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Restoration 4 - Matchless G3 Panel Tank


flyingfleasteve

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As promised, an update on the build.......

The barrel has now come back after boring and I treated myself to some more vapour blasting including cleaning up the head. I have run with the G3L rocker box as it’s tuck up under the tank but I still have the blind bushes to drift out (watch this space).

Forging forward many of the control cables are fitted and things are really starting to take shape.

I currently am having trouble getting the Gudgeon pin through the new small end bush but once rectify the barrel and piston can be fitted. 
 

The next steps are to get the the barrel on and the new valves lapped in and fitted......

 

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Steve the standards book for the exhaust stem to guide clearance is:-  At new = High.005"  Low .003" and .007" is acceptable at overhaul. The figures for the inlet are less with .005" acceptable at overhaul. Difficult to measure the bore of the guide without proper equipment. Usually you can tell by feeling the rock at the valve open position. Ideally there should be next to none.  Ron

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13 hours ago, Ron said:

Steve the standards book for the exhaust stem to guide clearance is:-  At new = High.005"  Low .003" and .007" is acceptable at overhaul. The figures for the inlet are less with .005" acceptable at overhaul. Difficult to measure the bore of the guide without proper equipment. Usually you can tell by feeling the rock at the valve open position. Ideally there should be next to none.  Ron

Thanks Ron, I am not going to take any chances, I will replace both of them. I am just considering doing it myself or sending it to the shop 🤔

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That’s Chris. I have now ordered a set of replacement valve stems, just to be belt and braces. I have decided to give it a go myself, nothing like learning in the job 🙈

My aim this weekend is to ream the small end bush so I can fit the piston and barrel. A few more hurdles but it’s all part of the challange!

 

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Hi all.

so my new valve guides and drift tools have arrived ready for replacement tomorrow. The new guides are in the freezer over night   in readiness.

Is it recommended to heat the head and current guides before removal? Or can I attempt knocking them out without heat? With the head being cast am I correct in thinking the guide and head will heat at a similar rate so adding heat for removal may not help?

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I haven't changed the guides in a long time, so can't remember but I think they did not have a ridge to stop them from going in too far? do you have the special spacer under the exhaust valve spring cup? there is a manual somewhere, that says, how far to press them in. Re. removal of the old ones, it might be better to machine them out untill wafer thin, and then just pull them out, or break them, then, no material from the head will be removed, and the new guides being too loose.

Lex

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A positive day today! 🙂

With some methodical workmanship I have now removed the old value guides and installed new ones. Valves now ground in and new valve springs fitted. 
Just some paint and the head is ready!

The head has seen some extensive work and I am very pleased with the end result. 

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Good Job Steve! Are the felts readily available, or did you just find something suitable? I can't remember what comes in a gasket set. As long as the stiffness can be overcome by the valve springs it will soon bed in. You might be able to bolt it to the head first and try the operation with a lever?  Ron

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Thanks Ron.

I am pleased with the end result. I purchased the felts from AMC classics. They are notoriously difficult to located into place so I removed one of each of the bushes, located the felt and pushed the bush back in..... I can move the arms by hand easy enough, just a bit stiff. Probably because I soaked the felts first.....

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