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Found 20 results

  1. I need 4 GMC CCKW 20 inch Wheels with or without tyres, restored or not as long as they are complete and straight. Ideally in the South West of England as I live in Somerset but I will travel, Thanks
  2. The 353, circa 1944 build, arrived without a complete set of elbows or bows... just one usable bow and a couple of usable elbows. GMC 353 spares on web-sites, for example:- * http://jeep-dodge-gmc.com'>http://jeep-dodge-gmc.com'>http://jeep-dodge-gmc.com ; * http://www.jeepest.com/ ; * http://www.lwdparts.com . all show elbows of similar style even though different "part numbers", none of those part numbers are noted in the illustrated parts list published July 1942. Wood bows are shown on http://jeep-dodge-gmc.com and those are probably not of original supply. So a set of wood bows and a set of elbows have been purchased... and the elbows fitted to the side strakes, as here. The wood bows do not fit the elbows which have been fitted to the GMC, the bows are (a) too short and (b) need a tighter curve to align with the elbows. The wood bows which have been purchased from Jeep / Dodge / GMC are of similar length and curve to the one usable bow which came with the vehicle. The NOS elbows which have been purchased have a tighter bend than the elbows which came with the vehicle. The following photos may help to understand the situation, the old elbows are in dirty green paint whilst the NOS elbows are in red primer (applied by me):- this photo shows the replacement bow with the original elbows... and this set up does fit the strakes of the cargo bed. this photo shows the replacement bow with the NOS elbows... this does not fit onto the strakes of the cargo bed primarily because the ends of the elbows are not parallel. this photo shows the NOS elbow (red) in front of the original elbow (dirty green). My guess is that the replacement bows are suitable for the 353 whilst the NOS elbows are not for this vehicle... and that I need to locate some elbows similar to those which came with the vehicle (elbows which have the notch in the "side" and rectangular holes in the inner face of the elbow). If anyone can explain what is going on here then please feel free to tell me what I have missed. Confirmation of my assumption shall be appreciated. Assuming that the replacement bows are usable... then where can I get elbows similar to the old / green items shown in the above photos? thanking you for your assistance, Graham
  3. Gentlemen Can I ask you to take a deep breath and indulge the mechanical novice that I am :n00b:. :help: Brace yourself to provide some advise on the subject of CCKW brakes... After 5 weeks of inactivity I started the truck this lunchtime (it's not at home currently) and was giving it a check over in preparation for possibly bringing it home this weekend. I only had a narrow time window so there wasn't going to be time to run it around, but I thought I'd move it backwards and forwards a bit and exercise the brakes. Given that the brakes were fine when I used it last, I was completely taken aback when my foot went to the floor..:shocked: Did this three times, with the engine note changing each time towards the end. I then rev'd the engine up whilst at the same time pumping the brake pedal. This firmed up to when it would normally, but as soon as I backed the revs off, the pedal went back to the floor again. That said even with the pedal on the floor I could feel that there is some breaking activity happening as I very slowly moved the vehicle backwards and forwards. There are no fluid leaks apparent. Like I say I didn't have time to get into it today, but I intend to return tomorrow. Again time may be limited, and I won't have any tools with me, so what easy things can I start looking into. I will have my phone, so can take pics/video. Any thoughts / ideas would be much appreciated. Kind regards to all Ian (aka Vulture) P.S. Here's a pic of the old girl earlier in the year with a rather nice add-on :-)
  4. Gentlemen Now I'm on the verge of sorting my Windscreen seal out, time to move onto the next issue/challenge. The seal in my Cowl Ventilator on my CCKW has degraded to such an extent I cannot make out what is was or how it fastened in place. Can anyone provide any guidance/pictures and any suggestions on who can supply a suitable replacement ? Your thoughts would be appreciated. Kind regards to all Vulture
  5. Saw this and could not resist posting it :laugh:
  6. Greetings from the United States. I am interested in hearing from other owners of the Cab Over Autocar U-7144-T. I am looking for a cab bow for the canvas and original data plates. I would also enjoy hearing from others regarding their restoration and operation. Best regards. P. M. "Marty" Fravel Virginia- USA email- fravel@clemson.edu
  7. Guys Last winter I stripped the back of my CCKW 352 right back to just the metal and stored the Canvas, Seats and Bow. For a variety for reasons I’m thinking of leaving the back on. I already have a 12’ x 12’ canvas tent that I wrap the cab up in, and that does a great job. I’m keen to find out what other CCKW owners do regarding covering the cargo canvas over successfully. Kind regards to all Vulture
  8. Guys I seem to have a lot of play in the water pump bearing. There is quite a ‘wobble/rock’ in the hub that the fan blades attach to. No fluid loss as yet. I’m contemplating getting ahead of the problem here and replacing it. I have two questions for your kind consideration: 1. Should I try and get it repaired, or would I be better of getting a part ex recon one from Rex Ward for £ 102 ? 2. The instructions (below) look straightforward, is there anything in particular to watch for ? Kind regards to all Vulture b. Removal. (1) DRAIN SYSTEM AND REMOVE FAN AND DRIVE BELT. Remove radiator cap; then open radiator and cylinder block drain cocks and allow cooling system to drain. Remove four fan to water pump cap screws and remove fan blades. Remove drive belt (par.108). (2) REMOVE PUMP CONNECTIONS. Loosen radiator outlet pipe to water pump hose clamp screw at water pump and remove hose from water pump. Loosen water by-pass elbow hose clamp screws, and loosen hose [(GM-2137582) G501-02-17816] from elbow. (3) REMOVE PUMP. Remove four water pump to cylinder block cap screws (fig. 102). Remove pump [(GM-2103002) G85-11-01740] and gasket [(GM-838137) G85-11-00960] from vehicle. (4) REMOVE BY-PASS ELBOW. Unscrew water by-pass elbow from water pump for installation in replacement pump. c. Installation. (1) INSTALL BY-PASS ELBOW. Screw water by-pass elbow tightly into water pump. Coat threads of elbow with anti-seize compound, mica base. (2) INSTALL PUMP ON ENGINE. Place a new water pump to cylinder block gasket in position, then place water pump in position on engine, directing inlet elbow into hose. Install one 17/s-inch cap screw with lock washer in water pump bolt hole just above water inlet and tighten finger-tight. Then install remaining three cap screws with lock washers (fig. 102), assembling fuel and oil lines clip and generator adjusting arm. Tighten all four cap screws evenly and firmly. (3) INSTALL PUMP CONNECTIONS. Tighten water by-pass elbow hose clamp screws. Install radiator outlet pipe to water pump inlet and tighten hose clamp screws. (4) INSTALL FAN AND DRIVE BELT AND FILL SYSTEM. Install and adjust belt (par. 108). Position fan blades on water pump hub with straight edge of blades toward radiator-curved edges toward engine. This will position fan so notches in blades will provide clearance with crankshaft balancer. Install four cap screws (fan to water pump) with lock washers and tighten firmly. Close radiator and cylinder block drain cocks, then fill system (par. 17).
  9. Guys, I feel the engine is cranking over too slowly on start-up (from cold). That said I've only heard a couple of others start up, so I'm looking to those more knowledgeable to share their thoughts please. Points to note: - It's a 6 volt system. - The battery was new last Jun. - The battery was fully charged. - I've cleaned the battery terminals recently (it made no difference) - I've cleaned the connection on the earth strap on the chassis recently (it made no difference). - I've cleaned the connection on the starter switch yesterday (it made no difference). (Condition of bolt 'poor'). - I pulled back the metal band and inspected the contacts. Armature is clean and the contacts look almost new. - I didn't expect the engine to start on this crank, as the choke wasn't out and I hadn't pumped the accelerator. - Lubricated the end bearing recently. - No idea when the starter was last removed and the front bearing lubricated. I'm planning to buy a multimeter to do a resistance check on the wiring. [video=youtube_share;qAThZyilRXs] Ideas, comments, observations ? As an aside, 1. What do you use to lubricate the starter linkage ? The TM doesn't say (unless I'm missing it). 2. Anyone have a diagram or photos showing the inside of the switch ? Kind regards to all Vulture
  10. Just stumbled across a link to this fascinating piece of film showing CCKWs being assembled from parts. http://www.britishpathe.com/video/army-stores/query/Army+engineers Deadline, there is one shot of the engine where I'm pretty sure the rocker cover looks shiny ! Regards to all Vulture
  11. Gentlemen Last week due to my inexperience with my GMC CCKW 352 I misjudged how the suspension would handle a particular rubber sleeping policeman, and went over it a bit fast. The old girl was mighty offended (believe me I will be crawling over them in future), and the front diff in particular, which proceeded to blow a good teaspoon full of fluid out of the breather Weather and time permitting, either this weekend or the next, I intended to check the fluid levels of all the Axles and Gearboxes (in fact I'm thinking of changing all the oils entirely). Your wise counsel is sought on the following questions: Question 1. Do I check the levels after a run, or when the truck is cold ? Question 2. What in your experience is the best method / tool you use for topping up ? My brother has recommended I purchase a syringe from Halfords, but before going this route thought I’d sound you out. Question 3. Is there any particular tool you favour for undoing the square nuts concerned ? Kind regards to all Ian
  12. Guys As I posted last weekend the flexy pipe linking the oil pipe on the engine to the oil pressure gauge failed. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?27596-This-Was-Not-In-The-Plan-For-The-Day-! I ordered a replacement from Rex Ward which arrived yesterday. On trying to fit it this morning I find that its either too long, or too short. Its not long enough to curl round like the old one, and not short enough to easily link the two pipes. At the moment if I force the issue, it will kink the the pipe. :-( Any ideas whats going on here ? (deep sigh) Kind regards to all Ian Photo 1 - Original set-up Photo 2 - Failed attempt with new pipe Photo 3 - Comparison of pipes
  13. Gentlemen, I can share with you that when my son and I went out yesterday :drive:morning to visit his grandparents 7 miles away, I hadn't anticipated coming back home with such lack of style.... :blush: :embarrassed: This is what ends up happening when the flexible oil pressure pipe on a CCKW that connects to the oil pressure gauge, decides to split when your not at home... :shocked:
  14. Guys, a total noob :n00b: question here in relation to my CCKW... :blush: :embarrassed: I had a bit of time this afternoon, thought I'd put in the new points I recently picked up from Rex Ward. With my older cars I used to turn them over by hand using the fixed fan on the crank, but of course that's not an option here. So I get the starting handle out for the first time, as I know I need to rotate the engine until the the points open. Walk to front of truck with handle.... Ahhhh, bleep bleep winch is in the way, time to check manual... What the **** ? :shocked:Apparently I need to unwind the entire cable (which just know won't go back as tidy) !!! :nut: :mad: Someone, anyone, please tell me there is another way of slowly turning the engine over.... Kind regards to all Vulture
  15. An old friend of mine sent me this link: http://www.flamesofwar.com/hobby.aspx?art_id=883 If only conversions in real life were as easy ! :nut: :-D Regards to all Ian
  16. After talking with Ken Pugh and also seeing a few photos of Open Cab trucks with half hard doors, thought I'd try and make some myself.... (5mm Plywood). Today was our first outing with them fitted. - - - As expected/hoped for, wind buffet in the cab was reduced hugely, but without compromising visibility . Still need to organise some hinges, which I hope to do at the forthcoming Northern Military Expo this coming Sunday. Kind regards to all Ian
  17. Guys Removed the cargo body sides for the first time on my CCKW :nut:. As feared this revealed some corrosion on the cargo body uprights that has been quietly festering for many years by the looks of it :-( With holes of various sizes, backwards into the cargo body, and down to the wheels, what's the best sort of repair do here ? Patch welds, or is there is specific box section repair kit around ? Your thoughts would be appreciated. Kind regards to all Ian
  18. Stumbled across this high quality colour slideshow on the web. Spot the tantalising photo of the CCKW 352/353. Just a shame more of the vehicle isn’t shown... http://www.theatlantic.com/infocus/2011/08/world-war-ii-the-american-home-front-in-color/100122/Kind regards to allVulture
  19. Guys (please forgive the indulgence, but) At the weekend my 9 year son and I were looking at videos of CCKWs on U-Tube, when, yes you guessed it... "Dad, why don't we make a video of our truck and put it on U-Tube?" So on a windy, but sunny Sunday here in the UK, I we took some footage which I stitched together (using Windows Moviemaker) and uploaded last night. Kind regards to all Ian (aka Vulture)
  20. Hi, Probably a silly question but is there an easy way of taking the gearstick of a CCKW gearbox to aid removing the engine/box as one unit without removing the top plate & selectors? Thanks for any advice offered Don
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