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  • Location
    New Hampshire, USA
  • Interests
    CMPs - Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles
  • Occupation
    Retired Business Consultant
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  1. Hi. I think (hope) we are a long way from this, reason I say this that the they have been exploring electric conversion for large trucks were the are using the entire engine compartment for a replace/swap battery pack. The problem has been really poor range 500-600 kilometers on a charge. My bet is that the pressure to get old cars off the road will come in the form of changing the gasoline to the point were it will not work with carburetors. My backup plan has been to convert to propane. Having said this, electric cars can be fun. My brother started building solar and battery powered vehicles more than 25 years ago. He built an electric hill climb racer that was an absolute hoot to drive. Cheers Phil
  2. WATCH OUT THIS MAY BE A SCAM- The generator and trailer shown in the first link is my M5, it is not for sale. If photo is being use for informational purpose I hope the text makes that clear. One day later- The photo in the link was quickly changed, so it was being used for informational purposes, thank you to original poster for making that change. My reason for calling attention to use of photos of other peoples for sale ads is obvious.
  3. Hi Gary Your post is in British Vehicle thread, but the tire sizes you mention might also be found on CMPs. So a little more info on what your guestion is and for what vehicle might help. Also is your need for basically for display purpose, or are you looking for used but road worthy tires, or military looking tires that will fit? Good luck on your hunt. Cheers Phil
  4. Hi If you go with concrete be sure you let it cure fully before you drive anything heavy. Cure time depending on mix and temperature will be in the 28 day range. Cheers Phil
  5. Hi Howard The flat head that I'm working with is heavier than the one you are probably dealing with so my solution was heavier than the standard rear mounting plate version you see. I added an adjustable front swivel. Working on Ford flat heads there are a number of things that you really don't want to have the engine swivel around the axes of the crank but rather fore and aft. The work stands are shown in some of the Ford Lincoln Manuals so here is my copy. Hope this is of help or at least of interest. Cheers Phil
  6. Hi Howard Are you looking to buy a pre-made one or make one? Also engine stand is a rather broad term, covering everything from rotatory one use for assemble work or test stand. I've built a number of engine test stands for running in engines. They work so nice that I have built several of them to store spare engines on. They are designed originally for Chevy Straight Six but also designed the same stand to take a Ford Flat Head Engine. Take a look around on my web page and you will find various information on test stand, assembly rotary stand, and heavy engine hoist bar for working around CMPs. Here are the plans and more information http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Engine Test Stand.htm Youtube of engine testing
  7. Hi Been enjoying your Clark restoration project, over the year there have been a number of these at our MV Summer Rally in Weare, New Hampshire USA https://youtu.be/5-qDwFGbvsQ Here is a drivers eyes view of driving a Clark Dozer around the file. Cheers Phil
  8. Hi Steve Thanks for sharing, hope others will follow and post their MV photos for the year. Cheers Phil
  9. Hi Definitely NOT 337 Ford flathead, I've got two 337 cu in Ford flat head in my shop right now and there are just to many noticeable differences. But is definitely an interesting engine. Thanks for starting the thread. Cheers Phil
  10. Propane conversion, many old petrol engines are likely candidate's for conversion to Propane. Cheers Phil
  11. Hi Bob You asked: Knowing nothing about these tools my thoughts are: are they worth the money in terms of making life easier when doing a restoration? are right angle impact wrenches effective? would I be better off buying a less expensive right angle wrench and also buying a normal impact wrench as well? what budget would I be looking at for any of these options to ensure I bought something that would work and not be a source of frustration? have I missed something that would be a better option? I'll start by saying I've been playing with restoring military vehicles for something like 45 years, from that perspective one bit of advice protect your ears and eyes. Now to respond to your questions; 1. Yes they are worth the money, I have regular 1/2 air impact moderately expensive still using the same one I bought 40 years ago. You will be able to get bolts off with out breaking them that you will never get off with a regular wrench. 2-3 I have gone through 2 inexpensive right angle impact (nut spinners) they do wear out but they will save you a hell of a lot of time, as you can get them on to bolts or nuts that you will never get a regular impact. 4. The impact wrenches are the inexpensive part of the deal it is the air compressor. But with both the compressor and the impact you can start in expressively work your way up. For about 10 years I used two small air compressors hooked together to get more volume. Both of them were used when I got them. The one air tool type that I have found not to go in expensive on is sanding equipment they just don't last as in some of them will not last through one project. On air sanding tools I go professional grade I've got one orbital air sander which is now 50 years old and still in use. The combination orbital rotary seem to have the shortest life. After going through 3 of them on warranty the store stopped replacing them and gave me my money back (basically said go away) 5. As to other options for impact wrenches there are a lot of electric/battery powered ones out there but I don't have any. Cheers Phil
  12. Hi Transmissions have individual personalities, I have 3 CMPs all of them have the same 4 speed crash box transmissions, and each of them shift differently particularly shifting down through the gears. The pause as you move to neutral, the throttle blip, then the move to the next gear lower. Some of the problem I think comes not from the transmission but from the carburetor how quickly does the engine pick up. One of my trucks doesn't like the cold and won't shift right until the transmission is warmed up, shifts up Ok but won't shift down easily until 10 or more miles. As others have said if you are used to driving sycromesh transmission you will tend try and shift to quickly. Read the manual for the shift speeds put a little dot on glass of the speedometer. Did this when I was teaching my kids how to drive the trucks. There is also a driver relearning each spring after not having the trucks out on the road for several months. Cheers Phil
  13. Hi What type of canvas were you using? Was it new or old stock? I've had problems making canvas covers for generators, modern canvas just not as good as canvas from 50 years ago. Have had the same problems making seat covers for my MVs until I went over to using Dupont Cordura fabric which seems to have much better wear and sun rot characteristics. I made a penthouse cover like you show which has stood up well but my.truck is garaged and I remove the penthouse fly when not in use. Wonder how boat canvas would work? Will be interested to hear what you find. Cheers Phil
  14. Hi If the temperature gauge you were testing is brand new, when you dip the end in boiling water it should read 100 C or 212 F but if it doesn't, try dipping the sender end in cool water then back into boiling back and forth a few times. I've had one of these direct tube type where the gauge just needed to loosen up. But more important do the same with any new thermostat. With a thermometer, kitchen type, in a pot of the water heat the new thermostat and watch as it opens and at what temperature. I've had 140, 160, and 180 F new thermostats not open for the first time until the water was at a rolling boil. Once they have been cycled from 100 F to 212 F a couple of times they start opening and closing much faster. More important they should open at their rates temperature. Having thermostat in old or new engine is particularly important if they vehicle doesn't get driven enough to drive the condensation out the engine and the oil. Cheers Phil
  15. Hi Peter Perhaps to widen the stance of the vehicle, to improve cross slope performance. It would take some measurements and calculations to see if there would have be a meaningful change to resisting side roll over. Or might it have been the result of changing tire profile for better traction? Cheers Phil
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