HWade Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Thank you for the information Gents, looks like thats another issue sorted, are keep you all informed as to how we get on with the hoops, and canvas. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex van de Wetering Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Howard, Good to see the rear body coming back to life. Excellent work! That Porta Power sure looks like a handy piece of kit for this sort of work. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hello Alex, yes that porta power makes light work of removing bends and dents, a very handy bit of kit. Yes the body is coming on well now. Hoping to get it back on the truck today, I need space in the paint booth to paint some other items. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Well I managed to get the body back on today, along with the sides made it made it a lot easier to paint the outside of the sides in position on the body.I also got the air compressor pressure gauge and filter fitted, and got to plumb it in to the compressor. A few pics as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Peter, going back to the hoops. Where the hoops slot into the upright poles, looks like there is some sort of knuckle. Do you know what stops the hoops jumping out of the knuckle or are they drilled with holes for a locking pin or bolt and nut. Thanks Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Peter, going back to the hoops. Where the hoops slot into the upright poles, looks like there is some sort of knuckle. Do you know what stops the hoops jumping out of the knuckle or are they drilled with holes for a locking pin or bolt and nut. Thanks Howard Howard, the hoops can be locked in either a low or high position. On 3-ton CMPs the hoops slide in sockets in the body uprights and can be locked in the high position by a pin - I'd say it works the same on this 30-cwt body.HTH,Hanno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Howard, HTH,Hanno Thanks for that. Howard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Another Item That I need to get are the canvas door tops, if some one has a couple for patterns that i could borrow to copy would be helpfull, or even an old pair I could buy and get recovered. Many Thanks Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Howard, HTH,Hanno Are you asking about the sockets on top of the upright legs Howard ? I've just had a look at the parts book and I can't see a pin listed you should be able to see the component parts and there relevant numbers in the photos I posted of the parts list. When I made the sockets for my sons C30 (then owned by Steve Stone) the sockets were plug welded in two places and ground back flush to the legs and the top hoops then slotted into them, the weight of the canvas (which is considerable) holds everything together. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Hello Peter, thanks for getting back to me, It just bothered me because there is a pic of the same body as mine with the hoops and no canvas, with troops in the back. I would have thought the hoops may bounce out of the knuckle without a holding pin. I can certainly agree on the canvas holding them down. Just seeing that pic made me think. Thanks Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Hello Peter, thanks for getting back to me, It just bothered me because there is a pic of the same body as mine with the hoops and no canvas, with troops in the back. I would have thought the hoops may bounce out of the knuckle without a holding pin. I can certainly agree on the canvas holding them down. Just seeing that pic made me think. Thanks Howard I know what you mean, but there is a degree of flex in the top bow that exerts an outward force on the socket and it seems to hold everything together just like frame tent poles I suppose. From memory I made the sockets about 2" deep and they need to be a push fit not too sloppy. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Hello Peter, thanks for that. Think we will go for that then. Dont suppose you have any old door tops floating around. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 (edited) Hello Peter, thanks for that. Think we will go for that then. Dont suppose you have any old door tops floating around. Howard No sorry Howard mine went with my C15A when I sold it. My son has a set on the C30 I will be back in England next month so if you can wait I can get some photos with a tape measure on them if it's any use. We had several sets of door curtains and full canvas including the windscreen flaps rad muffs and curtain bags for the cabs made by Undercover Covers (I'm not sure if they are still trading from original patterns) and an excellent job they were too. Pete Just found them here's the link http://www.undercovercovers.co.uk/photos_ex_military.html Edited April 14, 2016 by Pete Ashby added link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Hello Peter, thanks for that rest assured if I get stuck are be in touch I want to crack on with them if I can. Thanks Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well managed to get more done for the chevrolet, the tool boxes are now painted and fitted to the underside of the body. Doors have been painted and to be fitted. Got to make some frame work for new door tops and get the canvas fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 If any body can help I am after one of the bakerlite switchs that screw on the rear cross member for the small convoy light. Many Thanks Howard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 More work carried out on the C60S. I have also had the Hoops made, along with the poles and sockets,a big thank you to Adrian for making the Hoops. WE collected them today, got them prepped and painted in primer. Top coat may be tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Howard , I think your Chevrolet has a switch on the dash for the convoy light , My 11 cab does , later 13 cab Chev`s have a dip switch in the chassis on the right hand rear wheel arch . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Nice job Howard Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 In my gun tractors there is a switch of the convoy light on the chassis right hand side chassis frame, it is a metal one similar to the one found in floor on old cars. Ang great work the Chevy is getting so pretty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Hello There, thanks for all those kind words, the switch for the convoy light on this what remained of it was on the back chassis rail, or would that have been for trailer lights, I know there was a socket of sorts but they were pretty rotten. If any body out there has any parts for this please let me know. I have fitted the two rubber rear lights but they only take a single filament bulb, so I need another pair of rubber rear lights for the brake lights. Indicators I will use some small discreet rubberlite ones if i can get some. Thanks. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 The same trick was done on my Ford and it has a small set of britax or Rubbolite indikators front, back and side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Hello Niels, Thats a nice looking truck, you made a nice job of that. Well I have managed to get some drab on the hoops and tubes this morning, are apply a few more coats later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Well I sorted out the rear brake lights and indicators today. I firstly fitted a junction box on the rear rail then fixed on the brackets for the lights, they were then wired in. I also bonded the body to the chassis for a good earth, as well as an earth in the junction box. Also got the poles and hoops fitted.Here are a Couple of pics, are take some better ones when I get the truck outside. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I can not take credit for the restoration of the ford, that was done a number of years ago by Anthony Sudds, It holds up very well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.