question Jeep dizzy keeps moving

[Rick W]

After a long time trying to get the jeep started after its winter lay up I discovered that the dizzy had jumped a few degrees again. This is despite it being done up tight. Anyone else come across this or is it a common adjustment?

[Nick Johns]

After a long time trying to get the jeep started after its winter lay up I discovered that the dizzy had jumped a few degrees again. This is despite it being done up tight. Anyone else come across this or is it a common adjustment?

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The distributor can only move if the clamp bolt is loose or the clamp plate locking bolt holding is missing, did you sort out the timing problem when the chain jumped on the sprockets?

Edited May 17, 2012 by Nick Johns

[Richard Farrant]

After a long time trying to get the jeep started after its winter lay up I discovered that the dizzy had jumped a few degrees again. This is despite it being done up tight. Anyone else come across this or is it a common adjustment?

 

If the distributor clamp is physically tight, then how do you know it has jumped a few degrees? If you are checking with an electronic tuner or such like, then maybe the points have closed a little since you last checked them. Problems starting since a lay up could be dirty points, not uncommon to get a slight haze on them. Could also be a fault in the auto advance mechanism.

[Rick W]

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The distributor can only move if the clamp bolt is loose or the clamp plate locking bolt holding is missing, did you sort out the timing problem when the chain jumped on the sprockets?

In retrospect I dont think the chain did jump, Im sure it was the dizzy moving again. Cant remember why I thought it was the chain jumping...

[Rick W]

If the distributor clamp is physically tight, then how do you know it has jumped a few degrees? If you are checking with an electronic tuner or such like, then maybe the points have closed a little since you last checked them. Problems starting since a lay up could be dirty points, not uncommon to get a slight haze on them. Could also be a fault in the auto advance mechanism.

 

I put a small paint mark on the dizzy housing, the cap and on the block, which when I looked had moved a few degrees clockwise. Moving it back so that the marks lined up it started up ok. Ive got an EI kit fitted. Auto advance mechanism?

[Nick Johns]

As I said previous If the distributor keeps moving then the bolt that holds the clamp plate onto the block is probably missing, it is difficult to see if it is there under the distributor

[Gordon_M]

Take out the clamp bolt and check the length versus the hole depth. I'll bet somebody lost the original bolt and replaced it with one just a hair longer, so it is bottoming out before it clamps

[deadline]

There is one bolt that holds the dist clamp to the block and another than squeezes the camp around the dist body.

 

It is possible that the clamp part around the dist body has stretched and therefore the looped ends are touching, not supplying any clamping force, or a very small amount. Look at the bolt that squeezes the camp and there should be at least 1/8th inch between the two loops.

 

If they ARE touching, the you can buy a new dist clamp or simply cut/grind a space between the loops and reinstall.

 

You could also have worn bushings in the dist that allow for to much slop and that affects the points and timing.

 

Dist rebuild kits are cheap, and it may be worth it to take out the dist and replace all the wear parts.

[Tony B]

Or go the whole hog and replace the distributor with a full electronic kit. No more timing problems or other standard ignition problems.

[Rick W]

Thanks guys, will replace the bolts with new ones to make sure, and the clamp. Tony, Ive got EI set in the dizzy anyway.

[Tony B]

I've got one coming for Katy, but having replaced the dizzy cap and the rotor arm, both worn then a bit of judicious emery on the points , re set and a new condensor. First push and away she goes. So much for six volt starting problems. :-D