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timbo

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About timbo

  • Birthday 04/08/1968

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    Huddersfield

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  1. No worries Rob I’ve sent you a message with my number. Let me know if you can’t see it. You should be able to get to your messages in your account section.
  2. I have the trumpet, which you can have for postage cost. I'm afraid I can't help with dizzy and leads. Marcus Glenn may have them. Green machine also worth a try, or Richard at Banisters... Cheers Tim
  3. Diesel fan belt failure. Had the live feed wire come loose from the ballast resistor in the ignition junction box in my Sabre, resulting in no spark - took a while to track that one down. Variety of fuel supply problems in Spartans due to dirt and water in fuel tanks. Shed a few road wheel rubbers but never to the point where it’s stopped the job. Couple of steering mc failures but usually after standing for a long time.. Did have one complete engine failure which I never figured out what it was - but at the time I had a load of spare engines so it was easier just to put a new one in (those were the days!) Fuel supply is the only thing that’s ever stopped me mid journey…on one occasion for about 20 mins in the middle of a busy crossroads until I could nurse it out of the way! I don’t tend to go very far on the road - maybe 7 or 8 miles to a country pub, but I always try to have at least a rough plan in case things go wrong - even if it’s just a local breakdown number..
  4. As Chris says a bit involved but not especially technical. Just keep taking bits off until you can get to where you need to be. A couple of other points - the diesel fan belt does NOT need to run particularly tight - 14mm free play at the mid point, and you shouldn’t have to work too hard to get to this. Some people suggest adding a spare fan belt while you are there and cable tying it out of the way. Then if this belt fails you have one ready to go. I’ve never done this and there are other people who strongly advise against it and say it is almost certain to cause belt failure (presumably through the spare interfering with the running belt).
  5. Following this with interest as I have 2 Spartans and a Striker to do this job on! As an aside, I have exactly the same T handle hex set as you!
  6. Andrew Baker has loads of cupolas lying around, although I'd guess most of them are in no better condition than what you have.
  7. The spec for these pumps (facet prc1960) suggests they flow up to 32 us galls per hour, which works out at 2 litres/ min so yours is a little slow - but I'm still with Diana on this one - dirt in fuel most likely cause...
  8. Is the vehicle running poorly? Some tick slow, some tick fast - if it aint broke dont fix it!
  9. Since the question is about the best tracked vehicle, rather than the best tank, I feel I can safely and justifiably say CVRT of course! Coming up to 50 years in service, and highly likely to make it to 60 years. Think about it - that would be like using a Sherman in 2003!
  10. I watched this a few months back, and felt a bit uneasy about it but found it interesting all the same. In retrospect though I think that article is spot on! Hopefully we wont see another series...
  11. Vince A certain Mr Moss I seem to remember - funny how the advice always comes AFTER the event - if I remember rightly someone else asked 'is it supposed to do that'!!!! Tim
  12. Thanks Andy very helpful I think my plan will be to remove the wheels. The centre right wheel station has a very pronounced bend in the ball joint, which must have happened a long time ago as the wheels are all straight - I suspect it was the result of being fork-lifted pre restoration. I do have some spare NOS wheel stations so I will try and get a spare off them. Anyway the upshot is that the ball joint is hard up against the cylinder on that side so it has to come off anyway... Always something to do! Cheers Tim
  13. Having got fed up with running what is effectively a total loss braking system (ie pour in large quantities of expensive ISO10 which promptly pours out!)....I have decided to have a go at changing the cylinder seals. Got new seals (not NOS) from Richard Banister, and was expecting this to be fairly straightforward. But....for most of the cylinders they seem to be fouled either by the handbrake cables, or steering gear. The brake cables won't come off without removing a roadwheel. Am I missing an easy way of doing this? Also, was thinking about trying to get some seals made in polyurethane, which seems to be recommended for this type of application, but the new seals are quite a shiny, plasticky material so I suspect may already made of this. Andy J if you're out there I think you were going to try a different material - any success? Cheers Timbo
  14. Matt Not only is it the same tool, it may very well be the SAME tool !!!😄 Tim
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