Richard Farrant

Hi Tim, The belt I have used on K2 is C40. regards, Richard

If it is like the walking beam arrangement on the 35 ton low loader semi-trailer, they have thick bronze sleeves. What you need to find is someone with the parts list as it may have details of the bush, either a makers number or tracing it through the NSN number.

Float needle in carb could be stuck, just carefully crack open the fuel pipe where it goes in the carb, if it spurts petrol under pressure, this could be the answer. Usually free if you give the carb a knock, bit of hardwood, or a screwdriver handle - NOT a hammer!

Sorry Tim, I am not in the workshop today, so will let you know tomorrow.

Hi Tim, I have the number written on the wall at work, so will not see it until tomorrow. It is easy to get hold of from bearing stockists. Richard

Hi Paul, You could try Cox & Turner in Somerset. They only work with vintage engines and have never let me down in sourcing crank bearings, rings, etc. If all else fails, I would think these shells are quite a thick steel wall, if so, it might be that re-metalling them is the only solution. I had to have this done on a Daimler engine last year. A specialist company did the mains shells then line bored them in the block. The fit was superb. The company was Formhalls Vintage & Racing.

Looking forward to getting to War & Peace, do like the racecourse venue too. Beltring was getting tired, been going there since the start. Will be great to catch up with old acquaintances again and to see the new features this year. Best of luck to the new organisers, hope they have the 'weather gods' on their side . regards, Richard

I think you will find that DSG Stirling is what was once District Workshop, then ABRO Stirling. Not an army unit as such.

Hi Trapper, Go to this thread from two years ago, the last two posts on the page will answer your question. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?42329-Importation-to-France-without-a-Certificate-of-Conformity/page2

You would not want to follow this one, an accident waiting to happen ......... don't think he could be classed as a professional

Hi Jules, You normally lap a taper cock in with a very fine abrasive paste. I find valve grinding paste too harsh and use a paste which was for lapping in injector nozzles. Looking at the second photo here, is the centre of the cock flush or slightly proud of the tap body? If it is, then it has been ground in too far and spring pressure is having little effect. Maybe it is the photo but that is what it looks like. Richard

I am afraid there is not a Kent Branch any more, at least no officially. Stephen, as you are getting married in Gillingham, I will PM you someone to contact in that neck of the woods. regards, Richard

Hi Malcolm, If this is what I think it is, I have dealt with it on numerous occasions, with Ferret as well a Saracen, Stalwart, Fox, etc. It could well be a metal deposit between the a tracta fork and knuckle on an outer tracta joint. Due to localised heat a pit occurs on one part and a deposit on the other and when driving in a straight line this does not create any or much noise, until you steer off centre and the pip is then not aligned with the pit and then knocking occurs. What you could do is jack up both wheels one side and get someone to turn the rear one and watch the front wheel, if you have the steering slightly one way you may notice the wheel kick as it turns. Depending on how big an area is damaged it is permissible to stone down the damaged to regain working clearance, the pit actually serves as an oil retainer, just depends how bad it is. regards Richard

The AB562, which is the Vehicle Record Book was not kept in the document wallet. The unit would hold this and if the vehicle went to workshops, then the 562 would go with it. My memory says there was an accident form in the wallet, but I forget the number.

Alan, Check the site map, the public pedestrian entrance is still up in the same place as before in Stone Street and adjacent to the station. I understand the fields used for the car parks in the past recently changed ownership and then leased to a farmer, so not available for use. regards, Richard

Hi Rob, No problem. It is a task I have done numerous times on QL, RL and MK/MJ ! regards, Richard

I would not knock NGK spark plugs until you are sure the ones you are using are not fakes. It has been widely known for several years that there are a lot of counterfeit NGK plugs in circulation. I generally use Champion but also NGK and never had a problem. Probably due to the fact I but them from a reputable supplier. If you buy these plugs from places such as Ebay and they are cheap then a good chance they are not genuine. Check out the makers warning, http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/

Hi Rob, A lot of muddying of the waters here with talk of Eager Beavers, etc. The holes in the seal are not holes for the ring that has 12 screws securing it. The seal and the copper leaf springs that apply pressure to the lip are located on pins on the inside of the securing ring. This seal was designed for the 1940's Bedford QL and used right through the RL to the last MJ models, same part number. There is no need to dismantle the axle, the rings should be unbolted and seal removed carefully to preserve the leaf springs. Check where the top of the seal will be and with a sharp knife make a scarf cut so the seal can be fitted around the challis. With this joint at the top it will not leak if a clean cut and a spot of sealer on it. EP90 is OK for the axles and swivels. regards, Richard

Bordon was a Canadian base during WW2 and I think the sales there were mainly if not all vehicles used by Canadian forces.

Hi Pete, With the engine turned off, I assume the gear lever can be shifted in all positions with ease? If this is so, then it points to clutch dragging. Obviously you will have to visually confirm the air cylinder is throwing the lever. If this is OK it is likely a dragging clutch plate. Could be hanging on worn splines on the gearbox, or maybe the plate got damaged when the gearbox was fitted. People often make the mistake of distorting the plate when trying to fit the gearbox, this will then give you a dragging clutch. Could also be oil or grease on the plates causing drag. Richard

That only appears to show services. Having worked in army workshops, I know how vehicles come in for repairs frequently, but there does not appear to be any repairs recorded on this document. At one time in the old AB412 there were codes written in covering operations such as renew clutch, repair brakes, etc. Of course it is all computerised now, but I don't think this document tells the whole story.

Paul, Back in the days when Stalwart was still in service, there was an instruction to use ceramic clutch plates, they were available to demand through the stores system. These plates did not absorb moisture like an asbestos type material and therefore did not stick. I have used them and they do work fine.

Hi Danny, The torque for head bolts on a Bedford 28hp are 78 to 83 lbs/ft. and it also shows a metric equivalent of 10.78 to 11.47 kg/m. No idea about Newton/metres as I use the British scales.

This mount looks the same as a number that have been turning up at the swap meet at Corowa Swim-In in NSW for the last 4 years. All un-used. Thought they might have been for the International trucks. Richard

I have a NOS silencer for a Mk4. Regarding parts from Fox fitting Mk4, if Doug is referring to wheel stations I know they may look the same but don't think parts are interchangeable. When I was working on Fox for the Army there was always a delay getting parts and I found a heap of Mk4 wheel stations removed from vehicles before they went on the ranges. They were of no use as all parts needed were different.