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Motleyholt

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About Motleyholt

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  • Location
    Bedfordshire
  • Interests
    Mountain biking, rc model making,
  • Occupation
    Hgv repair and restoration

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  1. I also had the same suspicion, my Land Rover series 2 with series 3 wings fitted has 4 headlights also but there is a switch to turn 2 off. It could just be because it makes it difficult to check the headlamp aim at test. I'll just disconnect the wire. Shame as the land rover is lovely to drive with 4!
  2. Update night, several more jobs either completed or progressed. Some time ago I ordered the original type of alternator belt, it's a tripple v belt all in one. The engine manual states either a 3v belt or 4 individual matched belts. The original belt is an odd length and I would have needed to order 10 as a minimum order! So I opted for the next size up as the safest option as there is plenty of adjustment. In hindsight I could have gone the next size down but it works fine and there is adjustment left. Next was to change the oil in the second part of the gearbox that deals wi
  3. Had a look this afternoon and have only got the smaller fittings, sorry. Haven't had much playtime this week, just a bit of blasting and priming. Hopefully be more progress next week.
  4. I'll have a look on the spare cab and bits of chassis. If I find any I'll let you know.
  5. This link is a bit more straight foward to understand. https://movingon.blog.gov.uk/2020/12/09/ban-on-tyres-over-10-years-old-for-heavy-vehicles-and-some-minibuses/ It appears they dropped the 10 year rule on psv's unless they are single wheel at the rear. I suppose, as zero five two said, they couldn't read the date between the tyres. "Using old tyres on historic vehicles The new regulations exempt non-commercial vehicles aged 40 years and older from these requirements. However, you should get all tyres of all ages regularly inspected by a competent person. This shoul
  6. My apologies the wording is not used commercially for the carriage of goods. My bad. It has to be said the testing manual is very vague on the subject with no mention of exemptions and the requirement for psv's. I have a test for a civy truck test on Tuesday so will see if I can get a definitive article in writing from the tester.
  7. Shame but at least you have a good one for referance should you take it on. Otherwise you have a lifetime supply of spares. What are the problems on the rough one?
  8. EDIT: There are a few errors in this post, see following posts for the right info. The ten year tyre rule currently only applies to the front wheels, the reason is if a back tyre blows it is very unlikely for the vehicle to lose control especially as there is another tyre with it. Unless the vehicle is registered as a PSV in which case all tyres must be less than ten years old, higher speed limit and passengers. I've had lots replaced on horse boxes and low use trucks. The testers have said there is a 40 year old exemption but were unsure if it needs to be registered as a historic vehicle
  9. I would assume it's over 3.5t? Will it be for private use only? Would be registered as a private heavy goods if it is and would need a HGV test each year. Unless you convert to a camper then it's just a car test but I've heard that registering as a camper can be difficult these days.
  10. Very nice I cosidered a Martian before opting for one and a half Foden's. One from Crouch's. Best of luck, I'll be following its progress. Are you intending to restore both?
  11. Lol absolutely nothing wrong with them at all, used them for years. A new electric tester gives so much more info and allows testing of all the new breeds of battery. As well as testing the charge output from the vehicle. Besides it makes it easier for your roadside assister to flog you a battery when the screen says bad and replace. Even though a good charger will fix it with no problem.
  12. I think it's a British thing, just take all the parts you have mix them up, take a couple out, add some extras and bung it back together. I don't believe much has been done on my Foden since it was built due to the milage it has or rather hasn't covered. Yet it amazes me the half hearted way in which it was put together. Possibly a sign of the times in the late seventies with industrial unrest etc. It's a good design, probably quite advanced in its day with air brakes and air operated transfer box and so on. It's just not got the attention to detail that we all now expect. I have no idea what
  13. Cycling is key with modern batteries to stop sulphation. The ctek's and equivalent chargers will discharge to a certain level and recharge periodically. But with the smaller maintenance chargers you want to start with a good charged battery and then it will last for years. Most of our older vehicles will have no drain when standing and also more than likely have an isolator. I tested a customers battery that had been untouched for two years, but stored clean and dry, and it was perfectly servicable just needed a charge. For the more modern vehicles if not isolated, grab a multi meter, set it
  14. Some of the modern brake grease is rubber friendly as used in modern calliper sliders and assemblies, would recommend checking the label or looking up the specs on the Internet. You should find each types potential uses and limitations. The most common mistake I see is copper grease used with rubber components, which very quickly turns rubber to mush.
  15. Thanks you, I'll look them up tonight whilst I'm ordering some paint. What are people's views on paints? Go with a more old fashioned or modern two pack? They appeared to have been rather stingy with the paint at the factory, there is next to no paint behind the front cab corners, no signs of primer either. The heater boxes were hammerited then sprayed over DBG once assembled to the cab. I would like to give the parts a decent life expectancy after I've rebuilt them. So any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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