smashycrashy Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 I looked in all the manuals I have access too and can't find it. What is the proper procedure for using the hand crank on a Ferret? Im assuming it should be in neutral, and master switch on, what else needs to be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) this after a night in the pub, so bear with me! first of all i have started my ferret once from cold with starting handle and its bloody hard work! left hand engine deck up, prime carb 3 pumps throttle pedal maybe first position on choke have some one by carb ready to catch engine if she starts i presume u have a starting handle? if u have thrown your back out your stuffed , best option ! go to costco buy 2 new batteries and wack em in if the old ones got discharged on boat they are knackered might as well replace em now,by the way when engine hot piece of pee to start with handle.:cool2: Edited June 16, 2012 by griff66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 Nothing else? Just hand crank clockwise until she starts? and you're done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 ignition on, in neutral, hand brake on, you get the idea then turn that handle bud:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Had someone come over to help crank, he could get it cranking continous for about 20 seconds before he pooped out. I had the choke out, in neutral, squirted a bit of brake cleaner into the carb, master switch on, tried for a hour before I called it for the time being. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 (edited) told u it was easy,:cool2: try no choke and 3 pumps of accelerator pedal then give it a go try ,also try priming carb by operating fuel pump lever 2 or 3 times . Edited June 17, 2012 by griff66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Might be worth pouring a bit of fuel stright into the carbs, rather than mess with brake cleaner, yes we know it works but is a bit nasty. I did try spraying fuel in from a spray type bottle , it worked a treat BUT for best protection of eyebrows use at arms length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) fuel run into the carb will always assist with the starting of the old girl and can help a tired fuel pump to work too.. Edited June 18, 2012 by paulob1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) if u cant start it by hand after all advice given here, charge / replace batteries, u can tow start them i suppose engage 2nd gear return lever to n position make SURE fwd/rev lever is in position you are going to be towed in! have u got copy of user hand book for scout car, ferret, all marks if not get one ! Edited June 18, 2012 by griff66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Shouldn't be too difficult.... As others have said though, if the batteries are really no good, then I doubt it'll start... If the batteries are just a bit weak or just flat, it should fire up... As for knackering, try hand-cranking a Saracen!,.... Done it a few times now.... And that IS hard work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 nah its only 2 more cylinders!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G506 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I've never tried starting a Ferret on a starting handle, but good advice when hand cranking any engine is never grip with your thumb; keep your thumb alongside your index finger. Once had an engine kick back and break my wrist! :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 As others have said though, if the batteries are really no good, then I doubt it'll start... If the batteries are just a bit weak or just flat, it should fire up... Ah well I think the batteries are dead I thought hand cranking would overcome that but I guess not. I will have to wait for the back to get better to get the batteries out. Anything special about getting the battery out from under the air cleaner housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 large jubilee clip off pipe then slacken bolt between air cleaner and hull, air filter will lift out be careful it should have about a litre of engine oil in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 large jubilee clip off pipe then slacken bolt between air cleaner and hull, air filter will lift out be careful it should have about a litre of engine oil in it And watch your back, it's BLOODY heavy especially when knelt on sharp ferret interior :-) Recommend knee pads. Coincidentally I didn't have a prolapsed disc until I got the ferret, coincidence? :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Back was feelin' stronger today so I took a crack at the air cleaner and got it off (sloooowly) Question on putting batteries back in, in series, When I took them off I treated each independently, took of Neutral then Positive on both sides then went to the other battery and did the same. But was thinking that might not be the right way. When putting them back in should I put positive on both batteries and then Neutral on (air cleaner side first?) and then the other neutral on. Or does it just not matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) negative lead -n- should be removed first when working on batteries and vice versa. Edited June 19, 2012 by griff66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I'd connect pos on bat 2 (under gen panel) first, then connect interconnect cable from neg on batt 2 to pos on bat 1 (under airbox) then Finally, connect neg on batt 1, which goes to ground. Never work on either battery without disconnecting Batt 1 neg to ground. I have a cut off switch at this point - neither battery connected to ground, so no worry if accidentally shorting to chassis with a spanner whilst tightening up the clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 I'd connect pos on bat 2 (under gen panel) first, then connect interconnect cable from neg on batt 2 to pos on bat 1 (under airbox) then Finally, connect neg on batt 1, which goes to ground. Never work on either battery without disconnecting Batt 1 neg to ground. I have a cut off switch at this point - neither battery connected to ground, so no worry if accidentally shorting to chassis with a spanner whilst tightening up the clamps. Thanks, that's perfect. I had come to a similiar conclusion after doing a little manual drawing (I hadn't worked with batteries in series, thus my ignorant question) but I hadnt determined yet (due to work) which cable was the interconnecting one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Every time I disconnected the batteries I always traced which cable went back to the earth terminal on the distribution box nect to the fuel filter....and disconnect that first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Every time I disconnected the batteries I always traced which cable went back to the earth terminal on the distribution box nect to the fuel filter....and disconnect that first. Thats a good idea, one way to know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch 22 LBDR Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I find it best to tape up the ends once removed, I always for get witch one I should remove first.:blush: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlienFTM Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 With a bit of downhill, it is dead easy to push start a Ferret with three or four bodies to push. Probably possible on the flat: luckily the twice I needed to in 1976, each time we had a bit of downhill. Driver selects third gear (IIRC). Bodies push the WHEELS (less resistance to overcome than pushing the hull). Fluid in the flywheel starts to turn, turns the engine, job's a good 'un. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Agreed plus as stated u can tow start them not that i have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 ooh i didnt know they would tow start, just plonk them in gear and go, is that all thats needed...nothing else...I have a dodgy fuel pump on mine and am hoping a bt of bump starting will re invigorate it but not sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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