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432 fuel pump


blitzkrieg

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  • 2 weeks later...

We've started having trouble with our 439. Seems like the fuel pump. Can anyone tell me if when the pump starts failing, does the fuel guage start playing up? When things start going wrong, I've noticed the fuel guage 'flicks' between the correct level and Off, not empty. I've checked the wiring, both ends, nothing loose, guage doesn't move when wiring 'jiggled'.

As the pump 'dies' does it momentarily sieze, taking all the current, making the guage point to OFF?

Probably be easiest to just change the pump!

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We've started having trouble with our 439. Seems like the fuel pump. Can anyone tell me if when the pump starts failing, does the fuel guage start playing up? When things start going wrong, I've noticed the fuel guage 'flicks' between the correct level and Off, not empty. I've checked the wiring, both ends, nothing loose, guage doesn't move when wiring 'jiggled'.

As the pump 'dies' does it momentarily sieze, taking all the current, making the guage point to OFF?

Probably be easiest to just change the pump!

Hi

I don't think that it should efect the gauge , mine has jumped up and down before but that was low on battery power. As with the pump i here they are a common problem and you may be lucky and just have a bit of corrosion in the impeller end.

 

simon

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For those who have experienced fuel pump problems, out if interest could I ask what fuel you're running on? I've been advised to be careful about running on contam because the petrol defeats the lubricating properties of diesel and tends to cause more wear in the fuel system components?

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For those who have experienced fuel pump problems, out if interest could I ask what fuel you're running on? I've been advised to be careful about running on contam because the petrol defeats the lubricating properties of diesel and tends to cause more wear in the fuel system components?

Hi Andy

Got my 432 with a pump problem! i think it has diesel in it, smells and feels like diesel. I agree with you even though they are a multifuel diesel is far more oily than petrol, i think if i were to use contam i think iwould put a little oil with it

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Andy,

The 439 is on diesel too. Good point, tho.

I just happened to notice the guage needle flicking when we were having trouble, and wondered if it was all 'related'.

I checked the wiring both ends last week - nothing loose - needle didn't move when I 'rattled it about'. Looks like the start of the pump's 'death throes'!

Another pump it is, then!

Chas.

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  • 2 months later...

Now it's my turn to have a dicky fuel pump! :cry:

 

All has been fine up until now, although it seems to have been a bit noisy recently but then I've got nothing to compare it with. Makes a ticking/hammering noise when running. Then tonight, nothing. Luckily there was just enough fuel pressure to get her back under cover. Any suggestions? Could it be something as simple as having to drain/bleed the collector tank? I'll try that tomorrow, followed by a check of the electrics ...

 

Andy

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Ours has been fine since I cleaned the filter in the collector tank. Bit of a 'pig' getting it out tho!

There was a sticker on the pump saying it had been overhauled in 2004.

When I checked for leaks after it had run for 40ish minutes, I was amazed how hot the pump motor ran, I could hardly keep my hand on it.

Had a bit of trouble, turned out to be 'driver error'. Must be gear selector adjustment, I think.

Don't ask me how, but it stalled, twice! When re-started, it 'ran out' of diesel. After ages, we found that even though the selector lever was in neutral enough to let the starter turn, the fuel pump wasn't running. Unless there's a thermal 'trip' that had chance to cool down and re-set? Time will tell !

Best of luck with yours, Andy

 

Chas.

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That looks like tomorrow's job, then. Never mind, I needed to drain the collector tank and clean the filter anyway. Can I ask how loud your pump is and what sort of noise it makes? With mine you can clearly hear it running from the driver's seat as soon as you switch the engine on, and it makes a very obvious ticking/clicking sound, which seems odd for a rotary pump!

 

Andy

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evening andy

you would be amaazed how much gunk you can get in them pumps and they will still run .First strip pump from tin box and it will come only after you have removed big brass arrangment on bottom and the drain fitting then by twisting to the right position pump and filter will come out in one . Then you can remove filter and clean out also you can remove the end of pump and check the pump internals are all intact.if you want to check in motor end it can be a bit tricky depending how much spare wire there is on inside of plug sometimes you can get enough movement to check brushes sometimes not. good luck any probs gimme a shout .

Iain

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That looks like tomorrow's job, then. Never mind, I needed to drain the collector tank and clean the filter anyway. Can I ask how loud your pump is and what sort of noise it makes? With mine you can clearly hear it running from the driver's seat as soon as you switch the engine on, and it makes a very obvious ticking/clicking sound, which seems odd for a rotary pump!

 

Andy

they are noisey and get even more noisey as you run out of fuel

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I decided to go the re-con route with a new filter element as the hassle of getting it apart outweighs the extra cost - let alone the towing charge if it packs up on the road!

 

The WD-40 I'd soaked round the floor plate screws last time I couldn't undo them had worked wonders, a swift tap with a mallet to unstick them and out they came. No AK-47s under the floor, just more muddy gunk that hadn't washed out last time. This pic, just after the tank was removed but before the unions and cable were bagged up is the best demonstration; note the "pit" where the pump was sitting and the neat ring of holes for the drain plug fitting!

 

 

 

I took the tank to bits, discovering on the way that the last person to dismantle it had used loads of gasket goo, possibly because they couldn't find the correct gaskets (see later!) and that the filter was held together with cable ties - hmm. I should have taken a picture, but got absorbed in the three-dimensional puzzle of trying to remove the filter so I could get the pump off. The manual says "Before pump can be removed from the tank, the coarse filter must be pulled clear of centre pipe". How? The combined length of filter and pipe is too long for the tank, so how are you supposed to pull it clear? In the end as I've got a new element coming I just cut it in two with tin snips. I may have fun with the new one!

 

Speaking of reassembly, does anyone have (or know who has) a gasket for the drain fitting? The old one tore apart due to the gasket goo. I've tried Marcus Glenn, TheXMOD and Sammy Clark but no-one seems to have any. It's NSN 5330-99-290-6005 and either FV422119 or FV2227589. I'll pop a post up in wanted, too.

 

Andy

IMG_1447aw.jpg

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In my post #13 I was talking 'bolleaux', sorry!

I had another 'play' and of course, the fuel pump runs all the time the 'Ign' switch is ON, no matter where the gear selector is! Of course most people know this, I didn't want anyone to get a 'bum steer'.

There must be a thermal cut out in the fuel pump then, or our pump is breaking down - oo, er.

 

Chas.

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OK, after an "arts and crafts" diversion into gasket making I got it all back together with a re-con pump and new filter. However, the instructions in the maintenance manual are plainly wrong as they say you remove the pump after pulling off the filter through the drain assembly mounting hole. On mine, at least, this is impossible without first removing the water drain cock as well because its internal pipe fouls the filter. There's no mention of the this in the manual, and of course once you've removed it, you'll need another gasket to replace it - arrgh! However, once the water drain cock is removed you can just take the pump out of the tank with the filter still attached. Probably just as well, because pulling the filter off its pipe is pretty impossible, as I said in my earlier post.

 

Andy

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