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john fox

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  1. in one sense obviously a shame to see it broken, but without gearbox I have no idea why anyone would want the hull alone, unless they have a spare one of course (or are willing to "deal" with Helston). that said, the fact Bovvy let it go in the first place suggests they do not regard it as of "significant" national heritage, so if it will keep others running via parts breaking, so be it.
  2. thanks radiomike, now i understand what the thread is about, and lol we are going in circles as the earlier discussion has now been added to by this current thread's author... https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/10825-anyone-happen-to-own-srv-1-the-cricket/?tab=comments#comment-435041 great shame that "Minkey" apparently never did post up the info he said it would take a few days for him to collate. Seems like tracking down Graham "Minkey" would be worthwhile before the info vanishes.
  3. for ordinary use (daytime etc) the standard No17 periscope would be used as the night sight is only supposed to be used in daylight in an "emergency" the actual nightsight is: Periscope AVII L7A1 for training purposes only during daylight a special filter (the thing painted yellow) is fitted to the objective lens the drivers "leg armour" indicates your Ferret has received the mines counter measures upgrade. If your intention is to revert to Aden spec it should really be removed... along with the other work associated with that M suffix on your vehicle mark. (extra fire extinguishers for example). Kevin Brown is the expert on Aden ferrets and would be best place for advice if you want to be historically accurate. An expensive proposition as the most visible features would be: a) fit a complete Larkspur radio and intercom system as you have the fittings for Clansman - external visuals therefore would include replacing the antenna bases and reverting the B set antenna bracket to being the old, unarmoured, version. b) as you already hint at, that would also include reverting the drivers hatch to the original, non night sight version as of course that came much later. It would be a bit more than a paint job and a few decals !
  4. @gordonb thanks. never seen the squibs pictured before and fairly certain not in Ferret books as your picture shows them, so very useful as a frequent question at shows.
  5. appreciate this is an old thread, but hey ho. never call it a sand blaster then, as mentioned above, you won't make the mistake of using sand as the blast media as that is illegal, even in non commercial / hobby / personal use. (Short cut to silicosis and a slow death) Always call it grit blasting, then you will think to buy the right stuff: grit, not sand! attachments to a water pressure washer are, in my experience, rubbish. Too prone to clogging for obvious reasons.
  6. Hi richard As I have a 1979 production Fox, and as implied by responses on FB, could one "simply rely" on the fact I have a carb manufactured with the Marcus name on it, thereby implying it may be one of your "late" ones? Regards John
  7. the internals of the gearbox (Bands etc) are directly interchangeable Ferret/Fox The major difference with Fox is the physical size of the box's casing - it is larger and therefore mounting a Ferret one in Fox requires "adjustments"
  8. yes please, but only please do so if the merged account is associated with the email address registered for the "John Fox" account (I think part of the problem with the old account is it went to an email I may no longer have access to so we struggled to reset it)
  9. LOL, I guess you are reading Fox FB group as we type so you'll see I have relayed that message to him shame "we" couldn't get my old 00EC25 account to work again 😃 but no worries. I have obviously now recalled the password for this new account so am "back"
  10. digging up an old post as a Fox owner in Australia (who sadly is unable to open an HMVF account) has asked is there is a visual indication of whether such modifications have been done? Is there any other way to tell?
  11. I'm inclined to think you need to study the arc through which the door moves before making further "suggestions" as then it will make sense as to why all these door's mechanisms are made the same way. If the bend is not where it is as shown, the mechanism simply will not operate.
  12. OK, the dial on the meter itself says from 20mph level road so I'll keep an open mind for now
  13. OK, so I have purchased a Tapley (BM) meter. It is functional but is without instructions. Google finds threads from others saying its hard to find the instructions on how to set it up/ use it.. Can anyone help please? it is the "older model", ie version with two scales for stopping distance and % efficiency scales Also, and this really is a stupid question, what should the stopping distances of Ferret (Mks 1, 1/2, and 2) and CVRW Fox be?
  14. the bar is fitted the way it is because that is the only way it will work. Reversing it will cause a jam and possibly damage to what appears to be a garage that is being rented rather than being his own to destroy. When it opens, the door obviously moves through an arc, not a straight line, hence the bend to allow clearance for the arc the solution is to do what I did. Remove the bar and open and close the door manually. There is no alternative with an up and over door and that sort of electric opening mechanism. Hence I fitted a roller door on my other garage.
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