Jump to content

1964 Rover 8 FFR.


Recommended Posts

Your Rover 8 FFR 1964 looks beautiful.

I've already forgotten how it looks, because all summer I've repaired chassis.

My chassis after the first layer primer and Rover 8 before restoration.

Unfortunately, most of the 40 amp. equipment is lost.

Jarda

 

Jarda

 

That chassis is looking really good.....I know why I haven't heard from you for a while....You have been very, very busy.....Keep us posted my friend! :D:cool2::cool2::cool2::cool::cool::cool::yay::yay::clap::clap:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spoke to the DVLA at Brighton about the chassis. As the chassis I am using will be heavily modified to form an exact replica of the original, using original parts where possible and new manufactured parts where needed then they can class it as a newly manufactured replacement part. They would then stamp the chassis with the original chassis number. The original chassis would have to be destroyed for this. The other option in a worst case scenario is that they class the chassis swap as using a newer chassis, which apparently costs 5 points on thier point system. Provided I use original axles (2 points), engine (1 point), steering (2 points) and gearbox (2 points) then the vehicle will remain tax-exempt as the rebuild scores more than 8 points.

 

===============================

 

That has to be well noted.

 

I have often wondered about this aspect of chassis ferrous DNA , it seems you can renew tow-members or even fit a half chassis , all the x-members , all the outriggers and keep nibbling away at what is left (or just sweep the rust wastage off the garage floor & bin it) - providing you maintain that last 1/2" x 4" bit of dumb-iron with the branded number (and obviously if a PO has renewed the dumb irons - then the proof is gone in any case). I have always maintained that if you have proof of legal title to ownership of two used chassis then this is a possibility - just never asked the authorities.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is interesting to add is that the DVLA class the body work and chassis as one. This can throw up all sorts of grey areas where Land Rovers are concerned. What is instead of chabging the chassis, I were to transplant a 90 body on? I was not brave enough, or stupid enough to ask for fear of what can of worms I may open.

 

I had a look at the replacement Britpart rear crossmember today. It is a whole 1" shorter than the original, so that the bumperette holes ore too close to the middle to allow the lifting rings to position correctly. I had a chat with my dad about it and I joked that it would be easier to make a new one than to bodge the Britpart one. He walked off quietly and returned less than a minute later with a channel of steel the exact legnth and depth needed. What have I let myself in for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That doesnt suprize one bit about the Britpart crossmember, dont know if your on any landrover forums ferret but theres loads of bad things reported about Britpart that alot of people ask for parts not to be from them when ordering bits, myself included

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, sorry for the question.

I found the repair chassis in some places deep bronze green.

I thought that the standard color of the chassis is glossy black. At Merlin's the rear crossmember is to see the rest of the DBG. Do you know what the correct color for Rover 8 Chassis ?

Thanks

Jarda

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having studied the paint layers on my Rover 8 very closely I can add that the original colour was black, along with the front and back axles and propshafts.

 

Probably within the first year the Land Rover was resprayed with an almost identical shade of deep bronze green. It appears that this was sprayed all over the vehicle where it could be accessed without taking it apart as it is found on the bottom of the engine and flywheel housing, but not on the top, meaning the transmission tunnel was not removed. The only markings confirmed on the original paint layer were a blue square on the door (One of ours for exercise purposes I believe) and upon respray the mirrored RA crest was placed on the door and the RA TAC sign with 13 on it was put on the front o/side wing and on the o/side rear crossmember next to the tow hitch.

 

The next respray after this was applied over everything, and because it is found behind the fuel tank I have removed as well as on top of the chassis rails under the rear tub, the vehicle was clearly taken apart. It would seem this practice was repeated at several stages in the vehicles life.

 

As part of the full rebuild I was going to paint the chassis and running gear chassis black. To be entirely accurate for the restoration I should technically strip all the vehicles bumps, bruises, character and history out at the same time. However if I leave the character and history in place (in-service repairs) then the underside should be DBG as well.

 

My helpful nephew said I should restore it to look as new and show it for a year. Then respray it and show it again for another year, etc! How to confuse future archaeologists!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...