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Humber PIG Pictures


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If you need tyres, I still have a set of 1100 X 20 Dunlop Trakgrip runflats.Cheers Stan.

 

Stan I'm sure those could find a ready market. I always value a pig on the state of tyres, engine & axles. How are your run flats marked?

 

There were several types marked:

 

RF HS

RF L

RF REINFORCED

RF EXTRA REINFORCED

 

These were the two most common:

 

Dscf9573.jpg

 

 

Dscf9564.jpg

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Hi Chris, this is the box I stripped first gear from for my own Fox, first gear drum is there but cracked the pictures are on the Alvis site. It would be a good box for a rebuild as the case is complete and that is the hard bit to find. Looking for £200.

A lot cheaper than the £500 paid for it nine years ago. Speaking about the Alvis site have you seen my new project?.

 

Cheers Stan

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Stan,

I am very interested in the gearbox, I just need to work out a way of getting it here. Don't sell it just yet! I have one here which I bought as a good take out from a well known dealer, which also has that problem! I have seen your Saladin, it looks good, where do these Saladins keep turning up from?

 

Anyway enough hijacking of the Pig thread..

 

Chris

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The thing about the tyres is that:

 

The different types must not be mixed on the same axle.

 

Mk1 Pig can have any of the 4 types, provided above is observed.

 

Mk2 Pig must NOT use "RF HS"

 

Mk2 Pig, if 2 types are used:

The rear axle has type precedence over the front axle:

RF EXTRA REINFORCED

RF REINFORCED

RF L

 

Although I don't think I have ever seen "RF L" or "RF REINFORCED"

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Clive, i cant see what difference it makes.

 

Difference is that the Mk2 is 3,022Kg heavier than a Mk 1 & presumably the original tyres were not up to it. I assume the other types tried had their limitations but progressively stronger types were chosen. No doubt the degree of flexing of tyres of different construction would be disadvantageous to balance & steering if they were mixed on the same axle.

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so what do we do when all the reinforced tyres are worn out and there is no more second hand ones. i have a brand new extra reinforced tyre but the side wall has discintergrated.

 

Yes Adam it's a worry. The other point about the Mk 1 tyres is that now they are about 50 years old whereas some later tyres supplied for Mk 2 might be only 20 years old. I have 5 hardly worn Mk 2 tyres stored in a dry dark place.:cool2:

So hopefully will see me out.

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This was the one in the previous tender, guide price £3500. That's a lot of money when the gear stick wouldn't even move. It was a lot of work, we thought it was worth about £500. I wouldn't be surprised if it went unsold.

 

Chris

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As I removed all paint I found two weld marks at the driver door. There were squared areas of about 1" to 3" without paint beside. These marks are gone with sandblasting and new painting.

 

Roland I have only got side pics of the bracket. But perhaps the pic below will help. Presumably you have the box, then you can fabricate a holder with a flange to match up with the welds seen here.

 

DSCF9826.jpg

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hi gents. well i started to remove the rear axal., and run into trouble straight away. could not get the wheels off. broke every braeker bar i had, going to be a long job, gas axe tomorow that should make things easeir, and a happy xmas to you all

023.jpg

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Paul, what can't you get off? The brake drums? You'll need a good 3-way puller to shift them...have you remembered to put it in gear in 4WD - to engage gearbox on from axle AND remembered to release the handbrake. There is mechanical linkage to the wheel cylinders, it's not like Land Rover with a brake on the transmission.

 

If you are wanting to drop the whole rear axle assembly I have a wooden support plinth already made up you can have.

Edited by fv1609
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