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Scammell Explorer fixes and workarounds


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I was given this plan for back timberwork some time ago. It is too big to scan but here are some photos. I might be able to get full size copies done if anyone wants one.

 

Hi Croc , That looks useful mate ! I'd like a plan if thats ok ! I'll re-imburse any costs of course ! Regards Andy !

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Hi Croc, I too would like a copy if you are able to get them done and will reimburse you. It would be good to see how it should look when the time comes to replace the rear. No plans for work any time soon but the land rover resto is nearly finished so there's light at the end of the tunnel :cheesy:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Croc,

Is there much difference between an Explorer back body and a Pioneer .As far as looking at photos it just looks like the small access door to get up to the jib is nearer the back end.If they are the same I would gladly take a copy and pay the going rate.

Cheers

Bryan

 

I know that they are not the same but as far as I can tell it's just the large and small boxes next to the drop door are the other way round. I still haven't had a chance to price copies but I will get onto it.

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While I'm on.... Has anyone got any tips regarding dropping a Rolls Eagle diesel in my Scammell (other than don't bother)??!!

 

It looks like the front crossmember will have to come out for some serious mods, due to the length of the rolls. I'm also not sure about whether I'll be able to use the Scammell clutch housing cover, as thats for a single plate push clutch and the Rolls has a twin plate pull stet up- I may have to cobble something up from a modern g/box bell housing and input shaft?!

 

The sump needs altering too, as the well is at the wrong end!!! :cry:

 

Any thoughts?

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While I'm on.... Has anyone got any tips regarding dropping a Rolls Eagle diesel in my Scammell (other than don't bother)??!!

 

It looks like the front crossmember will have to come out for some serious mods, due to the length of the rolls. I'm also not sure about whether I'll be able to use the Scammell clutch housing cover, as thats for a single plate push clutch and the Rolls has a twin plate pull stet up- I may have to cobble something up from a modern g/box bell housing and input shaft?!

 

The sump needs altering too, as the well is at the wrong end!!! :cry:

 

Any thoughts?

 

best way to do is it to cut front cross member unless u love a rolls royce that much u want it sat in the cab with u . the sump can be done with the rite bits u just need to find the rite sump off another eagle scammell bellhousing and clutch can be used but requires alot of machining to the flywheel

 

 

i am curantly undergoing a engine transplant also but didant go with the rolls royce i have chose the cummins l10 path and have most of the same problems as u but the engine is a lot shorter

 

nick

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[quote

 

 

i am curantly undergoing a engine transplant also but didant go with the rolls royce i have chose the cummins l10 path and have most of the same problems as u but the engine is a lot shorter

 

nick

 

It may be shorter but it has a greater ability to keep its water and oil in:D

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While I'm on.... Has anyone got any tips regarding dropping a Rolls Eagle diesel in my Scammell (other than don't bother)??!!

 

It looks like the front crossmember will have to come out for some serious mods, due to the length of the rolls. I'm also not sure about whether I'll be able to use the Scammell clutch housing cover, as thats for a single plate push clutch and the Rolls has a twin plate pull stet up- I may have to cobble something up from a modern g/box bell housing and input shaft?!

 

The sump needs altering too, as the well is at the wrong end!!! :cry:

 

Any thoughts?

 

There are at least 2 ways of fitting the Eagle Diesel in an Explorer. The first I encountered was done with a 220 over 20 years ago, and basically involved extending the chassis by 4 inches, the bonnet, and the radiator stays. It also involved a 2" spacer plate moving the front axle forward by 2 ", and moving the front axle pivot/mount rearwards by 2 inches too. This allows the use of the original couplings and joining shaft and clamps between the bell housing and the gearbox. The clutch is one for the Eagle, and has had a different release mechanism fitted, and has alway worked really well, giving a far lighter release than the Meadows. No one ever notices that the chassis has been stretched unless its pointed out!

 

I thougth that was a lot of work, when I finally went to fit my 220. The sumps on both are rear mounted, instead of the deep front mounted one which is too deep to clear the axle diff housing. I had seen other Explorers with Eagles fitted without extending the chassis, and decided that was what I'd do. It is tight!

 

I did away with the short shaft at the rear, and made a 6 bolt clamp from the original 2 clamps and bolted the metalastic couplings directly together. This allowed the engine enough space to fit, but also means it has to come out to change the clutch. The web on the engine mounting cross-member had to be cut down, although machining the damper would have the same effect. The engine mountings I made up and are bolted directly to the chassis rails either side, both front and rear. I used the Eagle flywheel, machined to take the original Meadows plate. (The only major job I couldn't tackle). Most of the pipes connect up quite easily, and the only other issue was the clutch lever needed an adaptor plate.

 

It took me a long time to get around to fitting mine, as I bought the whole truck and engine both in pieces,. Once I'd found a rear sump, and got the engine fired up for the first time, it was in within about a week, doing it inbetween other paying work. It's not the best engine as it uses oil, I think largely because it sat around in bits for quite a while before I put it all together, allowing the bores to get a bit furry. If I used the truck every day I'd buy a recon 290 from one of the tender sales, but for now it goes well enough for a few runs out a year. The other one has been in as said for over 20 years, amd the only issue has been a leaking water pump so far!

 

Hope this helps.

 

Jules

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There seems to be a lot of meadows engines getting ripped out!!! My pal 'Bigsteve' is currently fitting an L10 in place of the old meadows petrol. The L10 looks a compact unit, but I like the idea of fitting a british lump and the rolls will certainly fill all the space under that bonnet!

 

I had thought about a turbocharged version on the rolls eagle, but all that extra power has to go somewhere. As I have a fully recon N/A 220hp engine to go in, I'll stick with it- I can always fiddle with the fuelling a bit if need be!!!:D

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There seems to be a lot of meadows engines getting ripped out!!! My pal 'Bigsteve' is currently fitting an L10 in place of the old meadows petrol. The L10 looks a compact unit, but I like the idea of fitting a british lump and the rolls will certainly fill all the space under that bonnet!

 

I had thought about a turbocharged version on the rolls eagle, but all that extra power has to go somewhere. As I have a fully recon N/A 220hp engine to go in, I'll stick with it- I can always fiddle with the fuelling a bit if need be!!!:D

 

Always on the look out for petrol spares if he has any parts he wishes to sell mate ! :D

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Always on the look out for petrol spares if he has any parts he wishes to sell mate ! :D

I hgave a Petrol lump that is destined for the Scrap, Do you want It? It is mostly there, No spring loaded throttle rod or Manifold. Got most of the rest of it. Including carbs, Wtaer pump, Starter, etc. Beat scrap price.

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I'll pass the request on... he has two petrol lumps sat there. I reckon they'd make good mooring roots for a boat!!!;)

 

Best thing for the bloody things all popping and farting and backfireing and not starting and then popping and farting and stopping for no reason only to then start striaght up and run perfectly and did i mention all the popping and farting?

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Best thing for the bloody things all popping and farting and backfireing and not starting and then popping and farting and stopping for no reason only to then start striaght up and run perfectly and did i mention all the popping and farting?

 

And the backfire that empties the oil filled air filters all over the front of the cab and the windscreen,

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While I'm on.... Has anyone got any tips regarding dropping a Rolls Eagle diesel in my Scammell (other than don't bother)??!!

 

It looks like the front crossmember will have to come out for some serious mods, due to the length of the rolls. I'm also not sure about whether I'll be able to use the Scammell clutch housing cover, as thats for a single plate push clutch and the Rolls has a twin plate pull stet up- I may have to cobble something up from a modern g/box bell housing and input shaft?!

 

The sump needs altering too, as the well is at the wrong end!!! :cry:

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

Take it back into the cab it will fit.

SDC10031.jpg

SDC10030.jpg

SDC10029.jpg

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Take it back into the cab it will fit.

 

My 220 fitted without having to modify the centre panel in the cab. It's close, but it does clear everywhere. Also I found it quite easy to use the original air filters and intake pipework, and adapt the Eagle throttle linkage fit. I'll try to take some photos and post them here.

 

Jules

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