airportable Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hi folks. Hope I dont bore you all to death with Airportable restoration. First a pic as found a few weeks ago. Sun. 24th. Oct. it was delievered to me. At the first inspection I knew that a bit of chassis welding, rear cross member required. Wrong :cry:. After a propper inspection at home, soon became clear that it was far worse than I first thought. But all along I have wanted to rebuild a Airportable on a galv. chassis so I would have it for ever, and this one being a 12v knew it would be a better bet regards ignition part costs and a little easyier to maintain. Very surprised how easy and quick we (good mates turned up to give a hand) got it stripped, so far have cut three bolts only, on the exhaust. Bulk head, top vent rail found to be in first class condition. Costed up a new galv. chassis £1267.82 (including del., may be able to reduce by £100 if collected, may get3% discount for being in landi. club, know mon.) A few pics. so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted October 29, 2010 Author Share Posted October 29, 2010 A few more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 That looks horribly like it has been to the sea side in its time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spood Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Nice pics, I hope to go down this road with mine at some stage. Had to patch a 1p size hole in rear x-member for MOT this time, first fail since I've had it but possibly the start of the slippery slope, starting to look a bit tired elsewhere as well so probably due a birthday. Keep it coming I will follow this with interest. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
private mw Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 great keep us updated :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevpol Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 will it be ready for Malvern next week mate? :nut: Good luck with it!!!! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Lightweights are the best Landy, damn simple Have you got the wiper motor cover and tailgate? A few other items are a nuisance to buy but also there are some parts similar on later vehicles ie the wiper switch is same as a Defender rear widow wiper switch but the prices are completely different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted October 30, 2010 Author Share Posted October 30, 2010 Lightweights are the best Landy, damn simple Have you got the wiper motor cover and tailgate? A few other items are a nuisance to buy but also there are some parts similar on later vehicles ie the wiper switch is same as a Defender rear widow wiper switch but the prices are completely different Yep. Excelent tailgate with most fittings still on. Done paper work tonight, last on the road 1994. Seller bought from local mil. Landi dealer. Spent the last few years in Iceland stored in white, UN markings before it was sold to said dealer. Seller has still in His dads garage all the switches, stearing wheel,wipermotor, etc. etc. The data plates are allso in the boxes of bits. (I hope)Have all light fittings, including most of the glass lenses .Still very unsure how to restore, UN or recon. vehicle to fit in with our kit and displays. Thanks every one for your support. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 1, 2010 Author Share Posted November 1, 2010 Done quite a bit more stripping down today. All went very easy with only one brake pipe having to be cut. Pics. will show progress. Ordered a new galv. chassis (sorry folks, no Cristmas pressies for any one). Decided to buy off Richards chassis, price del. £1267.83, :cry:. Very much looking forward to the rebuild. Have got approx. six weeks to get the running gear, brakes etc sorted before delievery. I want to replace all seals, gaskets etc. so easy to do in the stripped down state. Lucky the wireing loom is allso in very good condition. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 If there was one piece of advice i would offer it would be never to fit any part that comes in a box or packet with the words "Britpart" writen on it. Thats it never ever, not worth the the box it comes in. Buy genuine parts, new old stock, ex military parts or second hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 1, 2010 Author Share Posted November 1, 2010 Thanks. I do know what you mean;) Do have a local dealer who mostly still has genuine ex. mil. Landi parts or I go for Girling etc. Again thanks. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 If there was one piece of advice i would offer it would be never to fit any part that comes in a box or packet with the words "Britpart" writen on it. Thats it never ever, not worth the the box it comes in. Buy genuine parts, new old stock, ex military parts or second hand. Good advice Rob, known to a lot of the trade as Britpart s..tpart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 I always go for the higher quality parts but I am not impressed with the slave cylinders I bought for my Series 3, they were the proper Lockheed ones and are about a year old, the vehicle has done less than 1000 miles in that time and already the seals leak like mad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 I always go for the higher quality parts but I am not impressed with the slave cylinders I bought for my Series 3, they were the proper Lockheed ones and are about a year old, the vehicle has done less than 1000 miles in that time and already the seals leak like mad! I had problems much the same five/six years ago with my Airportable, lost count how many Girling seal kits/ slave cylinder kits fitted.A Landi fan, passer by gave advice, and help. How many of us COMPLETLY drain the fluid, pipes off etc. etc. New fluid (not a old tin in the shed). Never a leak since. Good luck with bleeding :nut:. Stripping down my project, collecting spent fluid I noticed how fluid would run clean, then have a second or two of contaminated/black fluid. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 That's a good point another problem I've been having is dust and dirt getting past the slave boots and seizing the pistons inside, one of them was rusted in solid and TWO other wheel stations were also jammed or sticky from dust. I wish the damned thing would just work, realistically it all needs stripping down and doing again from scratch. There's yet another job for a rainy day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 Just looking through a thread of mine 'We dont want another Landi'. I have had a couple of requests for photo's of the mid. bulkhead modification to allow the fitting of 'propper'!! seats and to give more room for driver. Here are the pics. can do a few more if wanted. I have come to the conclusion I would like restore to origional, but by swapping the tub as the mod has been so well done. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 Done a little more stripping down to-day, drive shaft out and the bell housing and gear box removed. But first job was to rescue my gantry from the nettles at my brothers farm. Took best part of the day to sort it out but will make all the heavy work very much easier. It was clear from day one that I had a problem with the clutch mechanism, became clear with attempted removal of the clutch slave cylinder. It is seized solid. A few more pics. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 On holiday this week so got a little more done today, weather not good here so engine removal another day. Stripped down the bulkhead to tidy up, spray etc. I have found that with a restoration every bolt/part needs to be removed. Surprising how corrosion takes place between parts. As for the loom, well. Mate sugested leave well alone in situ and work around. Because we removed it found faults which would have been a big problem after the rebuild, one chaffed and melted insulation on a feed wire. Not to mention the rotted off connector in the multi block for the rear lighting loom. Lesson learnt. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 Had a good day, sun out! Now allmost totally stripped the chassis. No problems except the steering relay is seized in the cross member. No play or wear in it at all, so I am lucky that I can carefully cut the chassis from around it. As for the chassis.....well the pics. tell it all. Now we have it on its side and can inspect fully around the bump stops etc. it was far worse than I thought. Call to Richards, the new chassis does have the bolt in cross member and all spring hanger bushes. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevpol Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 ouch mate!!!!! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lozzaboy Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Bet ya cant wait to get the new chassis after seeing those pics mate, at least the relay's alright though, heard some really bad experiances where people have fitted new ones and the shafts have snapped! keep up the good work mate :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Just found a paint man on my door step. Does etch primer etc.etc. for the galv. chassis. Can do any Military paint but does want the BS No. for Nato green for circa 1970-80's. Any one help please. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polecat paul Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Try this website mate , nato green is listed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polecat paul Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 sorry forgot to post link!!! http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Try this website mate , nato green is listed Thanks Paul. Had a look at a few threads, have another go later. Quite confused, plenty on two pack etc. Want to respray as left factory 79' before I add dispuptive pattern.Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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