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Fordson WOT6


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So you would move the cable end towards the pivot at the engine or away from the pivot at the pedal end. Or drill several holes and experiment. I prefer a longer pedal travel on old off roaders, otherwise as you bounce over the slightest bump you will get wild throttle movements. When I built hybrid Land Rovers with v8's it was essential but probably not such a big problem with the horse power you have🤣.

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9 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

So you would move the cable end towards the pivot at the engine or away from the pivot at the pedal end. Or drill several holes and experiment. I prefer a longer pedal travel on old off roaders, otherwise as you bounce over the slightest bump you will get wild throttle movements. When I built hybrid Land Rovers with v8's it was essential but probably not such a big problem with the horse power you have🤣.

The horses have bolted !! Just donkeys left 😂 

from advice given it sounds like I need to shorten the throttle lever on the manifold, moving the cable isn’t really an option as it’s a complicated set up, I’ve already tried several different positions on the throttle lever but I haven’t shortened it yet, more fettling required….

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Still plodding along and chipping away at the never ending list 🤨

Jobs now completed 🍻

Throttle pedal now sorted, had to shorten the throttle lever on the manifold by 20mm to get the angle of the dangle right.

Drivers side floor pan now finished with draft excluders fitted around the pedals.

 

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Popped down to Kent this morning to collect my new seat cushions and cupola cover all courtesy of RCH Canvas, Richard and Charlotte done a fantastic job at a very reasonable price, if you need any canvas products for British military vehicles RCH Canvas can be found on Facebook. 
 

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Cupola cover is a great fit and really finishes the roof off. 
 

Seat cushions fitted, I’ve ordered some new lift dot studs for the seat frames as a couple are missing.

 

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8 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

Gear lever looks like fun to operate. Do you have an operation to have an extra elbow planned?🤣. Ergonomics weren't on the priority list at the time I guess.

It’s definitely not the easiest gear change,  I am considering having a crash pad made to fit on the rear bulkhead to save wacking my elbow every time you try for 2nd and 4th……or …….I could just use 1st and 3rd. 🤔

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6 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

It will certainly be an interesting drive 😬

Can't be long now before you get to try it. Presume you are looking forward to getting out and about with it.

Richard and Charlotte did the canvas on my Tanker, lovely people and very good at the sewing thing. 

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14 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

Can't be long now before you get to try it. Presume you are looking forward to getting out and about with it.

Richard and Charlotte did the canvas on my Tanker, lovely people and very good at the sewing thing. 

Still quite a lot of work to do, complete rewire, rebuild rear body, service running gear, brakes and tyres !! Couple of weekends work 😁

 

Richard and Charlotte are also making canvas gators for the gear-lever, transfer lever and hand brake. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening everyone 

Some advise needed please.

1, is the any particular ww2  font/style for the bridging plate number?

2, can anyone recommend a mobile auto electrician that covers Surrey/ SW London area ? I’d like to get a new loom made for the truck, there’s no original loom available to copy.

 

Thanks Seamus 

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This weekend I…er..be mainly un-seizing brakes 🤔

decided to tackle the brakes and get my head around the general setup of this rod and cable system, there is a lot of moving parts

( or should be moving parts )

 

This is mission control 

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Handbrake and rear brakes

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pedal support pivot

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and on top of that there’s 4 cables 🤨

every clevis pin bar 2 was rusted solid, I stupidly got impatient and mushroomed the clevis pin head 🙄

 

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that cost me a couple of hours messing about, should have just waited for it to heat up properly 

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all the main components are now in working order, next job drums off and further inspection. 

Edited by 67burwood
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But once you get it freed up and lubricated, no brake fluid or pistons to go bad and handbrake makes a good brake booster, pulling and pushing at same time. If I remember correctly, handbrake also works on all wheels.

agree, gear change is a great workout! Easy to see which gear you’re in : )

ATB

peter

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12 hours ago, 7VHU said:

But once you get it freed up and lubricated, no brake fluid or pistons to go bad and handbrake makes a good brake booster, pulling and pushing at same time. If I remember correctly, handbrake also works on all wheels.

agree, gear change is a great workout! Easy to see which gear you’re in : )

ATB

peter

From a maintenance point of view it’s perfect, keep it all lubricated and there’s nothing to go bad if it sits unused and yes I agree, driving this truck will definitely be a workout 😁

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11 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

G clamp and a socket also very good at removing clevis pins if you have the space 👍 looking extremly good now, you must be pleased.

Thanks for the tip 👍 a G clamp and socket makes perfect sense.
Yes very happy with the outcome so far, it’s really starting to take shape, my daughter hand painted the number nine on the bridging plate just to make it look more authentic.

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Today’s progress report…..

Now that we have a bit of extra light in the evenings I started to strip and service the front brakes, this is not a 5 minute job and the brake drums and hub assembly weigh about 30kg each!!  
 

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first hub off and everything looks in fairly good order. 

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There is virtually no wear on the front drums 

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A good blast of brake cleaner to get rid of the nasty stuff  

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The brake expanders were a bit sticky so there were striped and cleaned  

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Interesting set up with 2 ball bearings and expanders  

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Not a very good picture but the cable is fixed inside the housing and both ball bearings sit inside the end of the cable. Luckily both front brake cables move freely, they were greased and refitted.

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With both front brakes now serviced and adjusted I started to grease the 5000+ grease nipples 🤔 ok not quite 5000 but there’s a lot….

I also started to check the levels, might as well start at the front and work my way back crossing off all the small jobs as I go, one job I noticed was the transfer lever wasn’t engaging 4 wheel drive, this should have been a fairly straight forward job!! after some time slowly adjusting the transfer rod disaster 😩 the cast alloy lever button just broke!!!!
 

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If anyone has a replacement button please let me know , I also need a left hand wheel nut  

 

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Edited by 67burwood
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On 4/5/2022 at 7:48 PM, 67burwood said:

Evening everyone 

Some advise needed please.

1, is the any particular ww2  font/style for the bridging plate number?

2, can anyone recommend a mobile auto electrician that covers Surrey/ SW London area ? I’d like to get a new loom made for the truck, there’s no original loom available to copy.

 

Thanks Seamus 

I used Autosparks for a wiring loom for my Ford WOA2. Well made of cotton covered cable, and all the colours matched the wiring diagram in the manual! Just had to correct a couple of connectors and it fell into place.

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5 hours ago, woa2 said:

I used Autosparks for a wiring loom for my Ford WOA2. Well made of cotton covered cable, and all the colours matched the wiring diagram in the manual! Just had to correct a couple of connectors and it fell into place.

I spoke to autosparks a while ago but they were unable to help as I don’t have the original loom to use as a pattern. 

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3 hours ago, 67burwood said:

I spoke to autosparks a while ago but they were unable to help as I don’t have the original loom to use as a pattern. 

On the WOT6 that I was involved in restoring, I rewired it myself and it is quite a simple system. When you put the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, just use trailer cable and that will suit all your needs. The instrument panel is dead easy to access.

regards, Richard

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27 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

On the WOT6 that I was involved in restoring, I rewired it myself and it is quite a simple system. When you put the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, just use trailer cable and that will suit all your needs. The instrument panel is dead easy to access.

regards, Richard

Hi Richard

I have contemplated wiring it myself and may still do so but I wanted to ad a few upgrades, such as converting it to an alternator, its not running an original engine so I don't mind the upgrade, also wanted to ad indicators, hazards and possibly a hidden USB port, obviously if the truck was more original I would leave as is but as a time saver if I could find a mobile auto electrician I'd certainly be interested in getting a quote.

Regards Seamus

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