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Chevrolet C60s


HWade

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Tank is ready and waiting for you Howard just say when your man's coming. When I did my 12 cab I was fortunate to have rolls of black bituminous cork strip that I bought from Wally Wheatly (Nordian) years ago. The cork strip was for 13 cabs the 12's and late 11's seem to use bituminous cork, rubber, and bituminous canvas strip early 11's appear to be all rubber.

 

If the joints are sealed as per factory the cabs are fairly squeak and rattle proof if the strip isn't used the squeaking/grinding creaking will drive you mad :nut:

 

I took the asbestos motor linings out, made new staples from wire fitted them and bent them over so that from the cab it looked correct then impact bonded modern high insulation board to the inside of the panels. I can't now remember the name something like 'Asbestos Lux' it's used in boilers and cookers it's the correct thickness looks like the original and more importantly stops you cooking in the cab and burning your self on the engine side covers.

 

Nice job Howard look forward to seeing the finished job

 

Pete

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Tank is ready and waiting for you Howard just say when your man's coming. When I did my 12 cab I was fortunate to have rolls of black bituminous cork strip that I bought from Wally Wheatly (Nordian) years ago. The cork strip was for 13 cabs the 12's and late 11's seem to use bituminous cork, rubber, and bituminous canvas strip early 11's appear to be all rubber.

 

If the joints are sealed as per factory the cabs are fairly squeak and rattle proof if the strip isn't used the squeaking/grinding creaking will drive you mad :nut:

 

I took the asbestos motor linings out, made new staples from wire fitted them and bent them over so that from the cab it looked correct then impact bonded modern high insulation board to the inside of the panels. I can't now remember the name something like 'Asbestos Lux' it's used in boilers and cookers it's the correct thickness looks like the original and more importantly stops you cooking in the cab and burning your self on the engine side covers.

 

Nice job Howard look forward to seeing the finished job

 

Pete

NORDIAN... great company ...had a few great days out down there !
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Hello Pete, yes the anti sqeak on this one looks like it was bituminous, some of it also had like a piped edge that you could see on the outside of the bodywork, a bit like piping. I think i can get the piping type from Walker Rubber, not sure about the other just wonder weather a good sealant would do the same job what do you think, or some thin rubber strip with a smear of silicone to hold it in place. Always open to other suggestions. I will be installing brake pipes this week and fitting the master cylinder. Thanks Howard

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Try these people http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ I've used them a lot over the years. I think you'll find something close to the bonnet side panel bead and tape among their extensive range.

 

I wouldn't use sealants as they may cause problems with the paint finish, canvas or webbing strip is best Supper glued on and the bolt holes pushed through with a scribe.

 

Pete

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I collected the refurbished brakes today,and I have made a start fitting the brakes. I have also got the drive shaft fitted between the gear box and the transfer box. I also got some more tinwork blasted and painted. heres a few more pics.

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Hi

 

Your last photo shows why it is so hard to find brake parts for Chevy CMPs they have FORD brakes. This drove me crazy when I restored my first CMP, knew that the brakes were standard parts but could not find them in any Chevy parts books. It was not until I cleaned the grease of the shoes to see the FORD label. Of course that was long before we had the internet as a resource.

 

Greatly enjoy following your progress.

 

Cheers Phil

Edited by CMP-Phil
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Started to fit up the other front brake cylinder, this morning and as the pics will show, a small fork lug is missing from one side of the cylinder. dont suppose any one has one kicking around. Bloody annoying as they were all there when i sent them away. Oh the joys of restoration. Thanks.

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Hi Guys all sorted now thanks, Managed to get one made. Well I have got more done Ive got the copper brake lines made up and fitted on the chassis rail. Also gotI have also got the battery box fitted along with getting the fuel tank cleaned and primed. All brake cylinders and wheel stations are now built. Just got to source two new banjo bolts for the rear.I also bought a new 6 volt battery. Also got the new hard wood blockers for the seat runners to bolt to, still got to mark out and drill the holes, I did get the wood painted though.Heres a few more pics.

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Well thanks for all the kind words, well more work on the chevrolet has been done today, I managed to get some blasting done on a few parts even though it was raining, also got these items prepped and primed. I also managed to get some of the anti squeak rubber strip fitted, I also fitted a new piece of rubber that is held in place around the hand brake. Excuse the rivets they still need painting. I also removed the air intakes from the front panel before they were blasted. The Radiator has been sent off to have a new core fitted. Hope to have this back next week. I also got the radiator support frame blasted and primed. Well I think thats about it. Howard. A few pics as always.

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Well a little bit more done today, not so much as I had a delivery in from the USA, another nut and bolt restoration, but thats another blog. I managed to get some of the items in primer top coated in drab, I also got some more anti squeak fitted and some panels. Howard

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Well Rain stopped play on another blasting job so I managed to get more done the chevrolet. I managed to get the worst of the dent out of the passenger side wing and this was blasted in the container out of the rain, also got other various smaller items blasted.These were then all painted in red oxide. I was hoping to fix up more panels but I am waiting for my dome head screws to come in I got them in stainless steel, as i did the cup washers. I picked up a new 6 volt battery, I also got the rear prop shaft back on. Also got a smaller panel fitted. Just waiting for the call to say the radiator is ready then i can pick it up. a few more pics. Howard

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well a bit more achieved today. I fitted the battery cables and also stripped and cleaned the control box, i also blasted the cover in the cabinet. I also stripped down the dash panel, removed the gauges and blasted the panel and coated the inside in white to help reflect the back lights. The bezel could do with a rechrome, but you can get a replacement for $45 so i may go down that route. I also got the other front wing top coated as well as some of the other remaining tin work. The tin work on this truck just seems never ending, but I can see the finish I think. Howard

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Well I got some of the dash back together, I have decided to send off for a new chrome bezel, just think it will finish it off. I have also made a start fitting the heat shield on the engine bay panels. Ive also started plumbing in the fuel line. Thats it for now. Howard

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Hi

 

Did you set the odometer to the number of miles when you got it or reset it? Over the years I've done both, now wish I'd always taken the time to reset replacement Odometers to cumulative total so that it would be reading the true life history mileage. Now I've sort of lost track of mileage on two of the trucks.

 

Great work love watching your progress, wish I was making the same progress on my current project.

 

Here is the only way I can try to match your progress, with time lapse photos

 

Cheers Phil

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Well the other fuel tank turned up today, many thanks Peter. The tank will be blasted and repaired but will only be used as a dummy tank. Ive done a bit more got the fuel line in and mounted the other fuel tank, thats about it for now.

Howard

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