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sexton

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sexton last won the day on June 26 2018

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About sexton

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  • Location
    Whitby, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    All things mechanical.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical engineer

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  1. I've read through your attempts to unscrew the end cap of the equilibrator, item 48 in the parts diagram, and I don't see anywhere where you specifically heat the bugger up to red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch. That's what it needs! And by the "bugger", I mean the flat face of the end cap and the region of the cylinder with the internal threads. I don't know the diameter of the cylinder but you may need to buy or borrow a crescent wrench, aka adjustable spanner, large enough to fit the flats. And it must fit snugly! Soaking in the huge variety of penetrants always suggested
  2. John, the guys at the nuke plant used to bring in an electrical discharge machining contractor when they broke a stud on a critical piece of equipment. Don't know the price but it didn't seem to be too expensive. Malcolm
  3. Well spotted, Citroman! It is indeed 0.829. So that's what the 2500/.829 means on the back of the tach! Malcolm
  4. John, i worked at a nuclear plant, so steam, heat, and highly stressed bolting. We had a very good metallurgical department who identified failure causes and we saw our fair share of bolting SSC. 115 ft-lb on a 7/16" stud is 140,000 psi stress in the stud. High quality grade 8 bolting has an ultimate tensile stress of 150,000 psi. So those studs are extremely high tensile material. No wonder they were susceptible to SCC. And no wonder you had difficulty drilling and tapping it!
  5. Not necessarily. This is a crash shift, no synchromesh, so if the gear teeth don't line up with motor shut off, they won't engage. Try kicking the motor over with the starter and trying again. I agree with sirhc, on a CVRT and a Ferret, you have to shift forward to reverse and vice versa very firmly, with no delay. And I mean firmly. Malcolm
  6. Found this late but I can tell you the Centurion tachogenerator which is driven by an idler gear off the cam gear is an AC generator that creates an AC voltage that varies as rpm. So the tachometer is really just an AC voltmeter calibrated in rpm. At 2500 crank rpm the tachogenerator generates about 4V AC. One wrinkle is that the tachogenerator is spun at 0.892 of the crank speed, for reasons that only a British designer would know, so when test spinning the tachogenerator at 2200 rpm, the tach will read 2500 rpm, the redline for a Cent. This doesn't make for an easy conversion to
  7. Very interesting, John. Sounds exactly like stress corrosion cracking, which is surprisingly common for high tensile bolting under a lot of stress and seeing moisture and heat. I guess studs were larger diameter below broken 7/16" section since you drilled and tapped for 1/2"? What is the torque on these studs? Malcolm Malcolm
  8. Paul, Sorry to hear about your health woes. Sounds painful! We have made some progress. We have a spare clutch in poor condition and one of the clever guys here suggested using just the clutch shaft as an alignment tool. Seemed like a good idea, so I stripped the old clutch down and it looks like we can drop the engine in, slide it towards the front, install the bare clutch shaft (well, not completely bare, it has the drive gear mounted at the crankshaft end and the output shaft flange at the gearbox end), slide the engine backwards to locate the drive gear in the end of the crank
  9. Hi, Paul, Thanks for responding. I'll send you a PM. Can you remember if Barney used the very special tool specified in the Manual to do the gearbox-engine alignment? Because I suspect, like so many special tools and elaborate procedures in the manual, the guys in the field found more practical ways of doing the job. That's what I need! Whoever took the drivetrain apart before my time bagged and tagged the gearbox alignment shims so I used those when installing the gearbox. That gives me some confidence that at least the gearbox- final drive alignment is ok. Malco
  10. Hi, Caddy, I'm resurrecting this old thread in the hope you are still around. I'm getting close to installing a Mk 4B Meteor in our Mk5/2 Cent at the Ontario Regiment Museum in Ontario, Canada. It's a 1974 rebuild by Scottish Aviation, and it runs well on the test stand after some magneto and carb cleanup. I am really interested in the engine installation photos you posted. It looks like you removed the starter, generator, and oil filter, then dropped it in sideways into the hull and rotated it 90 degrees into position. Is that correct? I wasn't planning on removing the oil filter but yo
  11. Hi, I'm still plugging away at getting our Mk 5/2 Centurion drivable at the Ontario Regiment Museum. I'm lubing the long-neglected suspension now, and have a question about the two shock absorbers at the top of each large suspension unit. They are supposed to be submerged in a reservoir of a light ISO 12 viscosity hydraulic oil and they draw from that reservoir in operation. When I removed the fill plugs I found all of them very low in oil, possibly dry, and one with a fill of grease, or at least grease had been slathered down in the fill hole. I was surprised at the lack of oil because none o
  12. I got some good replies on MLU if you need some info on this tool. Malcolm
  13. Hi, We have a Staghound on loan and I'm working on setting up the throttle linkages which are out of adjustment.The pic below is from the manual and shows the throttle linkage "checking gauge". This is an important tool for the initial step of setting the correlation between the hydraulic slave cylinder idler lever mounted on the right hand transmission bell housing and the link rod up to the right hand carb. Not having this makes the setup a bit hit and miss. Does anyone have one? I don't need the tool but I'd really appreciate a sketch or photo with dimensions.Thanks,MalcolmOntario Regiment
  14. Matt, adjustable spanners can cause problems on smaller stuff but a good quality one will work no problem on those larger union nuts. Try it. Malcolm
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