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Pete Ashby

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Pete Ashby last won the day on July 23

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About Pete Ashby

  • Birthday 01/01/1901

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    Small holder and restorer

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  1. I remember that WC42 in Mains very well it stood with several Dodge Ambulances in front of which were several Weapons Carriers one of which is still on the regular show circuit today. When I first saw the panel van around 1976 it was reasonably complete the rear had a lot of Dodge spares in it at that time. As time went by weather and various yard sort outs took it tole until it finally collapsed into the nettles. Pete
  2. Just a word to the wise, be wary of pouring cold water in any quantity over hot castings like your manifolds for example. The sudden thermal shock may well cause distortion or even cracking of the cast. Much better to wet a rag and wrap it round the pump, or fuel lines, or carb then remember to remove it before trying to restart the engine as you don't want the rag getting picked up by fan. Pete
  3. To be serious for a moment Robert raises an interesting point, one despite my flippant response that is worthy of discussion. It calls into focus issues that form fundamental reasons for what I have spent my life doing, I hope people will engage with this discussion I'll wait to see what others have to say first before I add my two penny worth I have some strongly held views on the matter. LarryH57 has a point the tide is against us I fear with the current political desire of Western Governments to be seen to be taking action. Pete
  4. Your right with regard to the restart providing it is vaporization you are suffering from then when everything cools down the problem goes away. Fuel pumps will not pump vapour either in the feed line or the pump chamber so that's problem 1. Problem 2 occurs with heat soak from the exhaust system via the inlet manifold and then into the carburetor this problem usually occurs after the engine has been shut down then restart attempted within a short time period. Fuel in the float bowl will expand and possibly boil. The net result here is this pushes raw fuel through the various power circuits then dribble into the inlet manifold where it forms varpour which the ignition system cannot ignite due to the wrong oxygen to fuel ratio ( 14.7 to 1 as a rule of thumb). This is why after a lot of cranking with the throttle held fully open providing your battery is up to it, the engine will if your lucky, couch into sluggish reluctant life accompanied by clouds of black smoke made up of virtually raw fuel issuing out of the tail pipe. Couple this with the vaporization in the fuel pump and or feed lines and it's not looking good for that rapid get away from the pub car park in front of the gathered admiring crowd of onlookers. Your last point about how did these trucks operate in desert conditions is an interesting one and one that I have asked myself too. It falls under the same set of discussions to my mind that center around the 6 volt vs 12 volt discussions that rumble around on any WW2 truck forum, camp fire or beer tent you choose to visit. My take on this is if it didn't work then in nearly six years of war time operation carried out by the two largest automotive nations in the world it would have been changed pretty dam quickly. This can be seen in a number of different spheres of military automotive design during the war. All very interesting but it hasn't addressed your question. For what it's worth my thoughts on your direct question are as follows: 1 Equipment was all factory new and by this I mean everything that goes to make up the vehicle. 2 Petrol was of a different octane rating without all the go faster cheaper additives that come as standard from the pump now . 3 There were a number of actions taken by troops in the field to alleviate some of the issues, from the simple act of wrapping a rag around the fuel pump then having a bod sit on the wing to keep dripping water on it (not really practical on a jaunt to Tesco's these days) to taking the engine covers off and throwing them away ( not very good for the resale value of your vehicle), this is before we get onto fabricating overflow tanks out of 2 gallon cans ect. Pete
  5. Robert with the deepest of respect take a deep breath and go and sit in the shade old friend Best regards Pete
  6. Give these people a try https://www.castironwelding.co.uk/ Pete
  7. After the diversion of fitting some of the smaller tasty items it was back to the heavy duty stuff once again. The left front wheel, hub and back plate were removed, cleaned, painted and put aside to harden off. While the wheel was off it gave clear access to the frame and road spring under the cab, which was also cleaned primed and repainted. The tyre was removed from the rim and then the rim cleaned (see previous posts), painted, and put aside for the paint to cure. A delve into the back recesses of the storage shelves turned up the front brake shoes and hangers that had been cleaned painted and stored away probably over twenty years ago. Another poke about found the retracting springs, bottom adjuster and the top bi-sector unit these needed to be disassembled cleaned and reassembled in the same manner as with the rear units described in a previous post about the back axels. With the back plate painted it was refitted and the brake gear added. The hub was next, wheel bearings were checked and repacked with fresh grease and then adjusted for end float. The left hand thread wheel nuts were fished out of the molasses bath after several months of soaking washed off then cleaned up, etch primed then top coated Now it was the turn of the brake drum, this is a roughcast affair with the working surfaces machined smooth. The drum is super quality steel so although it looks in poor condition in the first photo a bit of time with the wire wheel on the grinder brought up the working surfaces to bright steel and then it was my usual painting sequence when dry it was fitted and the shoe contact adjusted. At the start Work in progress Etch primed Gloss black undercoat Top coat and fitted While I was waiting for the paint to harden off I trial fitted the left hand wing those who have followed this epic story of snail pace restoration will recall my efforts to restore the wings I intend to finish grinding down the welds and get the wing preped finished and bolted on over the next month or so. Time for tea and biscuits I'm thinking. Pete
  8. Over the last month I’ve focused attention on the Leyland and continued the theme of getting stuff out of boxes and drawers and off shelves and onto the truck so this post is all about small stuff getting bolted on. The large and imposing radiator carries the maker’s nameplate at the top and the model type at the bottom both were missing from this truck. However, some years ago now I was lucky enough to have been loaned an original of both plates so that I could make silicon molds and cast resin replicas these were stored away awaiting a call to duty and some twenty years later here they are fitted. While at the front of the cab I decided it was time to fit the side lights. I bought these in an auto jumble back in the mists of time so they were dug out, given the treatment and fitted. A small advance in the scheme of things but the truck begins to look a bit more complete with every item bolted on now. in one of the posts in this blog I described how I went about making a replica Volkes air filter housing. Well it’s time had come so that got bolted on as well. Last but least for this post is the Clayton Dewandre air tank and gauge for the tyre pump, it's yet to be plumbed in to the pto driven pump but at least it’s on the truck and out of a storage drawer. More to follow Pete
  9. That is a very fine looking truck Keith looks like you have the oil pressure issues sorted. Pete
  10. Welcome Vince you'll find this a very friendly site to be part of. The key to getting a good response to a question here or on any forum for that matter is to think about the header you put on the post a lot of us are on multiple forums across the web either as regular contributors or there to learn and ask questions. The result for me at least is I tend to skim read the headers to pick up anything of interest before I open the post it's not being elitist it's purely just a time thing. As to the right place to post it can often be best to first use the search function on any of the forums and if that doesn't turn up anything useful start a new topic in the most appropriate section. Good luck with the project and remember there is never a silly question
  11. Thank you pleased your enjoying the blog. I try to make them a bit chatty and on occasion pass on the odd nugget of information picked up along the road of collecting and restoring MV's for just a little short of 50 years now, I'm not professionally trained but every one learns from their mistakes I was once told (I'm fairly certain they lied as if that was the case I'd be the worlds authority by now). As for getting the truck on the road there's a bit more to do yet but every job is another bite at the Elephant, although I have to say that some of the projects waiting their turn are beginning to look more like Woolly Mammoths ! Pete
  12. Just an observation Keith on your last photo, you may wish to put a rubber grommet on your oil gauge line where it passes through the bulkhead. A combination of vibration and chaffing could end up with no oil pressure and a nasty mess to clear up regards Pete
  13. As Gordon says above treat it as a three speed box with additional crawler gear in first. Many years ago now I did a conversion for a customer on a Carryall where he wanted a higher road speed so he provided a set of power wagon difs with higher ratio than the war time WC ones. It completely changed the characteristics of the truck using first was now a necessity at junctions lights and roundabouts and as you have found 1st to 2nd is a long pull without much road speed to keep the truck moving. However it added about 10 mph to the cursing speed in top but was a night mare on hills as it ran out of puff in top very quickly and then it was foot to the floor in 3rd all the way up hovering over the stick waiting to pull second on occasions something on a stock WC that is only required when climbing a mountain.. The foot note to this is the customer was very happy with the result as he was moving to the Fenlands no hills and long flat roads. Pete
  14. Firstly sorry hear of your Fathers passing but well done you for taking the truck on, so many get sold on by family in double quick time these days. To address your question, the numbers you quote sound just fine for an engine with some miles on it Gordon's advice is worth following perhaps before the winter lay up. Otherwise enjoy the rare truck you now own drive it with the respect that a vehicle of it's age requires and it will last a life time. Pete
  15. Well done chaps keep at it, every unit and nut and bolt cleaned and re fitted to the frame is another positive step towards the completed project. Pete
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