Jump to content

Restoration 4 - Matchless G3 Panel Tank


Recommended Posts

G3L, has less fins on the top l/h side, and the pipe pushes in, so it's not that, but what and why, I don't know, is it not G80? larger bore, but same bolt pattern.

Cheers,

Lex

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 655
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Hi Ron, though I’d share with you an image of the original fuel tank, you can still see it attached to the fuel tap🙈😂

Hi All. After recently completing my James ML restoration idle hands set in again. I said to myself no more projects, but after the opportunity of an early Matchless G3 panel tank came up I

Oil tank on and newly renovated battery carrier fitted....slowly starting to look like a bike with the 8” headlamp. I am having a little trouble finding a 1” throttle barrel compatible with my tw

Posted Images

I've just been reminding myself. The G3 has an exhaust spout. G3L doesn't. Ron 

G3 Article 04.jpg

Edited by Ron
Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s certainly a strange head. I cannot seem to find any information about it, most other Matchless heads do no appear to have the exhaust spigot.

Small steps this week, the barrel has gone to the blasters, I have decided to have a go myself at repairing the broken fins.....😬

Now that the crank breather pipe has arrived and fitted I can start building up the drive side of the engine.

1845C8C8-E386-4C34-B74F-1B42131E6E5C.jpeg

612DEED6-8877-40D0-A8F2-FF9695D8B158.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

The barrel is now back from the blasters and there are several cooling fins to be repaired. I have started the process but it’s much harder than I anticipated....... 

I shall keep plodding on....here’s hoping.

5D98B387-E44D-4BCA-AD3A-92370E689348.jpeg

EFBAE979-5847-4B84-BB95-262918F3C477.jpeg

129DFF8E-EF7F-4223-A27C-736235ABC19A.jpeg

F9B8A2D9-616B-4B65-A021-45C7878F9498.jpeg

Edited by flyingfleasteve
Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried welding cast iron once and gave up. I think it’s a very specialised art form, controlled heating and cooling of your work and using the correct filler material is key. When I tried,  I pre heated it the Gas BBQ and very slowly cooled in the BBQ, but it didn’t really work to well and I had little hair line cracks around the fin, radiating beyond the original damage.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The two specialist guys I've used for cast iron fin repairs always braze the new piece on. However these two guys involve a lot of traveling, so I've had a couple repaired by an excellent local  fabrication guy (Phil) who simply TIG welded mild steel to the cast iron and defied me to snap them off without using serious force. 

What is it with such heavy handed people who can't remove a head or barrel without breaking fins off.

I managed to drop this NOS M20 head about 10 years ago, which broke about 5 fins. Phil repaired it with TIG.  I've just replaced it with another recently acquired NOS head, during my big bore piston fit.  Ron

DSCF3590.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going down the brazing route. But it takes a knack to get the heat into the metal and brazing rod. Once the braze is grinder back if it’s not adhered 100% it leaves a weak area and the job starts again. I have to say this barrel is abnormally damaged, but I will keep plodding away.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an old cylinder, that I use for knocking the fins off of, and then grind the pieces to size and MIG weld them just on the edges, still holding out after all these years, but the damage wasn't so severe as on Steve's barrel, I don't think it affects the cooling much, as the OHV design runs a lot cooler than a sidevalve.

Cheers,

Lex

22022011441.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have given it a good go, in the end after buying an expensive brazing touch I ended up welding the repairs, heating both the barrel and new section of metal both before and after. A few imperfections but pretty solid 🤞........time will tell but never again!

34C0EEB7-AE3B-4757-B93A-45E73C78B017.jpeg

8BFA6ED8-AB36-4443-8101-348FECAA7648.jpeg

5554E56D-78D6-4F29-8802-AB97B37D449D.jpeg

D9B9FDE1-5167-4CD5-81A5-46E7FF5806BA.jpeg

918ACA3C-BD53-4D27-8CC9-1A05E5DEBA58.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Steve. A bit more practice and we'll all have someone to send our broken barrels to😏 Is the metal ring inside the exhaust port a permanent fixture now?  Ron 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Ron

yes it is.

I thought long and hard about including it as I did not want to impede the exit of the gases but the repair is now belt and braces with hopefully 0 chance of leaking/ recurrence of damage. I polished back the inner section of the sleeved tube and took the step away which I hope will help 🤞

I was feeling creative yesterday, I also made this......

3764407E-2B59-433D-A451-595980988B0B.jpeg

53E6BED8-F5B8-4F28-865C-EB6FF09EC0AB.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I will have to refresh my memory about the battery carriers and fixings, as we learnt last year that there are differences between the G3 and G3L and I think I might need to swap mine as I think both mine arrived to me with each others carrier. ........ Purely by coincidence as the bikes came from totally different sources.   Ron 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it only took me 1/2 hour to gather tools, move the bikes and remove the battery trays.  

The difference can easily be seen at the tops. The G3L is reduced in width. Both will now have to be re-painted in their respective colours. 

Matchless didn't bother to change the part number for the modification?  Ron 

DSCF3709.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually don't know, but suspect AMC themselves, Norton BSA and RE had Lucas parts, but that came from a universal prewar system, they are stamped with Lucas, and a date code, albeit very faint.

Lex

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Ron said:

Well it only took me 1/2 hour to gather tools, move the bikes and remove the battery trays.  

The difference can easily be seen at the tops. The G3L is reduced in width. Both will now have to be re-painted in their respective colours. 

Matchless didn't bother to change the part number for the modification?  Ron 

DSCF3709.JPG

Different in height to Ron? 
I assume they accepted the same battery?

Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of advice folks.....

I have stripped the rocker cover down and noticed there one of the rocker arms had excess lateral movement. On closer inspection it appears the outer bush is worn and the arm has started rubbing the inner casing.

How easy are the bushes to remove and replace? I cannot see how to get any type of tool inside the bush to remove it?

 

9A92125C-12D0-4A03-8075-A1D6E7A483D9.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I can’t see from the photo the size and shape of the cover, but when a bush is fitted in a blind hole, the process is normally as follows. Heat the area around the bush and then bang the cover on a hard, flat surface so that inertia will force the bush out of the expanded aluminium. it only needs to come out a little to know that it will come out. If you get it moving, you can re-heat and go firm but gentle. No need to belt the crap out of it, it’s all in the technique.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...