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BenHawkins last won the day on January 1 2019

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  1. I am sure manufacturing veteran lorry parts is the perfect way to make a small fortune; I just need a large fortune to start with. The punch tool has arrived safely from Andy. Fortunately I have been given a flypress but I need to set it up somewhere. The weather was good this weekend so we have done a bit more work towards building a Smithy at the bottom of the garden. Hopefully we can get the other walls built and a roof on in the spring. When the weather improves it is nice to roll the lorries out into the yard to work on. Linking up the steering and brakes would make this easier
  2. There are a few reasons I put the primer on first: 1. I find the pattern coat does not sand easily, clogging the sandpaper. The primer seems to be better in this respect. 2. Bondaprimer is quite thin and runs into any porosity left in the print. I know I should really run the print again if I can see a poor layer but as my patterns generally only need to be good for one casting it seems adequate. 3. I virtually always have something to prime that I have made in metal so I like to paint everything I can without cleaning the brush. Anyway, they are now in pattern coat and hav
  3. This week we have printed the parts for the larger pulley patterns on the speedo drive. These latest parts still need some more sanding and painting before the whole lot gets a coat of pattern coat.
  4. The Chinese long series 20mm end mill arrived so I have milled the header tank to length and given it a bit of a clean up with some wet and dry paper. I am not sure how polished the radiator should be. I have done some work on the fittings as well. The overflow pipe needs to be shortened but that will wait until I have fitted the filler cap. The filler cap just pushes into the tapered filler neck and is connected to the overflow pipe with a chain so it does not get lost. I am still trying to purchase 0.25mm tinplate for the gills in sensible quantities. It should c
  5. It is less deep than a War Office Subsidy 3 ton vehicle at 18 feet. Still planning the next garage. As there are no events on the horizon I have been trying to finish off as many small jobs as possible on the vehicles. Having bolted the speedometer to the dash a couple of months ago I pondered how best to link it up. My gearbox is from the early 1920s; the only difference from the original being the addition of a speedometer take off. It is quite corroded but probably repairable, however it does not match the speedometer ratio. The original speedometer (if fitted) would have been bel
  6. Thanks for all the information, I guess I will punch a couple of hundred out by hand and decide if I would prefer to automate it.
  7. Many automotive manufacturers were using the smaller across flats head sizes before it was adopted in the standards. There is a 1924 Commercial Motor article describing this but I have some evidence it was going on as early as 1906.
  8. I have started a conversation with a very knowledgeable solder dipper. He stated that for early radiators the tubes were usually solder tinned so the gills could be threaded on with flux; the assembly was then put in an oven where the solder would fix all the gills to tubes. With that information in place it explains why virtually no solder is visible on the gills of my 1908 Singer radiator. This radiator is the closest in construction (horizontal tube) and age (1908) that I know of. Dipping the whole tube would offer better corrosion protection.
  9. Merry Christmas! Thanks Andy for all your work on this. Tin plate seems like a good idea, my 1914 Dennis radiator showed some signs of tin or lead on the gills (possibly just solder) before I painted it. My 1908 Singer just has plain steel gills suggesting they were not dipped. I once tried a repair on a gilled tube with a propane torch so know that is a bad idea; the thermal mass of the gill is too low so they burn before the tube is heated enough to solder. A hot air gun will almost certainly be fine but I need to try that. The glamorous assistant purchased a White and Po
  10. I should think so, they look great. Sufficient coffee will also be expensive so I will have to wait until the steel stockholders reopen.
  11. Is bending the tips of the petals as simple as forming a flared hole before starting to cut?
  12. 3/32 but as you spotted I think the original was less.
  13. Thanks for everyone's effort on this. Here is a photo showing the recess on the profile from the underside on the "new gills" Here is the best image I have found of the gills used in 1908. I am only reproducing a very small amount of the photo as I am not certain of the copyright. I could easily convince myself that neither the circular (half toroid) feature or the turned over petals are present; I think both these features are to give consistent spacing (spacing looks fairly inconsistent in the photo).
  14. The glamorous assistant has finished the advent calendar well ahead of time. That is a full set of fasteners for the gearbox so she has moved on to fasteners for other parts. I have done more of the machining on the radiator castings. One lunchtime I picked up the tube plates which came in cheaper than expected; if you base your costings from online retailers, it is often rewarding how much cheaper you can get them from a company on your doorstep. I have to confess it was nice to be able to buy the 1/8BSW screws for the badge off the shelf. Unfortunately the
  15. Barry, the end mill only needs to cut just over 3". I have a 14mm end mill that will cut more than that; it has a 12mm shank and I use it with my Diemaster mill but it is not stiff enough for this job (and I don't have a 12mm R8 collet for the Bridgeport I am borrowing). There is no rush to complete the task so I will wait for the long series 20mm end mill to arrive. I can get on with machining the other casting, ordering tube plate material and other projects so there is no risk of thumb twiddling over the Christmas break. For the bolts we just mark a line on the blank with a marker pen
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