Asciidv Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Steve, I take it that you are going to advance the cutting edge forward of the main block by a thou or two before attempting to cut? Can I also ask about the governor. You always imagine that a governor is designed to maintain constant engine speed, but in a truck this would be rather a hindrance! Does it just prevent over revving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyw304 Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I am thinking you may need a tiny bit (1 degree) of rake/relief (forget what it's called?) on that cutter, or else it won't cut. I had my valve seat cutters sharpened some time ago and think that was the angle. Too much and it bites in a leaves marks. Jarrod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7VHU Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 (edited) Hi Steve, will you be using tappet to regulate dept of cut (if pilot of cutter is set to same length as valve? A continuing inspiration to those of us who think some things are near impossible : ) Peter Edited October 14, 2022 by 7VHU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 Hi Chaps! Thanks for all of your comments. You are right Barry, it should be proud of the surface or it won't cut but no more than a thou or two, I should think. If it were any more, then I could get waviness in the seat. I am relying on the non-cutting surface to control the depth as it comes into contact so that the edge only takes off the high spots. Some rake/clearance is also a good idea Jarrod. I have touched the edge with an oil stone but there is nothing to stop me taking a couple of thou off lower down to give me that clearance. I hadn't thought of that, Peter, but I don't think it will be an issue. The tool is only there to scrape the surface a little bit and clean it up and as long as the cutting edge does not protrude too far I should be able to stop before I cut too much. I have never done this before so I shall just have to suck it and see! The governor is more of a speed limiter and should do nothing until the maximum allowed speed is reached. It should then close a butterfly in the inlet manifold to stop over-speeding. I believe that it will govern to that road speed as long the driver keeps his foot down. I have never driven a governed vehicle before as both the Dennis and Thornycroft have the butterflies removed. I don't have the governor linkage or butterfly for this one either although I might make up the casings for appearance' sake. Steve 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 Possibly a little late now, but one approach to the clearance angle issue would be to shim the blade back in the slot (away from the axis) when turning it on the lathe , then remove the shim so that it is closer to the axis for cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted October 15, 2022 Author Share Posted October 15, 2022 I came across this super Peerless Lorries Ltd badge on EBay. Post war company for selling off surplus Peerless lorries and spare parts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 Odd to use a coronet for "peerless" as it is a sign of rank of the peerage 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 We have had an interesting weekend with a definite milestone reached. The aim this weekend was to get the engine into the chassis and safely out of the way. First job was to put the wheels on the ground for the first time. A vehicle at last which rolls and steers! We got the engine out on its stand. It will never look this clean again. Then the puzzle of how to sling it safely and without damaging anything. And it is off the deck, testing my splicing ability. Down we go! Tim fitted the bolts previously prepared by Dad who had machined the numbers from the heads and cut them to length. It's in! Great joy all round! We fitted the starting handle next as we really wanted to give it a swing. When fitted to the other chassis, the misalignment was hopeless but fortunately for us, with just a bit of shim, it aligned beautifully. We all had a go! We had a brief 'Oh dear' moment when we realised that the end of the crankshaft was very close to the crossmember which would stop us dropping the clutch in. Fortunately, as you can see, we managed to wangle it in through the gap and get just enough space to rotate it onto the shaft. Phew! Then it was time to sort the valves out. Number one valves were already ground in nicely and sealed up. Number two, however, was no good so I took out my seat cutter and had a go with it. After quite a lot of fiddling to get the rake angle on the cutting edge just right and playing with the depth of cut, it worked quite well and I sorted out both valves. The seats were both offset and you can just see that the tool is beginning to cut on the rhs. I kept going until I had a continuous cut not less than 1/8" wide and then lapped the valves in again. They worked out OK and I am very pleased. Number 3 and 4 remain for my next visit. At the end of the day, the lorry was safely back inside with two pots sorted and the handle fitted. Once the other two cylinders are done, we can start hanging bits on it and getting them out of the way. Then we really will feel like we are making progress. A good day! Steve 🙂 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 (edited) Now that the engine is in, we are getting very close to hanging bits back on it. We have quite a lot in store and ready to go but one thing we haven't tackled yet is the oil top-up pump which is a 1 gallon tank hung on the side of the engine with the pump driven by a worm from the cam shaft. This is the one on the armoured car at Bovington. And this is ours. It is rather scruffy and there is something missing from the top, judging by the hole. Also, three of the mounting brackets have been broken off and a previous owner has welded some tabs on to replace them. Two deliveries beneath the empty hole. The filler hole and the empty hole which, we determined, should contain a hand pump. First job was to pull it apart and give it a de-gunging and a clean. This is the suction filter. Gosh it was horrible! That is the engine driven pump on the right and the base of the hand pump in the middle. Dad volunteered to run everything through the paraffin tank. Edited October 31, 2022 by Old Bill 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 (edited) We decided to start with the tank. You can see the tags which have been welded on. I wouldn't have tried this as welding old aluminium is very tricky. However, as they had been done, I marked them out and cut them to profile. The brackets are very slender and I don't hold out much hope for their survival. We shall see. Machining a lot of the weld away to give clearance for the nuts won't help much either. The suction strainer screwed into the bottom to meet the pump. That had seen better days as well. A bit of new gauze soon remedied it, however. The pump suction valve just needed a clean up. Repacked the drive shaft gland. The cap on the delivery banjo had split at some time so I made a new one of those up. And the pump is ready to fit. Now, the missing hand pump. Looking at the manual, it seems quite a straightforward device. However, the pump base casting has two outlet ports which feed down through the two legs and out of the bottom of the tank. This seemed odd but, unusually, the engine has two seperate sumps without a balance pipe so one port must feed each end. The question then arises as to how you control them? Edited October 31, 2022 by Old Bill 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 (edited) A closer look at the pump on the Sandstone Estates lorry gives another clue in that the pump handle has an arrow on the top and a square pump spindle. This suggests to me that you twist the handle to the front or rear sump and that the square rotates the pump to face the appropriate port. Ingenious, if a lot of extra work! Before getting stuck into the pump, I made up the top cover plate. This has a cavity underneath to align with the top of the pump itself. Then the valve block. This has a single hole in the side to face the relevant port and a thread to allow the valve seat to be screwed in. It pushes into the pump base casting as a close sliding fit as there are no seals on the oil delivery side. It can be rotated to allow the port to face either outlet. The top of the pump cylinder has a square hole so that the spindle can engage with it. Then the pump cylinder itself. The top four holes are for the set screws which connect it to the cap. The larger holes are to vent the top of the piston. The piston has a groove for an O-ring. I know it is not prototypical but I don't know what was there. The handle is a silver soldered fabrication (of course!) To create the arrow, I fretted one out and soldered it onto the top. The Bovington Peerless has a raised arrow so I am happy to do it this way. Piston and spindle, ready to fit! Edited October 31, 2022 by Old Bill 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 (edited) The bottom sleeve of the pump needed a valve seat so that was a nice turning job. Just waiting for a strainer. The strainer appears to be a dome of gauze in the manual so I had to have a go at that. I turned up a dolly and a ring, annealed the brass and pressed it through. I trimmed the gauze off and soldered it on and another part ticked off. The tube was attached to the sleeve with silver solder and then pickled for a couple of hours. I did give some thought to the alignment so that the handle would point left to right when the ports are aligned. Ready for assembly. And into the tank. Interestingly, it all aligned which had been a great concern. I finished the reassembly process after cutting lots of gaskets and washers. All is well and we have another lump to fit the next time we are all together. Now I must get on with the oil sight feeds! Steve🙂 Edited October 31, 2022 by Old Bill 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 Steve, just beautiful work and a lot of clever thought behind how the pump should work. The only thing that crosses my mind is that as everything is clean and oil free at the moment I would be very tempted to have the brackets TIG welded on better than they are, so that there will be no chance of fracture in the future. Also, the weld could be built up so that the brackets look like an integral part of the casting like the original lug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 http://www.e-m-p.biz/classic-cars/ have done some almost magical repairs on bits of our 1916 Dennis (and the 1905 car) with laser welding of ancient aluminium. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 Hi Chaps. Many thanks for your thoughts regarding the brackets. I am sure that you are right and that they won't survive for very long. I think I shall leave them for the time being though and just see how it goes. At least I now have a furher course of action for when they do fail. In the mean time, I have been very fortunate to have a few days in Devon to press on with reassembly work. The first thing I found was that Father has made up and fitted the nuts missing from the timing case cover so that one is ticked off! Tim was there for the first day so we unloaded the radiator from my car. It is a heavy lump! Tim then took the insulating bushes I had made and fitted them into their guide castings before fitting them in turn to the inlet manifold. He cut out some gaskets and the first part was on! The carburettor weighs 19lbs and has its own mounting bracket on the back. These were the two studs on the side of the engine which I thought were intended to carry it. However, they are too far apart! The hand throttle lever bracket does, however, fit on them. Once I had put it into place, it became obvious that there was a tapped hole to locate the carb. Rather peculiarly it appears that there should be a second hole but at some time in the past, the casting had been cut off! With the carb mounted on its flange, I could see a gap of 1/8" behind it and felt that there would be room for an additional mounting plate. Father made this up with two studs brazed into place. This has worked satisfactorily so it has been removed for painting. It does look nice in place at last! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 (edited) I took the opportunity to fit the magneto base. And then did a trial fit of the magneto itself. Unfortunately, it appears that my strap extension exercise was insufficient so I will have to do it again. Oh well. Dad has painted up the oil level tap handle so that was hung on the side. I fitted the level taps to the underside of the sump. You may remember that there are two seperate sumps so there are two taps linked together. Using the original linkage to check for length, I cut and soldered the replacement to length. Success! Water pump next and, as you can see, two mounting studs were missing. These were made up and fitted. Then I dug the pump out from its hiding place. Dad overhauled it long ago but had completely forgotten about it! We then realised that a spigot was missing. We weren't even sure that it existed! Tim went through the old photos and found it so I kept looking until it turned up. With the manifold fitted and a bit of hose, it was all mounted successfully. I did use jubilee clips though. They look horrible but will seat the hose ready for when I make up some nice brass ones. And then the oil pump! That mounted successfully but the tapped holes in the crank case for the fittings need cleaning out and I had left the taps in Leicester so they will have to wait until next time. Now the radiator. Dad is ahead of the game again and has made up the mounting pins and got hold of some stainless steel screws for the water manifolds. Edited November 6, 2022 by Old Bill 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 (edited) A trial fit of the manifolds. Thank goodness for the chain block! Success! This water pipe connects the pump to the bottom of the radiator. The drain plug in the pipe is shot so I must make up a replacement. The hose to the manifold steadies the rad for the time being and I took the opportunity to fit the overflow pipe. What else can we fit? Dad had painted up the silencer brackets so we attached them to the end of the silencer and hung it on the chassis. No reason why we shouldn't fit the clutch. This is the main release bearing for which Father had made up two new bolts. But now the googly. I tried to mount the spring but, as you can see, it is nowhere near the thread. It appears that the leather lining is slightly too thick and with a couple of bumps as well, it is keeping the clutch out by about an inch. Not quite sure how I am goint to resolve this one but something to ponder. In the mean time, we really feel that we have made some progress! Steve 🙂 Edited November 6, 2022 by Old Bill 14 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7VHU Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 Hi Steve, you might need a couple of [ ] clips to hold the spring compressed until you get the nut started. The 1930s Dennis’ have a gearbox mounting bolt and spring with same problem. Google Land-Rover steering relay spring replacement. Peter 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 Thank you Peter, what a brilliant idea! I love the quote at the bottom! As you can see, it is a mighty spring and an uncontrolled release could be very exciting indeed! Steve 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7VHU Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 But with the clutch engaged so far out, is there enough travel left to release it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 Hi Pete. No, I wouldn't be able to disengage it so far out. I need to dress the leather back to get it to sit further in by about an inch. Current thinking is to set it up in the gap of the Colchester and then either using a bar in the toolpost as a datum, dress it off with a rasp or possibly even set up a sander in the toolpost and rotate it against it. Next time I pay a visit, I plan to spend some time eyeing up the job. Mounting a sander in the toolpost might be a challenge! Spark Plugs! Looking ahead, we are going to need some spark plugs very soon so that we can seal it up. The question is, how do I select the spark plug type? All of the Google references I have found so far say that it is imperative to start with the manufacturer's recommendation but, unfortunately, I don't have one! I have spoken to The Green Spark Plug Co and they tell me that the book calls for Lodge ST 22mm plugs but our valve caps have 18mm threads so those would not fit. Green supplied us with 'Champion 7' for the Dennis and these have been fine in what must be a very similar engine. Unfortunately again, they are out of stock. In my readings, I have found that some plugs have resistors built in but that we must not use that type with a Magneto. Also, some have a copper core which is not for conductivity but to keep them cool. We don't want that type either as our engines all run very cool and need the hottest plug we can get to stop them fouling. It is an interesting question and, to be honest, I don't suppose it is very critical for us. I would value some opinions if anyone is prepared to share them please! Steve 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 D16's! Universal low cost plug for side valve engines. As approved by all my Dennis's and the Merryweathers. Until you have just mentioned it, I was unaware that you could obtain plugs with a built in resistor. I always thought that the resistor was in the plug cap? I am sure that if I googled it there would be a wealth of information on why a resistor is sometimes used, but I always believed that the purpose of the resistor was to increase the RC time constant, so that the rise time of the voltage at the plug tip was increased to reduce electrical interference. As you won't be fitting a wireless to your Peerless cab, I don't think that this will be an issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 You might install one 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7VHU Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 Modern motor cars and commercial vehicles, Arthur Judge, 1927… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 Hello Steve, I agree with Asciidv, I use D16's in my Napier Lion with no problems, if nothing else they will give you a very good safe starting point. And thank you for the wonderful work you guy's do, it is very important to see what can be achieved. Andy 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.