ArtistsRifles Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 OOOH!!!! And a 5 bearing lump to boot!!! :-D :-D :-D Thanks Lee!!! Now on watch to see how it goes....... Failing to get that - will have a look at lot 569/570 from Withams as per Chris's suggestion.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poptopshed Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 will have a look at lot 569/570 from Withams Would be wary of any engine from Withams, i know of several people now who have been disapointed with Landrover and jag engines. They would need a good look over as they are sold as seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Take outs from Withams will without doubt have a problem, why else would they have been taken out? Recon in the box engines shouldn't be a problem though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 Chris, Guide price on the Witham tender list is £650 - is that really what they gor for there or Withams being hopefull????? Right now - fingers crossed the eBay one comes off!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poptopshed Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Recon engines on the frame have been found to almost thrown together. One example on 2.5na was a timing case fully assembled, including water pump ect and the belt tensioner was loose inside. Another had water in the bores and badly rusted yet looked as good as new on the outside on its re-build frame. Its just a case of buyer beware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 1, 2007 Author Share Posted July 1, 2007 OOOH!!!! And a 5 bearing lump to boot!!! :-D :-D :-D Thanks Lee!!! Now on watch to see how it goes....... Failing to get that - will have a look at lot 569/570 from Withams as per Chris's suggestion.... YES!!!!! :-D :-D :-D We have a replacement 5 bearing lump for the princely sum of £90 care of eBay!! Just need to collect it and fit it then we are in business!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Neil Its been 3 days now have you got the engine fitted, is it a runner and will it be a War and Peace. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 4, 2007 Author Share Posted July 4, 2007 Hold the horses sunshine!!!! Op. Engine Retreival was completed today as was Op Borrow Engine Hoist From Stuart. Op. Fit The Engine is scheduled for tomorrow - given the weight of both engine and hoist coupled to me having to haul them both single handedly - the Landie will likely make W&P but my back probably won't!!! :-) :-) :-) I assume starter motor, Genny etc are all interchangeable between 3 and 5 bearing lumps??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Neil, The only differences are between 12 and 24V engines, and even then the blocks are the same, you can just swap the bits. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 4, 2007 Author Share Posted July 4, 2007 Thanks Chris! Going to be a busy day tomorrow. At least the Met office reckon it should be a dry day..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 5 hours in and all thats left now are the bell housing bolts, fuel line, clutch slave and starter leads. (Note to self - bouts of claustrophobia coupled with getting arm wedged whislt under the Landie do NOT mix... :shake: :shake:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian2b Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 5 hours in and all thats left now are the bell housing bolts, fuel line, clutch slave and starter leads. (Note to self - bouts of claustrophobia coupled with getting arm wedged whislt under the Landie do NOT mix... :shake: :shake:) Very well done Neil :clap: So looks good for war and peace show then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardyferret Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Neil congrats, if anyone deserves to get to WP you do for perseverance :-D Looking at pic you posted of 'new' engine are you sure it's a 5 bearing as it appears to have a separate oil filler tube, and I couldn't make out any x ribs on the block common to a 5 bearing?? 3 bearing lumps are still tough though :-D Regards Hardyferret :banana: :banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Yep, praise where praise is due mate, you will get it done I am sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 Thanks folks...... However - after 13 hrs work rain has stopped play - I've got the old engine out and laid up beside the drive wall, Weber carb, starter and generator are off and in the garage. Tomorrow - weather permitting - it will be a case of getting the new engine out of the trailer and then trying to line it up and fit onto the gear box. Going to be an absolute pig of a job single handed as not only do I have to line the input shaft up - but all the damned bell housing studs as well. NOT looking forwards to that one...... Bit embarrassed right now at taking 13 hours just to get the engine out - for the old Saab V4 I can swap an engine in 4 hours... :oops: :oops: Jerry - haven't looked for the "X" ribs - what I used as a guide was the oil filler cap. From dim & distant memory 3 bearing lumps had the domed cap whilst the 5 bearing had the flat "rad cap" style. Whatever - as long as it's running by tomorrow night I'll be happy - 3 or 5 bearing - whatever!! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poptopshed Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 A trick to get the bell housing studs to line up is to replace a couple with lengths of all thread, then locate these and use them as guides to line up the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 Thanks for that one - alas no time to get the necessary studding right now (I absolutely HATE working to a tight deadline). As of this posting I've got the replacement engine sitting swinging in rope slngs more or less in place - but can I get the damn thing to line up and slide back? Can I hell!!!! :cry: :cry: I need to be in two seperate places at the same time to maintain alignment & slide her back and right now its just not working.. So I've stopped for a brew, a sarnie and a spell of banging head on wall in frustration !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 OK - now officially freaked out... :schocked: :schocked: :schocked: Engine dropped onto the mounts OK - everything lines up connection wise inc. exhaust - BUT - there is a gap between the engine and gearbox bellhousings of about 0.5", slightly wider at the bottom than the top. I've tried everything I know to get the gap to line up and close but as of 21:00 Hrs there's no change. Right now there is a jack under the engine side of the bell housing supporting it and I'm damned if I know where to go from here.......... :oops: :oops: First time I've hand to change an engine where there are two halves to the bell housing and one half has a lip on the inside..... :cry: :cry: :cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Engine dropped onto the mounts OK - everything lines up connection wise inc. exhaust - BUT - there is a gap between the engine and gearbox bellhousings of about 0.5", slightly wider at the bottom than the top. I've tried everything I know to get the gap to line up Neil, Normally, you leave the front rubber mounts out, that allows the engine to be manouvered in to the gearbox without interference. My guess is that the first motion shaft is trying to enter the spigot bearing. For this it has to be dead square. You could try putting the gearbox back in neutral and turning the engine over, but first try and lift or support the rear of the engine as well as having a jack under the gearbox. This may allow it to self align, what ever you do do not try to pull in with nuts, just screw them on enough that the engine does not slip out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 Thanks Richard. I guess what didn't help was the wheels of the hoist kept sinking into the tarmac on the drive so all movement was done by levering the hoist with wooden blocks :oops: There is a jack under the engine right now, I'll nick the scissor jack out of either the Saab or the Exploder either tomorrow or Sunday (might be booked for pegging out duties at Beltring tomorrow) and see it that will help. Did have a quick try at turning her over by hand with the starting handle tonight but no joy - felt like she was locked solid. Worrying thought right now is maybe I've already damaged the first motion shaft?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Worrying thought right now is maybe I've already damaged the first motion shaft?? Neil, Doubtful, unless you have tried to close the gap by tightening the nuts. What you have to watch is distorting the drive plate by getting the whole lot out of line, this ends up with a dragging clutch if not careful. Might see you tomorrow if you are marking out! Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 Missed you by 10 minutes apparently Richard. Sorry about that!!! Got back from marking out today (after raiding Argos for our daughter - another horror story!) and put a scissor-jack under the gearbox side of the bell housing. That seems to be lifting the entire vehicle up as the jack under the engines side came loose. I'm wondering - would a prybar used in the top aperture help? Or would I be better trying to lift the lump off the engine mounts so the engine can actually move a bit?? Have to be honest here - normally I enjoy working on vehicles and getting up to my armpits in grease solving problems - but this has been the job from hell and I'm beginning to hate that vehicle right now :oops: :oops: :oops: Neil, Doubtful, unless you have tried to close the gap by tightening the nuts. What you have to watch is distorting the drive plate by getting the whole lot out of line, this ends up with a dragging clutch if not careful. Might see you tomorrow if you are marking out! Richard I hope I haven't done the drive plate - but if it comes to it there is a perfectly good clutch assembly on the lump that came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Missed you by 10 minutes apparently Richard. Sorry about that!!! Or would I be better trying to lift the lump off the engine mounts so the engine can actually move a bit?? Hi Neil, I was hoping to peg out our site and get away quick, but it ended up with meeting several old friends, so was a bit late getting away from there. Sorry I missed you, will catch up next week. I feel sure the mountings may be restricting you by not allowing the front of the engine to drop a little, this would cause a wider gap at bottom on bell housing. Another thought that just occured, is the clutch plate aligned with the spigot bearing? With a gap of only around half inch, then it is the shaft not entering the bearing. Thought you might have been working on the Rover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 No Problems Richard - you've seen where little Maud is parked - I won't be too far from her :-D I'll be down there from Sunday week. Needed a day off today as a break as the Landie is giving me nightmares.... I'll have a go tomorrow at undoing the engine mounts and then see if I can lift the lump off and lower with them removed. As far as I know, as I say, the plate is aligned as it came out of a running motor. Really do not want to have to pull the lump out again as getting it in was such a royal pain in the ass due to the crap driveway surface. :shake: :shake: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Neil, Sorry, I missed your comment on the previous post, re, using a pry bar in the gap at the top. It way be worth trying that to even it up, before going to the trouble of removing the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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