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  1. Mornin Radiomike7, You are right with the similarity of the valve positions with the Indian, this engine seems to be earlier and more industrial than automotive but with the lack of any ID it maybe a prototype. It has a very unusual adjustable cam timing/lift system that I have not found the reason for yet. Thanks for looking. Andy
  2. Good evening everybody, As a long time reader of this forum I have always been impressed by the work and knowledge shown by all the people involved in the restorations, I am now in the position of asking all you knowledgeable folk a question, can anybody identify this engine that I have recently found, it is about 1000cc, it is metric and has no makers mark or markings of any kind, it has a place for a starting handle, a clutch in the engine oil and no forced lubrication, could it be a WW1 era generator or pump engine ? Any ideas or info would be greatly appreciated. Andy
  3. Good evening gentlemen involved in trucks with worm drive diff's, I am a regular reader of all of these great build's and have a similar interest, the great photo's of the diff build got me thinking about it's design, I would like to ask you guy's who drive vehicles with these diff's, do you get any feeling of "braking" when lifting off the throttle due to it's design ? Andy
  4. Evening everybody, I am so impressed with every aspect of your post Andrew, what you are doing with these 2 vehicles is amazing ! I spend my time rebuilding 100 year old plus engines that you have to sleeve, re-cut, re-bore and weld up and a million other thing's just to keep them alive and you need a chain saw just to take them home ! stunning ! Thank you for posting now and over the next few years ! Andy
  5. Hi Simon, Thanks for sharing your project with us, it is without doubt the most interesting engine restoration on the web. Andy
  6. racer

    Errol

    Hi Errol, I recently bought a 1913 Chalmers overhead inlet engine that had sat for 60 years and became stuck, luckily this engine and probably yours had cast iron pistons which is better in stuck terms than alloy, I poured in kerosene in all the bores and was able to apply a constant load on top of the piston with visible water ingress and rust, after a few days I was able to add further load as the piston had stated to move. Due to the overhead inlet it was fairly easy for me but if you can bolt a lever arm to the flywheel and add a load by maybe a jack or ram and then leave the engine for a few days you may find it has moved, the cast / cast sticking seems to be overcome better than the alloy rotting scenario. Good luck with your great find. Andy
  7. Evenin Steve, The only place I have seen that anti slip strip is on the outer diameter of ERF wheel trims from the 1960's, it is where the driver put his foot when getting into the cab, if you know any classic truck enthusiast's they may have a wheel trim with centre damage that they will let go to a worthy cause. The truck is looking good, nearly there. Andy
  8. Hi bobs1918, It looks very like a speedo drive that would have been driven from the back of the gearbox or the propshaft, Stewart-Warner made something similar. Andy
  9. Just found this 1912 Lambert friction drive truck on the favourite auction site, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-Lambert-Truck-/222279131203?forcerrptr=true&hash=item33c0de6043:g:4esAAOSwgmJX1BuT&item=222279131203 I am not sure of any military usage but still very interesting. Andy
  10. Evenin Dan and everybody, I have been in this position on a couple of early engine rebuilds, as long as you don't have any pits in line with a rusted-in ring set for instance, a few pit's cause very few performance and reliability problems and as has already been mentioned these engines run very low compression's and a little more oil around won't hurt, if you have one particularly poor cylinder think about boring that further and getting a piston to the next size but weighing the same, are you able to get a cylinder wall thickness test done for piece of mind ? Keep up the good work. Andy
  11. Afternoon everybody, We called in to the Tracks to the Trenches event yesterday and found a great selection of engines, rolling stock and many other WW1 items to see, we had a wonderful reception and were parked up next to a RR armoured car replica, This is a great event, you can get up close and see another side to WW1, it wasn't just shooting that was done ! Andy
  12. Hi 8-10 and all, The photo of the engines at Norton in Hales is wonderful, amazing really, I live 4 miles away from the Hinds Head ! Thanks 11th for your interest, you can find a bit more on the Chalmers in it's recent history here, http://forums.aaca.org/topic/213843-1913-36-model-17-in-the-uk/ Andy
  13. Hi Rick and all, Well done for the 100th celebrations, it is a great feeling to have a vehicle that has got to such an amazing milestone, I have also been lucky enough to have a vehicle with this milestone, my 1913 Chalmers car is now regularly sprinted and hillclimbed and is a lot of fun. nothing like the job you have had with the Albion, at the start line of the famous Shelsley Walsh hill at 101, I have a 9 year wait for the 100th birthday of my 1925 Napier Lion engine, More 100th's please. Andy
  14. Hi Ben, Great work as usual, I hope you don't me throwing an idea into mix, because of the extensive corrosion on the casing, drilling and then bolting the new carrier to it may just break the weak alloy, how about making an "upper" carrier and then bolt the 2 new parts together around the casing's with maybe a cushioning material in between ? you are then just gripping the box with very little point loadings. Keep up the excellent workmanship, a very enjoyable read, thank you. Andy
  15. Hi Ben, I have had to replace gears in my 1913 Chalmers car, google these guys, Sovereign Gears Ltd, they looked after me and the gearbox is now like new. Andy
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