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    Mountain biking, rc model making,
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    Hgv repair and restoration

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  1. Hi all, time for a quick update. After a break in Cornwall I returned to a mass of customer MOT'S. After last year when all tests stopped for several months they now are all piled up together. So progress on the Foden has been slow to non existent. The donor box got robbed of parts and they were rebuilt into mine, took a bit of persuading to split the donor. Jack's, pry bars and a big copper hammer. gaskets were measured. Gasket sheet selected and ball pein hammer at the ready. The centre cut out was then used to make the selector housing Gasket. Reassemble syncro and fit Gasket to studs. As the manual would say reassembly is the reverse of disassembly..... As the air valve above the box is more inaccessible it got the full refurb. The exhaust seal was perished so a screw was fitted to replace the rubber button. All holes plugged and a blast off. Etch primed and then greened. Refitted. Will get another coat when the chassis gets a full paint in the future. Just need a log book now so I can fit number plates and go for a full test drive....... ......post arrived and an envelope from the DVLA. Excitedly I open it to reveal my new registration number, only to find all my original documents returned with a cover letter asking for the import docs????? And a a suggestion that I should send a bigger cheque to tax it as a commercial rather than a private HGV??? And they would like more dating proof even though the MOD release doc was included. A long wait ensued whilst I got through to someone at the DVLA and they were slightly bemused and said to return the docs with a covering letter explaining its not been imported, I really don't wish to use it commercially and the dating evidence is already there. Also included a close up pic of the chassis plate with chassis number and date of manufacture. Fingers crossed for take two. At least they sent an envelope to return it in.
  2. If a standard body, box, drop side, flat bed etc then private heavy goods vehicle is most likely. Assuming you are not using it for business? I have seen them as special vehicles and farm vehicles but these catagories usually restrict use and they are much stricter on these than in the past. Mot will be 3 axle hgv. You will need to Google your nearest hgv testing station which will be at a hgv garage now as the DVSA testing stations are gone now. Try asking anyone with a lorry where they take theirs. There is also a list on the DVSA as well. As for getting there i'm not certain, maybe call or email DVSA and enquire?
  3. A little excessive but the gearbox spares arrived today..... I now have an excess of pumps, pto's and props! Pulled the range change selector off to assess the parts I require. All good with no signs of heat damage. Interestingly it's a different design to mine being machined from steel rather than cast or more likely sintered. I think I know why mine was not working properly. One of the spring pins in the centre of the hub didn't move freely due to the hole being slightly off centre. If the pin doesn't retract then it will not engage. I think the donor box has been overhauled as the syncro teeth have been dressed which is common on a rebuild. So hopefully the syncro is a later type. The outer part of the syncro doesn't appear to have the friction coating that mine has either. If you can see it. So after my week away I will endeavour to bring all the good bits together. Then reassemble the spare box and fill it with oil for storage. You never know when you may need one!
  4. Should be the same as my Foden, fill in the following online and submit online https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/hgv-first-test-application-form-vtg1 You will need to insure on the chassis number too. You will receive an email telling you you can now book for a test. I took my Foden on trade plates as although you can go to an mot without tax I'm not sure how you stand with no number plates. Once you have your mot down load, print and fill out form V55/5 to register and tax it. You will need your military release doc, insurance, mot, copy of driving licence, cheque for admin and tax at the minimum. They may ask for more. If you have a hand book or manual will help for all the dimensions, weights should be on the vehicle vin plate. Otherwise you could call sv tech and they can probably do the paperwork for you for a price. They have just down rated a Pinzgauer for one of my customers to enable it to go for a class 7mot, same as a transit, which is much simpler than a hgv test. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  5. Yes I think it's very similar if not the same. Thank you for the info I'll be googling it to compare.
  6. Speedo unwrapped and reassembled today. Refitted to the dash. Everything else looks decidedly shabby now so did a little bit of cleaning. Much better. Just the other six gauges to clean and paint the bezels on. I replaced all the mounting screws on the dash and heater controls. Does any one have a supplier for the textured paint used on the dash and heater controls? The heater controls have lost most of their paint over the years. And cleaned all the bolts from the props, chassis and gearbox in readiness for its reassembly. And that's as much as I have achieved today.
  7. Finally found some time to do a little Foden work. Went for an instant gratification job by repairing the speedometer. It was working fine and then the milometer stopped working. Screws out and the dash pulls out about an inch. There are so many cables and air pipes it's a tight squeeze to undo the speedo cable. Then you have about three inches of space to play with. Two thumb screws, two bulbs and the speedo is out. Scraped off the soggy rubber gasket. Will need to find or make a replacement, maybe a thin O ring? Twist the bezel to release the glass, undo the two screws on the back. On turning the drive it quickly became apparent that the drive had seized and the gear had stripped. A pick was needed to release the clip. Luckily my spare dash has a speedo that donated a gear drive. Reassembled with a little fresh lubrication and it works perfectly again. Whist apart it seemed a good idea to paint the bezel. As the glass seemed to be properly stuck I opted for masking rather than possibly breaking it. A bit of prep and ready for a coat of paint. Ready for Reassembly tomorrow. Also serviced the pto switch which relentlessly leaked air each time it was used. Stripped Cleaned, replace seal, lubricated. And reassembled. Also whilst the dash was out I removed the blanking plate for the second pto switch. A future project is to fit the winch I have which requires a second hydraulic pump. The second switch had already been liberated from the donor cab and refurbished. Just need to connect from the switch to the connector under the cab. So several small jobs almost complete
  8. It's busy season with work so the Foden is having a little time off, but have been doing some form filling and hopefully will result in a couple of number plates. The handbook provided most of the information. With luck I've filled it in correctly and with enough information to get the job done. Time will tell. Think I've also found a gearbox for spare parts too.
  9. I hope there was an award for the most mirror like finish on a military vehicle😂. Incredible job well done though. Is there anything left to do?
  10. What is the gauge (thickness) of the metal? Looks to be a all one piece. I would say they made the two 90°bends at the bottom of the closed section, then bend and close the doubled up section and finally bend the second bend of the channel and the z bend Use the tool row 1, 5 across and then row 3, 1st across to make the folded flat section. And most likely the tool on row 1, 2nd across to do the rest. Although it may need the last tool depending how close together the bends are. At the very least it gives you an idea of what's possible and how these things were made.
  11. Have you a picture showing the channel from the end ? To see how it's been formed. If you have a local sheet metal shop they may be able to form it in a long length for you to cut to size. If you were a bit closer I would give it a go on the brake press assuming I had the tooling.
  12. Continued in the restoration section https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/42956-foden-fh70-refurb-restoration/
  13. Gearbox saga continued..... So I decided that it should be possible to strip the epicyclic range change/overdrive unit in situ. So on Monday the front prop was dropped, the prop from the gearbox to transfer box removed, selector removed (again!) And the air valve above removed. Front prop Transfer box prop It's not essential to mark and refit props in the same place as all the components will be balanced separately, but it's good practice and there is less chance of things coming loose especially if there is any corrosion. Especially true with wheels. Dam that short prop is heavy. Air valve Selector The cross member was dropped as it has a mounting that stops the housing being removed. This was harder than anticipated as it's held with close fitting bolts. They look to be custom made and fitted to reamed holes. Took some serious penetrating oil, air gun and a lever to extract them. There was still quite a lot of moisture in the oil when drained even though it's already been changed. But this may be due to there being a step at the front of the casing that stops complete draining. So there is some surface rust on the inside. All the casing nuts were removed and the case was ready to simply be slid off the studs.....not. It was properly stuck and I had to employ the chain puller again, tension was applied and then the copper mallet strategically used and with a bang it came free. A couple of nuts were left on so it didn't drop on my head. And finally the insides were outside. Strap was just incase as I wasn't sure how much the rear gearbox mount was supporting, not a lot was the answer. The selector shaft is on the right, syncro hub in the middle and the epicyclic gears to the left. The synchro is the part I'm most interested in so that was stripped off with the selector shaft. The syncro ring either has a coating on or its collected metal from the syncro cone. If it's coated it's coming off. Anyone know if it's a coating or all needs cleaning off??? The syncro cone has been working hard and has a lot of surface cracking, which you may just about be able to see. Everything else seems to be in excellent condition apart from some light surface rust. All the important bits are clean and intact. So now I'm looking for syncro parts Baulk ring syncro cone Nato No. 2520-99-825-3460 part No. 050-471-03 Cone outer syncromesh Nato No. 2520-99-828-3814 part No. 050-778-00 If that fails I'll go get the local gearbox and hope the bits I need are in good condition.
  14. Thank you John, much appreciated, this may be invaluable as you will see in the next post......
  15. On the grounds that there was a very slim chance that a pressure regulator may be affecting the range change I decided it should get a strip and service. As every other valve has needed attention it was deemed a good idea regardless. It's just held by the copper pipe work, two unions unscrewed like new and the third wouldn't budge. Luckily the pipe was only short so was unscrewed at the other end and removed with the valve. nñ Just four unc screws and it comes apart. Above the diaphragm all was clean but below the moisture from the air tanks had taken its toll. Clean up time Smear of rubber grease as a corrosion preventative and back together. Here's where I let the side down as I neglected to take the last pic so I'll edit that in tomorrow! Its actually more of a pressure relief valve rather than a regulator. As it stops air circuit five filling until all the tanks are up to minimum working pressure. I assume a safety thing as you can't operate the clutch so can't drive. After the valve opens circuit five will reach the same pressure as all the others. So to sum up it needed doing but isn't going to fix the range change.
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