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About smashycrashy

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  1. I see, looking at "Ferret, Unit Repair" manual, I see what you mean, you are compressing everything down into the bottom of the wheel cylinder by putting pressure on the middle tooth and lining it up with the other two. Right now the banjo bolt is off because I was going in reverse order of the disconnect procedure in the manual, I'll reconnect and check for general functionality before reattaching.
  2. Interesting. The fingers will squash together? When I looked at them this morning I could only get movement outwards , I will try with something more than finger force but still be gentle.
  3. Levers of wheel cylinder and the tappets/actuators I need to spread out somehow to get wheel cylinder in. Any ideas of a tool/technique to use to get things spread out?
  4. Ive rebuilt the wheel cylinder, when trying to get the cylinder back in.. the 3 levers are hitting the tappets and it's stopping the wheel cylinder from getting in the right spot. Is there a trick for getting the tappets apart to get the wheel cylinder back in?
  5. So as I was pulling out the master cylinder it started functioning again, I had cracked the line on the left earlier and tried to pump the brakes, no joy, now when I removed both the cylinder moved fine. Would a blocked "breather" port (top of the refill spigot) cause this issue? Also, in trying to get the master cylinder back on I cant re-attach one of the lines. It is a metal line (the other isnt) and has very little movement, I cant get the threads started to get it back on. Im sure this is very silly to the more experienced but was wondering if there were any hints, tips or tricks
  6. Yes. My current plan is to hone it this weekend and rebuild it with the rebuild kit. If after honing I don't think its serviceable I will either buy a new one or get it re-lined (whichever I determine is fastest as Im trying to get this up and running by the end of May).
  7. For us Yanks, I also found someone who re-lines master cylinders and has specifically done a Ferret cylinder: http://www.brakecylinder.com/Gallery.htm
  8. There is corrosion around the boot and the lid of the master cylinder, loosening an outlet pipe got a little fluid coming out when I pressed the pedal but the pedal was still hard. I'll try a rebuild. I was trying to get the master cylinder out but the plate is stuck to it from the corrosion and then I lost power to my work area, I'll try again in the morning. Thank you.
  9. I do have a cylinder rebuild kit handy, guess I'll spend my time looking at the master cylinder first Thanks for the advice all, I'm not very good at this stuff yet but I am (slowly) learning. I was looking on ebay for a new master cylinder (just in case) but "Lockheed Master Cylinder" gets a phonebook and "Ferret Master Cylinder" gets nothing, I've been told they are fairly common, is there a part number or something else I should be looking for?
  10. Im now suspecting the brake vacuum servo, hard pedal, no change in brake operation once engine is started, I still think there is sticky brake on one side that is a different issue. I'll have to crack open the manuals and see what can be done to test and service the servo, but if it is bad does anyone have a source for spares? If ebay (I checked), link? Thanks in advance.
  11. I found it on the old Ferret Heaven archive page, I do not know how accurate the information is: "I have been told that there are NAPA kits that are the equivalent to the rebuild kits. The information that I have is as follows: (Please note that I have no actual first hand knowledge as I have not used these parts); Master cylinder rebuild kit: NAPA part 214 Wheel cylinder rebuild kit: NAPA part 152 " http://www.ferret-afv.org/oldfh/FH14.htm
  12. I just found the brake cylinder and master cylinder rebuild kit numbers for NAPA, I will check the brake cylinders in the morning.
  13. The data plate said Mk1/2 but that doesn't appear original (it is configured currently as a Mk 2/3 but it came with a Mk 1/2 turret), It is of unknown origin at this point (see my introduction thread for data plate and hull plate pics). I thought it was Canadian but there were supposedly no Mk 1/2 Canadian Ferrets. And talking to someone over there in the UK he said that was too soon for MoD release Ferret. I have the Ohio title so I'm sure it's been ~25 years and someone owned it before him from alabama I believe. It is in immaculate condition, every interior bin, Larkspur radios, lot
  14. Thanks for the info, we just had a big storm (well, big for California!) and my work area is too wet to work right now, I'll be pulling off the wheels and checking things out. It is, in general, very "gunky" around the wheel areas as the grease has leaked and accumulated over time. Here is a look at the engine running this morning: It's pretty much spotless.
  15. I have acquired a Ferret that has been relatively stationary for the past 25 years. The owner would pull it out of its shed once a month to run the engine otherwise it really wasn't driven (~350 miles in 25 years). The brake pedal is currently very "hard" and stuck in the "up" position. I've read the following regarding unsticking brakes: http://www.ferretforums.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=17&sid=891407cadfd8c9f5567b489bda5a93e8 And this as well: http://www.smokingairplanes.com/DAIMLERFERRETMAINTENANCEBRAKESCYLINDERWHEELHUBASSEMBLYENGINE.htm I posted over in Ferret heave
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