Vulture Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Guys Removed the cargo body sides for the first time on my CCKW :nut:. As feared this revealed some corrosion on the cargo body uprights that has been quietly festering for many years by the looks of it :-( With holes of various sizes, backwards into the cargo body, and down to the wheels, what's the best sort of repair do here ? Patch welds, or is there is specific box section repair kit around ? Your thoughts would be appreciated. Kind regards to all Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 As some might say - what a bummer. You can extend the life of things considerably by killing the rust with Vactan or Fertan (the former is probably better for this sort of job) and then living with it - maybe patching where you can. One of the problems I have found is that you weld a patch in, the heat upsets all the surrounding paint (which then goes rusty) or the back of the bit you are putting in is partly hidden and you cant protect it against rust. Alternatively you could cut away the bottom 6 inches of each box upright, weld repair sections in behind, etch prime and apply decent primer and paint, then (having cleaned and sorted the inner bits of them) weld the boxes back in (if you use a 1.5mm plasma disc - the sort used for cutting stainless steel - you will be able to butt weld the same metal back where it came from). Use a decent zirconium flap disc to knock back the weld bead and paint with you favorite concoction! Done right and you will be hard pressed to spot it was ever done. I love this truck and I like the video too!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Or put the sides on your roof rack and fetch them up here..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Making new stake pockets is easy. But once you remove the old stake pocket you'll see that there are quite a few bends that make up the side/bottom sill of the bed. There are no 'repair kits'. Your only hope is to find a reputable welder/body shop and see if the can do the work or provide the repair sections. You could find a product like POR-15 and simply seal in the rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 As some might say - what a bummer. You can extend the life of things considerably by killing the rust with Vactan or Fertan (the former is probably better for this sort of job) and then living with it - maybe patching where you can. One of the problems I have found is that you weld a patch in, the heat upsets all the surrounding paint (which then goes rusty) or the back of the bit you are putting in is partly hidden and you cant protect it against rust. Alternatively you could cut away the bottom 6 inches of each box upright, weld repair sections in behind, etch prime and apply decent primer and paint, then (having cleaned and sorted the inner bits of them) weld the boxes back in (if you use a 1.5mm plasma disc - the sort used for cutting stainless steel - you will be able to butt weld the same metal back where it came from). Use a decent zirconium flap disc to knock back the weld bead and paint with you favorite concoction! Done right and you will be hard pressed to spot it was ever done. I love this truck and I like the video too!!! Paul Thanks for your thoughts. Given your advise and the combination of available time and finance, I'm leaning towards the trying to kill the rust or at least slowing it right down option. I hadn't heard of Vactan or Fertan. I shall look into them. Glad you like the truck and the little video Kind regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Making new stake pockets is easy. But once you remove the old stake pocket you'll see that there are quite a few bends that make up the side/bottom sill of the bed. There are no 'repair kits'. Your only hope is to find a reputable welder/body shop and see if the can do the work or provide the repair sections. You could find a product like POR-15 and simply seal in the rust. Deadline Thanks for your thoughts as well. I've had a look at the POR-15 system, which looks pretty detailed in its approach to trying to contain rust. Kind regards Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 This mack chassis was done with fertan then primed - not a peep of rust dispite it sitting outside for a couple of years before getting it under cover. The best bit is you can apply it with a garden spray and then wash the excess off with a garden hose. Dont get too much on your skin though unless you have a few 101 Dalmation parties to go to over the coming weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I'll take a guess that feritan (sp?) is a typical metal prep solution like phosphoric acid (in the USA there is a product called 'Metal Prep' that is phosphoric acid). But those are for clean metal preservation (most vehicles now a days use an epoxy primer). I never have had any 'luck' with naval jelly or rust converter products. POR-15 is simply an epoxy coating to seal the rust (rust needs water, iron and air. Take away one and there is no chemically viable oxidation). There are a few drawbacks to chemicals... the biggest being that the rarely penetrate the metal to metal joints because of paint, rust or dirt meaning that rust is still there. I guess the easiest (but not cheapest) would be to see about getting the entire bed (or if its a composite bed, take it apart and just do the sides) chemically dipped and coated. That will remove the rust and preserve it. Its a common thing in the USA, but not knowing UK environmental it may not be allowed. Finding a welder that can give you warp free panels after a patch is kinda hard to do... thats more of an art than a science in modern times. TiG would be the best, but a very good mig welder should get you close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 What do we think about this stuff ? http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm Kind regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Vactan is a water based military approved stuff. It is economical , very easy to use, self primer as well. And as you may think. I'm enamoured of the stuff! It works well and being water based you can spray brush or roll with very little problem. The only thing I would say is use gloves, not for toxicity but it does leave a black mark when it dries on skin which is a sod to scrub off. http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan.html A litre should do nearly all the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.2a6ec1e52b1e66c1852e67c05e9afb70.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.