andy1960 Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 Fantastic work....every day is a school day when you follow threads like yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 5/13/2021 at 8:37 AM, andy1960 said: Fantastic work....every day is a school day when you follow threads like yours. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share Posted May 16, 2021 Today has been a productive afternoon after a few errors made last week. Whilst reaming the new small end bush I took my eye of the ball and over sized the hole 🙈 After taking a few days to obtain a new bush I today replaced it and reamed the new one with much better results! The piston now fitted I popped the newly renovated and bored barrel on and started work on the timing gears. The engine has been a labour of love but I am really starting to feel I am getting somewhere now! It just seams that every part needs work or felting 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 That looks like a nice bush pulling tool Steve! I always end up with two sockets and a length of studding. I have got by with one of these wheel cylinder hones to relieve a bush that's a bit tight. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202490071774?epid=20017010302&hash=item2f25594ade:g:kvoAAOSwmtBbLQid Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Nice work Steve! and indeed a nice puller, I found one of these for magneto bearings, works a treat! Also something I always warn people about, to check the piston ring gap, sometimes when the cylinder is bored, and the right size for the piston, the rings are too tight, and when warm, it will seize the piston, have had it a couple of times that the machinist didn't check that! Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 I'd like to get one of those pullers! Lex did you see Rob Miller's Welbike post? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Yes, I saw it late last night, but been away all day, buying more bikes! Will see if I can answer tomorrow. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 What bikes? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 No, sorry, just one! and not me, but Tibo, ex BEF M20, saw use with the Germans, contract C5610, extremely nice running bike, I wouldn't mind one of these! Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share Posted May 16, 2021 3 hours ago, welbike said: Nice work Steve! and indeed a nice puller, I found one of these for magneto bearings, works a treat! Also something I always warn people about, to check the piston ring gap, sometimes when the cylinder is bored, and the right size for the piston, the rings are too tight, and when warm, it will seize the piston, have had it a couple of times that the machinist didn't check that! Lex Thanks Lex. When I had the barrel bored I proved the piston with rings fitted to ensure correct sizing, 🤞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share Posted May 16, 2021 Ron this is the puller I used.......very basic but it’s been a god send with this built, I would have been stumped without it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283828524240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Thanks Steve, I've ordered one! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 Hi All. So with all of this unpredictable weather a long weekends bike trip has been cancelled. This has given me some free time to really get stuck in and get the G3 towards the finish line. The engine build is advancing at a rate of knots with many components now fitted. Battery carrier now back on too complete with my home made strap nut and bolt. The original pushrods are past there best but I do have some later aluminium alternatives. Although slightly shorter there is plenty of adjustment to compensate for the shortfall in length but I am unsure if this is suitable? I hoped to be able to install the carb also but after buying a ‘freshly rebuild’ carb I quickly found out it’s in need of a full overhaul and many new part very disappointing! Next steps, clutch to go in and then order my next loads of parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Nice work! Some people tend to think, putting in new gaskets, makes the carb "overhauled" I am just getting a carb ready for my G3, as the one on it, the top thread is stripped, and the ring keeps coming off. I found a replacement body, so not too difficult. Lex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 This weather is very frustrating, I’ve been waiting weeks to put down some green paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Have we already discussed the G3 carb with its drip hole in the flange and not in the jet block?? I can't remember without looking back! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Indeed Chris. We were all looking forward to riding over to Sammy Millers today for our first jumble in nearly 18 months....But it's been canceled. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 Morning all! Yes we have discussed carbs before Ron......your totally right it has the drip hole in the flange. When I opened mine up to check it to my horror not even the slider would move up and down, the jet block has actually been slightly bent at some point and consequently pinching the slider 🙈 At this stage I don’t know if I can remedy it or whether it needs to be replaced... Ron I cannot quite make it out on the doc you have posted, which is the correct needle/length? Mine has no. 6 stamped in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Steve 6 is the standard needle. It should be in groove 3. I'll email you that document after brekkie anyway. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 Thanks Ron! Can I ask, what is the general consensus regarding the fitment of new clutch plates, should they be soaked in oil first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) The cork inserts need to be oiled, but I can't see anything that says to soak them, but it won't hurt to rub oil over them if they're new. However the modern inserts are friction material that will run in oil, but are best kept as dry as poss to my mind. Ron Edited May 23, 2021 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) Yes, I agree with Ron, but it also depends who the supplier of the plates is, and what material they are made off. Re. the carbs, I have found 2 numbers for the G3WO, 276B/1J and 276/400R, the last number is also a postwar M20 number, strange! And what is the exact difference in the jetblock? have some NOS ones, and like to fit the right one. Lex Edited May 23, 2021 by welbike spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) 276B/1J would be the assembled carb and 276/400R would be the base mixing chamber as a spare part. Interestingly the doc above says to take the 276/400R and drill the drip hole which is fine if you know that part is going to that bike. If you were a MT/REME fitter who needs to replace a body, how would you know? I wonder if that modification was listed in an EMER? It then says to mark/remark the body 276B/1J so the chances are, if you have one marked 400R, it was a MT/REME level replacement from generic stores. lots of invaluable info in that doc. Edited May 23, 2021 by Chris Hall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Steve the jet block can be distorted by heavy handed removal. A wooden or nylon drift as big as the carb body is best with the body being warmed up first to expand it. Too many heavy blows can belly the block out in the middle. Lex when Martyn had my carb, he simply tapped a brass plug in the blead hole in the jet block. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) Thanks Ron, I will check my jet blocks. I always boil the body in water for 10-15 minutes, then they will come out easily. Lex Edited May 23, 2021 by welbike spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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