Sidewinder Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 A few months ago, I twisted the track adjuster on my 432 while playing in sand... never again. Today after finally getting the spares and more importantly some free time I set about repairing the old girl.. by myself. A slightly daunting prospect considering the size of the task, one of the reasons I'd been putting it off for so long! However I now have a running 432 again! :cool2: First I had to split the track which had come off completely when the adjuster went, shift it around to lay it back under the vehicle, drop off the old adjuster.. which I will add is a heavy bastard. How I managed to get the new adjuster back on I honestly don't know, I'm happy to admit I'm not the worlds biggest or strongest man. Getting the track back on was relatively simple after that.. I know most of you are probably familiar with track bashing, but for those who aren't it really needn't be the scary task it sounds. The right tools, a bit of common sense and taking your time and its pretty easy, even by yourself. Isn't it nice to have 'mates' who will happily drive and play with your vehicles, but as soon as you need a hand fixing it they all disappear! I now feel confident I can tackle anything the old girl can throw at me in the future, then after a few more years experience and a lucky lottery win I can upgrade to a Chieftain! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Well done A message of hope for those of us nervously eyeing up all the 432's that are around Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtreme Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 I Know how you feel ,done a very similar job at weekend fitted a final drive on a 434 and today had to piece all the the track together . luckily all 180 links were in the back but I am 4 track pins short . and my back aches Question is it possible to fit the track without the track clamp . If so any tips regards dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 Might be possible to rejoin the tracks without the clamps, but certainly easier with. The two links need to form a 10degree angle so that the hexagional bushes in each pad line up allowing the pin to the tapped through without too much force. It might be possible to do this using bars, ratchet straps, pull-lifts etc.. but I've not tried it. I got a track splitting kit (2x track clamps and a track pin drift) from Marcus Glenn for about £60. Certainly worth it considering the hassle it saved. Hope this helps, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 When it comes to track bashing, you need the correct tools and you need them stowed in the vehicle. You never know when you'll need them. The tracks are heavy and trying to bodge the job with improvised tools could cause you a serious injury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 (edited) A few months ago, I twisted the track adjuster on my 432 while playing in sand... never again. I'm a bit confused here. What do you mean by "the track adjuster"? If you replaced the axle arm, did you just replace the arm itself or the entire assembly including the bracket that bolts to the hull? I was warned to look for twisted axle arms when buying a 432 as apparently they're quite common. Andy Edited October 12, 2010 by andym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 (edited) Question is it possible to fit the track without the track clamp . If so any tips regards dan There's a video on Youtube of someone replacing track on an MBT just using rachet straps, but I wouldn't recommend it. There's enough of the proper tools around - Marcus Glen has been mentioned and I bought a complete CES set of clamps, all three drifts and leaders from Sammy Clarke for around £60 at his recent yard sale. Failing that, seek out a friendly HMVF member with the correct tools! Andy Edited October 12, 2010 by andym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtreme Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 I have a stormer clamp which also works on my cvrt . will be locating a 432 clamp asap thanks for the replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 Frankly, having done CVR(T) track, do the right thing, buy the tools and do it the right way. There is a lot going on in getting the track lined up. If you want the least aggravation when doing an elective track splitting do it with clean track on a smooth surface such as concrete and have a few clear headed helpers who understand the objective. Good quality boards make a difference doing it in "in the field" as an aide. My 2 cents worth R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 I have a stormer clamp which also works on my cvrt . will be locating a 432 clamp asap thanks for the replies Try Sammy Clarke - he also had half a box of track pins and some spare pads last time I looked. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 I'm a bit confused here. What do you mean by "the track adjuster"? If you replaced the axle arm, did you just replace the arm itself or the entire assembly including the bracket that bolts to the hull? I was warned to look for twisted axle arms when buying a 432 as apparently they're quite common. The rear idler assembly, the whole lot that bolts directly to the hull. Basically the sand built up in the tracks and stretched everything until something went.. the something was the wheel hub itself which literally exploded, I found ball bearings some distance away. It also twisted the stub axle, radius arm and cracked most of the welds on the bracket that bolts to the hull. As a result it was easier to replace the lot as one unit. A lot of damage for what was supposed to be just a quick ten minute spin! James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 So, out of interest, did you go through the whole brown paper/araldite procedure or just bolt it on? If my seized left-hand adjuster won't succumb to Sharky's lots of heat and grease idea I may end up having to change it .... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 One of the few draw-backs with Soviet kit - trying to get hold of the right tools to do the track work with!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 So, out of interest, did you go through the whole brown paper/araldite procedure or just bolt it on I just cleaned everything up and bolted the replacement unit on, will just keep an eye on the bolts in future to make sure they aren't working loose. What purpose does the brown paper play then? Stop the part from seizing to the hull? I scraped off what was left of the old one, but didn't replace it. Don't tell me I've done it wrong and it all needs to come off again! :nut: James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 The repair manual contains dire warnings about not disturbing the adhesive between the adjuster bracket and the hull. If you do, you're supposed to ensure that the adhesive facing and paper gasket aren't damaged when the bracket is removed. If it is damaged, there's a long and complicated procedure to replace it, including manufacturing guide studs out of steel bar and a metal pressure plate to clamp the new gasket and araldite to the hull, where it's supposed to be left to set for 24 hours. It all seems somewhat OTT to me and I don't understand what's wrong with just ensuring clean mating surfaces and bolting it all back up. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) Hm, intriguing. Like you I can't see what vital purpose a gasket would provide let alone glueing a gasket to the hull, especially via that long winded method. Even if a gasket is required, why not just have it sandwiched between the two parts or is more to do with the layer of araldite thats created? I assume the manual doesn't go into detail as to what happens should you not follow the instructions? I just assumed on such a beefy, heavily engineered part that just making sure the mating faces are clean and all bolts tight would do but I will let you know should my 432's track self-destruct... again...! James Edited October 14, 2010 by Sidewinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Im very interested in this thread, a good loc tite product on clean threads I would have thought to be enough. Lets see if we can shake a "technical" answer from someone. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I'd also be interested in the practical experience of someone like Iain (Sharky) who's probably changed a few in his time and will tell us if anything dreadful happened afterwards! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtreme Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 just awaiting track clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antar Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 [ATTACH=CONFIG]36104[/ATTACH] just awaiting track clamps You will have them Saturday, looks like the plastic chair is the most important tool when using the needle gun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Had my first experience of track bashing the other week while changing the sprockets on the Sabre. Really wouldn't have liked to do it without the proper tools... Anyway very late in the day and under instruction from a colleague (ex REME Chally 2 man), we got everything back together and just had to tension the tracks. Soooo.... grease gun on the prominent nipple on the ram and away we go. Pump, pump, pump, track not moving but absolutely loads of pressure on the gun... Pump even harder as clearly ram is seized from sitting around too long.. Still no movement at all.. OK lets try the other side. Same story really not happy now. Think I'll have to get the tensioners off to unseize them. At this point someone else turns up, takes one look at the rams and starts to snigger... Suffice to say my Sabre's tensioner rams now have the best greased pivot pins in history !!!! Tensioning the tracks took about 4 minutes. In my defence REME man watched me put the gun in place and didn't complain - at least I'll know for next time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 We made exactly the same mistake, you're not the only one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtreme Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Big Thanks to John For the track Clamps got my 434 track on today after fitting the missing final drive . Drives excellent very happy . cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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