked into the lower position? cheers... :??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 is the oil level in the air cleaner correct? there is a mark for the level - but then again if you were drawing oil in you'd see it in the exhaust colour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemids Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 oil?? no there's no oil at all in the air filter.... i didnt know it was supposed to have any until Rick told me yesterday! which oil should i use? and does it sit in the actual air filter body itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 The mechanical fuel pump should be fine for fuel delivery, mine is NOS and is OK. There should be a mark, internally I think for the level of oil. Im guessing it should be a light oil, but stand to be corrected. I still reckon its to do with not running air filter therefore running too rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 I still reckon its to do with not running air filter therefore running too rich. Other way around I think and air cleaner usually has engine oil in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Standard 20/50 or whatever engine oil you run in the air filter DON't overfill. Make sure the choke is opening completlyand not sticking. give the whole thing a good squirt with carb cleaner aresol.If you have a freindly gagarge get an emission test done. Phil P crypton tuned his Dodge and get superb results so that might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 any answers about if the 4 wheel drive lever should be up to dissengage fronts wheels or locked into the lower position? with respect, if you're asking questions about the basic controls on a vehicle you own perhaps you should have bought the driver's handbook like we did as this answers all the questions you've asked 1131 - 100/ML 5A C8 15cwt GS/wireless/compr. driver's handbook (84 p.) £ 5.80 1132 - 101/ML C8 15cwt maintenance manual (196 p.) £ 11.50 http://www.milweb.net/go/groucho/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 If in doubt RTFM, politley, Refer to the flaming manual. The workshop manual is also available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemids Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 with respect, if you're asking questions about the basic controls on a vehicle you own perhaps you should have bought the driver's handbook like we did as this answers all the questions you've asked 1131 - 100/ML 5A C8 15cwt GS/wireless/compr. driver's handbook (84 p.) £ 5.80 1132 - 101/ML C8 15cwt maintenance manual (196 p.) £ 11.50 http://www.milweb.net/go/groucho/index.htm ok fair comment, but as a complete novice and this being my first ever historic vehicle.... i didnt even know the manuals were still available or where to source them, hence why i'm on here asking questions.... and the 3 morris owners i've asked, none know the answer? having only run the morris now for 1 trip ( 52 miles) i'm ironing out the problems.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 ok fair comment, but as a complete novice and this being my first ever historic vehicle.... i didnt even know the manuals were still available or where to source them, hence why i'm on here asking questions.... and the 3 morris owners i've asked, none know the answer? having only run the morris now for 1 trip ( 52 miles) i'm ironing out the problems.... No problem Mike you carry on with the Questions it's what the Forum is here for... Manuals don't have all the answers & aren't always correct so it does no harm to ask... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 No problem Mike you carry on with the Questions it's what the Forum is here for... Manuals don't have all the answers & aren't always correct so it does no harm to ask... Hi Mike, Inside the oil filter body which you gain access to by removing the retaining bolt in the center on the top, there is a filler mark. fill with engine oil to this mark. If you contact Jack, he has a copy of the Morris w/shop manual which I sent him so you should be able to download it, failing that, send me your address and I will mail you a copy. With regard to the ignition warning light, it should come on when you turn on the ignition and go out when you start the engine. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 I'll second Lee's comment, its what this forum is for, asking questions, even though they may seem quite stupid questions to ask to someone who has been involved with MVs for a long time. I dont pretend to know everything about MV's but I thought I knew a bit about the Morris. That is until I spoke to Mike... So keep the questions coming Mike, and lets see some photos, or email to me and I will post them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Hi Mike, Having just read my post again I see I have put oil filter whereas I should have written air filter. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemids Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 I'll second Lee's comment, its what this forum is for, asking questions, even though they may seem quite stupid questions to ask to someone who has been involved with MVs for a long time. I dont pretend to know everything about MV's but I thought I knew a bit about the Morris. That is until I spoke to Mike... So keep the questions coming Mike, and lets see some photos, or email to me and I will post them up. thanks guys, the help i'm getting is greatly appreciated as i'm afraid this is all new to me.. here are a few pics. The 1st and 2nd are how the morris was 2 owners ago. next is last owner (simon delaneys ) work. 4th is simon during my purchasing and colecting it. 5th is general condition of brakes! 6th starting to build GS rear body, i had to copy from close up pics i'd taken from others at variuos shows.. 7th body work 8th body done, yet another coat of paint. finally its first outing.... still got a few bits to do, finish front part of rear mudguards, markings, wipers, tow bar, brass i.d plates etc to cab. i've renewed all brake seals and rubbers, wired lights, indicators etc with cotton braided wiring, made rear body, had tanks repaired as they leaked, refitted and re-sealed windscreens, and several other things that kept me out of trouble for many many nights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 Youve done an amazing job on the rear body, congratulations. How did you cope with making the ironwork brackets and fixings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 you have done very well indeed ! nice to see its was saved and not broken up for spares for others . Hope you will be enjoying your Morris for many years and many miles of smiles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 you have done very well indeed ! nice to see its was saved and not broken up for spares for others . Hope you will be enjoying your Morris for many years and many miles of smiles I second that, jolly well done. :yay::yay::yay::clap::clap::clap: Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemids Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 (edited) THANKS! i bought long lengths of steel and cut them all to size and shape individually, they were simple but time consuming, the hinge pins you can buy from most steel suppliers for about £3 each. The iron work on the tail gate was the hardest part, a paid a blacksmith to curve the metal for me (£120), then i used 2 more hinge pins on each side to act as lugs for the looped steel to lock onto, i drilled them out to form a slot for the retaining pins to sit into, to hold the tail gate up against the body. everything was more time consuming than difficult really, all the holes for the bolts have to be pilot drilled, then drilled full size, all screw holes drilled then countersunk.... but it was all worth the effort! Edited August 16, 2008 by mikemids spelling error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 Thats a cracking bit of work. How did you attach the back body to the chassis? Johns sent me some pics of how his is done, would be interested to see how yours attaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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