1964 Rover 8 FFR.

[ferret1958uk]

As far as I can tell, this vehicle was sold into civilian hands in 1975 and the farmer that bought it registered it for the road, but never used it on the public highway. Instead it was used as the farm hack around the farm buildings and fields right up until when i bought it in July 2007.

 

These few pictures show the Land Rover 'as bought', and hopefully show how original the vehicle actually is. Provided the images load correctly the last one show the last part of the ERM in yellow chalk on the Land Rovers 2nd coat of Bronze Green paint. The number was also written in chalk on the dashboard where the military contract plate sits.

 

Having been rescued from the farm I stored it under cover until just a few weeks ago. Its time has now arrived for restoration, and oddly enough it is now stored in the open while work starts!

[lozzaboy]

sweet, another 40 amp toast rack saved :-)

[ferret1958uk]

Most people would not touch a project like this with someone elses. When I saw it I looked at it closely and found that the chassis has almost completely rotted away at the front (to the front crossmember) and completely at the back where the parts that are visible are held in place by the rear tub alone! All bar one of the road springs have collapsed up into the chassis which is why the vehicle leans so heavily to one side.

 

Plus sides to the project are:

It runs and drives.

All of the original electrics are in place except for the screened ignition system.

It sits on its original split rim wheels, and they appear to be OK (Have around 10-15 spare ones if not from other projects!)

Bulkhead is solid, but needs two footwells replacing.

Doors and body are not too bad except for the front wing which is badly bent, but can be straightened.

Most of the fittings for the radios are still there in the back. Even the leads for the radio batteries to connect to the vehicle were still there along with the dummy terminal block (Removed by the time these images were taken)

and the biggest bonus - most of the missing parts I already have in my collection of spare parts

[lozzaboy]

sounds promising mate. most the fitting from mine where missing and the loom had been bodged to the rear with 7 core trailer wire :-( but its slowly getting there

[Rover8FFR]

Merlin

 

Great Pics and good to see they have been added to the forum for all toast rack 2a NUTS to share and enjoy.

 

I notice you have the resistors in place in the rear tub! Mine just had the backing plate.....Been after those for years!!!! A good close up would help me especially if I could mock up something that looks authentic????:cool2:

 

I noticed that the military screened dizzy had gone and standard HT leads and plugs....Shame as the leads and plugs can be fitted to the military dizzy anyway, which helps the original look a little! As you have the military dizzy you should be able to swop across, assuming same part numbers for 2286cc 24v 40amp set up.

 

Also the inside of my rear tub had thin strips of marine ply fitted along each side for something?? unsure if original or retro fittment???

 

My chassis is a little more salvagable given mine too was a farmers hack and spent 7 years in a field before I bought her from a Landrover specialist near Worcester as a restoration project.

 

At least you have the 40amp generator and sererlium rectifiers in place, which is the real gold in your find.

 

Keep the updates and photos coming mate so that we can share the progress and developments.

 

I am a little stuck between 57EK34 and 44GF13 at the moment and appear to be flitting between the two!

 

I must add some pics of mine onto the forum, probably as a shared Rover Mk 8 resto thread.

 

Any more takers so we can make a beefy thread between us???

 

Cheers:-D:-D

Edited October 20, 2010 by Rover8FFR

[airportable]

Good luck with your project. Will follow your blog with intrest.

Andy.

[ferret1958uk]

I notice you have the resistors in place in the rear tub! Mine just had the backing plate.....Been after those for years!!!! A good close up would help me especially if I could mock up something that looks authentic????:cool2:

 

A good start for a mock up of these would be P A Blanchard. He has the 'later' left hand one as NOS for £6.88 ex VAT. He does not list the one for the right hand side, but it looks the same, just without the resistor.

 

The parts cat lists 4 Junction Boxes. The r/h one is 519669 (early version for contracts KL/H/01291, WV33 and WV340) and 547309 for the later 40amp contracts. The l/h one is 530027 (early version) and 547308 (late version with 2uF capacitor.)

[Rover8FFR]

Merlin do you know resistor part numbers m8?

[ferret1958uk]

The capacitor is integral to the control box. Any 1960's 2uF capacitor will do I suppose as they all seem to be green?

[Rover8FFR]

Sent email to Blanchards with a couple of photo's to see what they say.

 

Cheers

[chevpol]

thats a nice find

 

Mark

[ferret1958uk]

As I took my camera to the workshop today I figured I would post some fresh pics. As you can see the chassis is almost completely gone. Even the bottoms of the crossmembers have rotted out.

 

A few photos of the remains.

 

 

This is one of the signs found painted onto the rear crossmember. I thought it may have been Red over blue with a white 13 on as this is on the front wing, however there is red paint behind the angle iron and no sign of blue so this appears to have been a red square with probably 13 written on it. The sign is to the right of the tow attachment holes.

 

The other sign on the rear crossmember. This one is situated to the left of the tow attachment holes.

 

This is the number 35888 stamped into the n/side front of rear spring hanger. I have no idea what this number is. It is not the chassis number or sequence number, so could it be a production line number like some series 1's have? The number is usually hidden by the fuel tank.

 

I am so very glad I am not trying to save this chassis! Photos of the work on the new chassis will follow later.

 

[radiomike7]

At least you have the 40amp generator and sererlium rectifiers in place, which is the real gold in your find.

 

 

 

Selenium perhaps?:-)

[Rover8FFR]

That's the blighter! Cheers m8y.:angel:

[G506]

Nice project there Merlin, keep us posted!

[lozzaboy]

good going mate :-) are you going for a galvinized chassis or have ya already got one ready to go?

[ferret1958uk]

I looked at the option of a galvanised chassis as Richards Chassis claim they can do the correct one for this vehicle. If I went down that route then I would have to become a true anorak and really annoy the design team by ensuring they got everything correct. This chassis has no hole in the rear cross member (They need to do a special run to omit it according to Rover88FFR) and so I am concerned they may miss peculiarities such as the mounts on the front n/side leg for the Generator Panel and other fiddly bits. Modifying a galvanised chassis would not be my idea of fun.

 

Luckily I was offered a early series 3 chassis which was solid for just £50. I am slowly and carefully making my way through the chassis to make it an exacting replica of the original. I have some photos of the progress and will post them later, but the main differences noted so far just at the rear are:

Series 3 has exhaust hanger brackets for left and right hand drive - Original was right only.

Series 3 has an extra exhaust hanger bracket just infront of the crossmember under the front of the rear body.

Series 3 has 'W' shaped brackets welded to chassis for axle straps and bump stops - Original has tabs for bump stops and plates with threaded holes for the axle straps.

Series 3 has the front tub mounts spaced at 56½ inches apart - original has them at 59½ inches.

Series 3 added two front tub mounts to the centre crossmember.

Series 3 uses plastic clips for the brake pipes, original uses metal p clips.

As it is a civilian chassis I doubt I need to mention the rear crossmember, but I did note the Series 3's all have rounded tops to the tailgate hinge brackets where the meet the chassis and the S1's and early 2's do not!

[ruxy]

Just wondering if you have considered all aspects of your chassis research . Your £50 S3 chassis - did you get any documentation with it ? Have you (alternatively) identified the serial number off the chassis and done a search with Heritage Motor Centre at Gaydon - this is the only possibility of maintainig free road tax legally.

There were very few S3 made up to the end of 1972 - so you accept that it will probably not have the road tax historic status that a new chassis from Richards would benefit from.

Don't dispose of the combat chassis - you may need it as evidence - if at some later date you wish to move the remaining parts of the truck on to a new chassis as funds allow.

[ferret1958uk]

I spoke to the DVLA at Brighton about the chassis. As the chassis I am using will be heavily modified to form an exact replica of the original, using original parts where possible and new manufactured parts where needed then they can class it as a newly manufactured replacement part. They would then stamp the chassis with the original chassis number. The original chassis would have to be destroyed for this. The other option in a worst case scenario is that they class the chassis swap as using a newer chassis, which apparently costs 5 points on thier point system. Provided I use original axles (2 points), engine (1 point), steering (2 points) and gearbox (2 points) then the vehicle will remain tax-exempt as the rebuild scores more than 8 points.

Edited October 23, 2010 by ferret1958uk

[lozzaboy]

that sounds alright then, better then being all arsey about it and having to re-register it (makes a change for the dvla to be so helpful lol), wonder if Richards do know about ommiting the hole in the cross member, the previous owner of mine had to fit a new rear cross member which has the hole but when I can I'm planning on somehow getting it welded up and ground back smooth

[G506]

Merlin,

Going back to your bent N/S front wing, Ive got a spare second hand one, civvy spec but Im sure you could modify it! You're welcome to it if you want it, Mrs G506 works in Chichester and could drop it in to yours if you like.

PM me if you're interested.

[ferret1958uk]

Thank you for the offer of the front wing. I was hoping to keep the original wing as i quite like the repair that was done to it in service. I think it adds character to the vehicle that may otherwise be lost in a restoration. It is likely to be the only thing on the vehicle left that is not put back to how it was when the vehicle was first built.

[Rover8FFR]

Sent email to Blanchards with a couple of photo's to see what they say.

 

Cheers

 

Blanchards have replied to my email stating they have nothing life that????!!! :-(

[touchwood 2a]

Your Rover 8 FFR 1964 looks beautiful.

I've already forgotten how it looks, because all summer I've repaired chassis.

My chassis after the first layer primer and Rover 8 before restoration.

Unfortunately, most of the 40 amp. equipment is lost.

Jarda

[Rover8FFR]

I looked at the option of a galvanised chassis as Richards Chassis claim they can do the correct one for this vehicle. If I went down that route then I would have to become a true anorak and really annoy the design team by ensuring they got everything correct. This chassis has no hole in the rear cross member (They need to do a special run to omit it according to Rover88FFR) and so I am concerned they may miss peculiarities such as the mounts on the front n/side leg for the Generator Panel and other fiddly bits. Modifying a galvanised chassis would not be my idea of fun.

 

Luckily I was offered a early series 3 chassis which was solid for just £50. I am slowly and carefully making my way through the chassis to make it an exacting replica of the original. I have some photos of the progress and will post them later, but the main differences noted so far just at the rear are:

Series 3 has exhaust hanger brackets for left and right hand drive - Original was right only.

Series 3 has an extra exhaust hanger bracket just infront of the crossmember under the front of the rear body.

Series 3 has 'W' shaped brackets welded to chassis for axle straps and bump stops - Original has tabs for bump stops and plates with threaded holes for the axle straps.

Series 3 has the front tub mounts spaced at 56½ inches apart - original has them at 59½ inches.

Series 3 added two front tub mounts to the centre crossmember.

Series 3 uses plastic clips for the brake pipes, original uses metal p clips.

As it is a civilian chassis I doubt I need to mention the rear crossmember, but I did note the Series 3's all have rounded tops to the tailgate hinge brackets where the meet the chassis and the S1's and early 2's do not!

 

Merlin I investigated an exact copy of a Rover 8 24v chassis with Marsland, even with the proper rear cross member and they could carry out an exact reproduction for about a grand plus delivery from memory....If you need the check sheet I sent back them I will email to your personal email.

 

Regards