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Everything posted by deadline

  1. The TM9-801 is pretty useless for repairs. It covers OPERATION and MAINTENANCE. And by maintenance that really only covers 'is it broke? Get a new one'. In early 43 the echelon system of maintenance was in full effect and the TM9 was stripped of any useful workshop info except daily/weekly/monthly service Checks. The March 43 TM10-1563 would be the last (well, there is an addendum to cover the fuel/water trucks) would be the one to get. If you stick with the 44/45 TM9 series you're gonna need AT LEAST FOUR books: TM9-801 Operation and Maintenance TM9-1801, Ordnance Maintenance Power Train, Chassis, and Bodies TM9-1802A Engine and Powerplant maintenance (this will also have DUKW info... so bonus?) SNL-G-508 Supply Catalog/Parts book. If you are going to rebuild the 270 you'll want TB9-1802A Fits and Tolerances. You can find PDF versions online for cheap. Most of them are online at http://www.tm9-801.com I say the TM10s are a better book, plus you only need 2: TM10-1563 Maintenance and TM10-1562 Parts
  2. Ongoing problems are minor: Leaking real axle seal Front CV boot constantly tearing unless you buy some really expensive neoprene ones Ground going bad... so many bad grounds. Oil filters are a minor pain... inverted design means leaks if not done properly. Ether assist is a god send... but new ether tanks can be spendy. Axle breathers clogging up and blowing out axle seals My 67 M35a2 was great fun. But you need next level tools.. even to change tires. Tires (in the US) are cheap and readily found. My biggest fear was a breakdown. Towing it home would cost thousands over any distance. Parts are available and plentiful... lots of mods.
  3. That is an easy repair. Can be brazed or welded back on.
  4. Next thing I would do is run a new, 00 or 000 ground cable from the engine to the battery Negative terminal. Basically run the entire circuit from the battery terminals. I know you said you checked grounds.. but all the easy stuff is done.. time to get creative. Run from the battery (+) to the coil, and add a new, shiny, just scrubbed off with sand paper and used dialectic grease ground to the battery (-).
  5. If I read the symptoms right all the plugs lose spark causing an engine cough then it runs normally? I'd bypass any switch in the cab and run the ignition right off the battery. Looking at the ignition circuit you have the ammeter, the IGN switch, IGN primary filter (depending on your year) then coil, Distributor and plugs. I'd run the Black wire from the coil (again assuming you have the correct color coded wires) to the battery (+) and then hit the starter. That would rule at any electrical issue aft of the firewall. If you need a wiring diagram: https://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/316.jpg
  6. Do you want a driver or closer to factory? There are some things that must be done to make it a driver that are not original. What to look for? That's a book in itself.... if you find a truck you like post photos. Things to look out for immediately: GMC270 motor (original, not civvy replacement). Original CCKW rims, not M35 rims/tires. Original bed not M35/M211/M135. Spare tire carrier in place, pintal hitch and rear bumpers in place. Tire condition... tires are $4000USD+. Accurate 7.50x20's are available, but are about $350USD each. Buy a HIGH QUALITY TM9-801 manual. The free ones are all black and white and low quality scans. I recommend this site: http://www.tm-ww2.com/index.php?cPath=24_34_59
  7. If it's an original engine buy it. You can sell the motor alone and most likely make some cash. If its a 216 then rebuilding it is going to be spendy. If it a later 235 then $1500 will do. The later 235 has pressurized and insert bearings.. only the 216 is a babbit/dipper motor.
  8. More photos of the chassis could help determine if the frame is stamped correctly or if there are donor parts. If its stamped 352 then I would expect to see a body and axle stamping after the SN. I'll have to check my TMs at home 'Shopnut' posted about SN 9991 and I found this on another site: "I have a CCKWX serial no' 9991-A1, your truck should have the blackout on the grill and have a civilian instrument panel. As to when built, I think late 1940 or early 1941, perhaps someone else on here could verify that." The dates sound right from another web site "CCKWX 353 5XXX A1 - so it should be a early January 1941 truck," Note -A1 is the body/axle config and both posts were able to state A1 (split axle, cargo body). So either keep sanding or possibly its a repaired part. TM10-1105 is the TM you are looking for. Portrayal press has it.
  9. My given name is Paul. If my previous post came across as combative that was not my intent... but jeeps and CCKWs did, for a time did use pretty much straight 30W mineral oil (as most pre-1940's cars did) and also detergent oil (aka 'additives'). So that was my confusion. I know that everyone has a mentor they trust and will take the word of a trusted friend over some random internet post. But Copper Strip Corrosion ASTM D130 is the test for oils to determine if they are 'bad' for synchro's. The standard required immersion in the test fluid at 100C for 3 hours then the same copper strip is read. That is the science behind the oil rating. Now the GL5 spec doesn't require this test, but since its a standard most will do it. Feel free to read up on it. There are many myths still running around... new oil formulations with low sulfur were wrecking camshafts (no, they were not.. cheap import cams were the problem) or old flat tappet motors were being wrecked due to low ZDDP level (no, flat tappet motors are still made and API oils protect them quite well) and two of my all time favorite: storing a crankshaft on its side will warp it (no, it won't) and any of the 'synthetic oil' myths.. there are just to many to list on that one. But again, people will cling to a group mentality rather than find out the answers because their friends say they heard it form 'trusted mechanic' that 'had hundreds of similar cases'. I've had GL5 oil in my jeep's tranny/transfer for over 5 years. my 1969 M35a2 had GL5 in it for over 20 years and the brass synchro's were fine. I am not worried in the least about the synchro's in my jeep.
  10. "In summery play safe, use straight 90 in your gearbox and transfer case, EP90 in the axles and straight 30 with no additives in the engine. Pete" That's just plain crazy talk... even original motors past 42 had detergent oil. 'Straight 30W with no additives' is mineral oil. Are you saying that we should run mineral oil and not a proven detergent oil? I'd don't call that safe, I call that an old wives tale. Also, EP additives need two things to harm brass: high heat (250F is the magic number) and water. Heat and water combine with the sulphur to create acid that eats the brass (at running speeds the water should boil off like in an engine... its when you stop and get condensate that the acid is formed). I'll leave with this tid bit: GL5 is used by the US Army in all M35a2's since the late 1980's. That's 30+ years of GL5 in synchronized transmissions. Absolutely no yellow metal issues have been incurred.
  11. What year/model is your GMC? Are you sure it wasn't put together in a 'Little Detroit' and the stencil applied there after reconstruction?
  12. EP oil is not going interfere with synchro's. The old (and it is a OLD) problem is that EP additives (sulfur and phosphorus) were used in places that generated to much heat, and in the presence of heat and water would make an acid and eat yellow metal. There are 'yellow metal' safe EP oils, but design changes also eliminated the high temps of the early gearboxes... so modern brass parts are safe. The force required to make use of the EP additives is far and above the little bit or friction generated by the synchro's meshing. Use the EP oil all around. It is not going to harm anything.
  13. AR850 tells you what the vehicle MUST have on it. So at the least you have some sort of official record. There are photos of vehicles with shipping cube stencils.. but they would not be 'factory' as most mid/late war jeeps/trucks were shipped in crates. Once in theater anything goes... local commanders had wide latitude as long as the official AR850 stuff was left alone.
  14. Any modern 90W hypoid.. whatever brand you like. The manual initially wanted just 90W gear oil in the tranny/trans and 90W EP in the diffs. But modern EP gear oil is safe on yellow metal (brass synchro rings/bearing) so no worries.
  15. I don't think your knowledgeable engine re builder is right... First, there would be a TM of fits and allowances for the Jeep used by 4th or 5th echelon shops for rebuild. I highly doubt that a piston would be accepted if +/- .005 do you have any proof of this?? Second TM9-803A shows how to fit a piston to a block... that basically ensures that even if piston specs are off, you must go through as many pistons as you need to get the proper clearance (.003 or 10lbs on a tension gauge). Could an engine simply be slapped together? Sure... it would also die a quick and horrible death. Old wives tales are just that....
  16. What I look for in an MV's value is most likely no the same as others. I could type for days and try to spell it all out.. but its my own secret recipe.. especially when its my money on the line. A minty original X, Y or Z should look and have the same parts that it had when it came off the factory line. Properly marked and painted. Anything else is just the seller trying to add value where it does not exist in my eyes. "Can you tell me , would a concourse WW2 Ford Jeep be expected to have all parts with a Ford script ?" Yes, just like Mr. Ford made them, and to the the best your ability to document any reason why not. Could jeeps have been made without ford bolts? Yes. I'm sure at one point a few where made without the 'F's.. but exceptions are that. Exceptions. "original nomenclature plate ?" Yes. Repro's are shiny, but not original. Original data plates are not very rare, my jeep had them but I also bought repo's to put on the dash.. I mounted the originals in a frame. "What about vehicles that may have been returned to USA from such as France or New Zealand & have been through a "rebuild"" Then they are no longer mint or original. Again, the cut off line for me is the factory's assembly line door. If these vehicles had the factory parts (ie oil filter with original decals, not a generic black oil filter from supply, bolt heads, original seals etc etc ) they need them reinstalled. original parts trump reproduction and will suffer a value decrease. I would put a driveable jeep between $5-15,000 USD depending on the engine and condition, all matching etc. I have no problem taking a refurbished jeep and 'resetting it' back to factory.. I don't care if the jeeps have the exact parts it left the factory with... but it has to have identical ones.
  17. But those epoxy paints and bondo'd flat panels add millions to the resale value. Ask the MVPA 'best in class' means 'never ever like this in real life'. :laugh:
  18. Cork alone is good enough. Whats more important is that you leveled the pan's flange and flattened around the bolt holes where most of the deformation takes place (and leaks). Also don't over tighten the bolts... you don't want to crush the cork or bend the flange. Gasket goo is rarely needed on an oil pan unless it's to cover up a bent pan flange or some other defect.
  19. Using a restored price to base an original is not a good metric... owners of restored jeeps want to recoup the money/time they put into it. and think that they have all done concourse level resto's). Rare is not the same as valuable... as in just about any collectible, its originality then condition. First, is it TRULY mint/original M38? You admit to not knowing much about M38s (neither do I, but valuation is the same across any item) so the owners story adds nothing to the value. Does it have the parts that make it truly original (in my opinion that means FACTORY parts, not post war/supply issued). Every detail counts. Does it have the factory tool roll? manuals? Were work orders done to remove original factory parts or upgrades that make it an A1? What about wear parts? Original or post war? Does it have the bill of sale when released from service or any other paperwork? That said, in the USA M38A1 drivers go for $5-8000 USD. For it to be much more than that things have to be vetted to an absolute. This M38 is asking $10,500 USD (http://www.vintagemilitarytrucks.com/1951%20M38%20Willys%20Jeep%20with%20Artic%20Top.htm)
  20. Later Jeeps (I have a 97 ZJ) call it the 'death wobble'. Bad suspension parts are the main culprit. Check the tie rods and the steering bell crank first. Then the pitman arm. Check the shocks to. Alignment is easy.. 1/8th in toe in. If it gets past those items and still happens you gotta dig deep... bearings (don't forget kingpins) and steering gear.
  21. Don't forget to clean the commutator with commutator stones. Commutator's are copper and will oxidize causing high resistance. The stones powder will also clean the brushes to ensure good contact. If your jeep is a daily driver the constant starting will keep the commutator clean... but if it sits more than it runs then the oxide will build up and slow the motor. Here is how to do it with before and after photos https://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=739&p=1624&hilit=commutator#p1624 Do not use sand paper!!!!
  22. A vacuum gauge attached to the intake would help. There are many 'how to read a vacuum gauge' posts if you google it. TM9-834 has info on how to read a vacuum gauge. https://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1054&p=2301&hilit=vacuum#p2301 Just remember that a 4 cylinder motor will have a lot of bounce at idle.. don't confuse this with bad valves unless other issues also point to bad valves.
  23. NPT fittings should NOT require a sealant, but should use a thread lubricant. Your answer hinges on two very improbable situations... that the threads of the pot metal pump housing are still in good shape and the NTP to flare elbow threads are also in good shape. The hard lines should never leak via the threads.. they are sealed by the flare in the pipe itself. But the brass fitting into the pump and at the carb fuel bowl are the most likely places for leaks. Lead paste was the lubricant/sealant of the day... so if you wanted to be 'internet correct' you could use that. But any paste type sealant would work and look correct. IIRC lead paste was red???
  24. The headlights are wired in parallel at the junction block on the driver side inner fender. TM9-801 page 251 has the wiring diagram and is available here: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/316.pdf There may or may not be a 30A thermal fuse at the rear of your headlight switch. Also if you still have condensers at the junction blocks they may have shorted out. I would disconnect them until you can rule out any other wiring issues.
  25. Its normal for the fuel in the carb to evaporate after a few days, but if the carb is dry after a few hours it most likely means that the fuel pump internal valves are leaking or the seats are damaged/worn. If you have a primer arm pumping the primer to fill the fuel bowl is an available option. A fuel pump repair kit is easy to find from any jeep vendor. Also, you could have a slow leak at the threaded connectors (less likely), did you use teflon on the thread?
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