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CVRT Scorpion restoration.


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Yes it would be, but not possible where the hull is due to the very close proximity of many other running and restored vehicles (bus and Ward LaFrance owners don't like their vehicles getting dirty). There is not even space to erect a shelter around it to do this.

 

Bob, thanks for the tip on the gloves. Didn't know you could get such things!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the hydravane into the shed now, just need to get an air drier/reducer and a couple of air couplings for it. Then I can really get into the shot blasting and needle gunning.:)

 

In the meantime, I have stripped one of the final drives. Seems in good condition, the other one froze up when we went to move the vehicle in January so has definitely suffered some water ingress. I plan to shot blast the outer casings then rebuild with new seals.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress has sped up now thanks to the larger compressor. I can run the blasting cabinet and needle gun at the same time (when i have help) with the air system i have purchased.

 

I have now finished needle gunning one (lower) side, and have also run a rotary wire rush over it. The stub axles for this side have been de-greased, shot blasted and temporarily fitted with the (cleaned up) old bolts. I have just bought new shake proof washers for these and have also (thanks to this forum) found the correct anti-galvanic corrosion substance to use on the [steel] assemblies and bolts that attach to the [aluminium] hull.

 

The final drive has been cleaned up and is ready for reassembly. I have removed the quill shaft seal and am hoping to have some new ones manufactured. I want these to be replaced now as they require the final drive to be removed if they leak (which i won't know until it's driving!). If any other CVRT owners would like some quill shaft seals, let me know. I am currently planning on having 12 made (depending on price and success of manufacture) and 8 are spoken for already.

 

I will also be replacing the o ring seals on the stub axles and may have to get these manufactured too.

 

I have also begun needle gunning the other side. I purchased a set of mechanics gloves (for use with air tools) and they really have helped increase the amount of work I can do with the needle gun and angle grinder in one session. They also keep your hands warmer which is a factor when you have an air tool exhaust blowing on them for prolonged time periods.

 

The shot blasting cabinet is proving a success, but there are a couple of issues. One is that the light in it is at the top rear, so when you are working on a surface facing you, it cannot be seen! To this end i have purchased a rechargeable LED lamp that can be magnetically mounted that should improve things. Another issue is the amount of dust the cabinet creates masks the piece being worked on. I found an old vacuum cleaner in the attic, plugged it into the back of the cabinet and that cured that problem. Last issue is that as I am not particularly tall, when i look into the window to see what i am doing, my breath steams up the glass. Not so easy to clear when your hands are in the gauntlets!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have finished blasting all the stub axles and idler axles. Waiting for some of the correct sealant to arrive so i can fit them to the hull. The other side is 70% needle gunned, it's much quicker with the new compressor. We only stopped because the needle gun packed up and needed a it of maintenance!

 

Also spent a day extracting the 4 J60 engines we have form the field where they have lain for a few years. After an hour spent getting the eager beaver running (it is a particularly sorry example and not ours) we loaded 3 into the back of Mikes S1 Landie, and 1 in the trailer. Don't think it has ever had a load that heavy before!

 

The engines are now being assessed for rebuild. I need to get 3 out of the 4 done as our Spartan currently has the wrong compression ratio J60 fitted, and i also want to have 1 as a spare. I will probably be having them rebuilt by a third party while i concentrate on the rest of the vehicle. I have also heard a rumour that the gearbox rebuild for this vehicle has commenced, 2 years after we sent it away!

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  • 4 weeks later...

A major point was reached yesterday with the first restored parts being refitted to the vehicle.

 

The stub axles were primed and the rear of each painted with zinc based paint (to prevent galvanic corrosion) before fitting. The bolt threads were also painted.

 

The other side of the lower hull is now also 85% needle gunned, so once finished the other side can be re-assembled.

 

The final drive will soon be re-assembled, freeing up space on the rather small work bench to strip and check the other one. The interior of the transmission compartment will need to be painted before these are fitted as the hand brake bands and their associated fittings need to be installed first. I am still awaiting news on the batch of final drive shaft seals I am having manufactured.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have now fitted the stub axles and bump stops on the other side of the hull, and the right-hand final drive has been re-assembled. It was quite tricky lock wiring the bolts! I am still waiting for the new drive shaft seals to be manufactured for this item. The interior of the hull will require painting before I fit the final drives.

 

At the point now where I can think about ordering some etch primer for the interior and exterior, but the hull cleaning has temporarily ceased as my needle gun has packed up. Fortunately it is under warranty and has gone away for repair/replacement.

 

I have begun cleaning up the radial arms for the right hand side and have discovered that some will require re-bushing. The Belgian army seem to have filled them with grease when they should have oil in them and his has caused some damage. Fortunately I have found a source of these parts. The hubs and bearings will also be removes and inspected.

 

We also won (yet another) engine in a Withams auction. Unfortunately it only turns about 140 degrees, so I think it has a valve problem. I am currently stripping the head off to inspect/repair it. I have also purchased a jaguar cam shaft timing tool to assist with this. Come January we will have 5 good engines between the 2 CVRT's!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I see it as a "pre-stripped" project. Its more a case of repainting a lot of parts and bolting it back together. I also have most of the bits. Others have undertaken far more difficult restorations (ie Adrian and Jims' Shermans rebuilt from range wrecks).

 

 

Pre-stripped? you're an optimistic person!

 

That's a good thing to have with this project.

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  • 4 weeks later...

A little more progress today (been hiding from the cold lately, plus been busy preparing to move house). Now have 3 radial arms shot blasted. They take about 20 minutes each to do. I had to stop as the grit level in the cabinet has got too low for continuous use and I kept having to stop and give the cabinet a ash to make the grit flow down the hopper. Another annoyance is having to stop every couple of minutes to wipe the condensation (my breath) from the viewing window! I plan to strip and inspect the hubs and bearings when all the arms are done.

 

 

 

I have also just collected the final drive quill shaft seals that I have had made, and they fit well. I have had a couple of extra sets made up for other people, if anyone else is interested then I can have a few more made up.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

All the suspension components for one side are now cleaned up and temporarily fitted. Just the other side to do now and then I can get on with some painting.

 

I have been keeping a log of time spent on the project and although I've been at it for a year now, its only been 80 man hours to get this far. I'm moving house soon (becoming a home owner) and will be living a lot closer to the project so hopefully I'll be able to spend a bit more time on it. However, my "little and often" work policy has kept it ticking over (I do have rather a large fleet to look after as well as doing this project).

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