gritineye Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 You're so right there Andy, now got time and patience to plan, assemble the right parts and tools, unhurried working is very satifying too! Happy Scammelling indeed! We'll be out and about quite a lot I think, see ya around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steifbear Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) Just out in the workshop playing with elctrickery for an interior light and the drivers windscreen wiper. man i hate wiring :-( Edited May 4, 2010 by Steifbear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steifbear Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Right then question time, parking up last night having got back from a show the Air Hand brake has the efficiency of a small dog leaning against the rear tires any clues? also the transmission brake appears to have been removed has anyone got some detailed drawing of this? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Right then question time, parking up last night having got back from a show the Air Hand brake has the efficiency of a small dog leaning against the rear tires any clues? also the transmission brake appears to have been removed has anyone got some detailed drawing of this? Pete Pete, what do you mean by 'air hand brake'? The early contract Explorer should have a Hill Holder (the large lever mounted on the steering column which has a mechanical connection to the foot brake), a transmission drum brake and an air valve to work the trailer brakes. From memory only the later contracts had a Neate cable handbrake in place of the transmission brake, while RAF models had vacuum trailer brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 The early Explorers like mine had a transmission brake fitted on the rear of the tranfer box. Some early ones had them removed in service cos drivers could do huge amounts of damage applying the on them move. Later explorers had no transmission brake but were fitted with a hill holder brake leaver fitted to the steering coloum. This worked (i think ) through an air valve an applyed all the brakes to assist with hill starts. and should not be used as a parking brake as it will release as the air leaks out of the system. (Us real men who drive older Explorers manage without a namby pamby hillholder;)) There is a trailer brake leaver in the center of the bulkhead under the windscreen which applys only the trailer brakes. On the early Explorers there is a valve just above the throttle pedel which if opened alows the tractor to push a trailer and work the air brakes through the front couplings, This tap should be closed for normal usage and to alow a lead tractor on a double headed train to work all the brakes ect through your front couplings. How ever if this tap is left open the trailer brake leaver will operate all the brakes on the Explorer just like a hill holder but it can make the foot brakes feel a bit funny. Hope this helps. Also the early ones had a Knock off leaver on the neat handbrake where as the later ones had a push button:nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 Newsflash! New sumo light guards withstands first test! Newsflash! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Newsflash! New sumo light guards withstands first test! [ATTACH]28114[/ATTACH]Newsflash! Who you calling a Sumo ! :D Nice one Bernard ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 It was a sumo hole and a sumo hill wot done it, Andy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 It was a sumo hole and a sumo hill wot done it, Andy.. I was gonna say I have been on a diet you know ! Any news on the covert operations in the shed ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 I was gonna say I have been on a diet you know ! Any news on the covert operations in the shed ? Thinking of changing my user name to fibreglassineye.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Thinking of changing my user name to fibreglassineye.. :rofl::rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steifbear Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 has anyone got a source for suitable replacement headlight units for the explorer? ours are at best wrecked if not getting close to falling off. Cheers Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 (edited) Usually available from many show traders and most dealers, expect to pay from £15 used to £75 NOS for the later halogen ones which are are a big improvement. Even new ones rust inside the mounting part very quickly, no paint there, I have made covers for mine to keep the rain out when not in use. Edited June 7, 2010 by gritineye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 I've bodged mine up for now and plan to fit landrover halogen conversions in as they are 7"....handy that:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 An ex REME chap told me they had an extra seat fitted it their Explorers, so I fitted one like he said for Beltring, the more the merrier..:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 i can see ther are many advantages in haveing a extra seat in that location bernard or is it purely to keep an eye on andy this year when crossing a dtich :shocked: and do u plan to have a handbrake operator in this position during the drag race to aide in the achivment of sideways motion ??? this years suply of cake has just been deliverd ready for war and peac :cool2: nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 So whats all that hydraulicy stuff and extra nobs for under the new seat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 i can see ther are many advantages in haveing a extra seat in that location bernard or is it purely to keep an eye on andy this year when crossing a dtich :shocked: and do u plan to have a handbrake operator in this position during the drag race to aide in the achivment of sideways motion ??? nick :rofl::rofl: All of the above Nick, working on persuading my daughter to bake us one of her chocolate, bannana and rum cakes, but she's a busy girl so can't push it too much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 So whats all that hydraulicy stuff and extra nobs for under the new seat? Handraulic actualy Robert, it was to lift the huge pointy snowplough that was fitted for clearing runways when Forceful was in service with the Royal Aircrat Establisment.....damn it...sorry, I shouldn't have told you that secret stuff, just watch out for men in trench coats with turned up collars hanging around your gaff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Hmmmmm.....you could make a huge rear ground anchor and use the handraulics to push it down into the ground. was thinking of making such a thing for mine one day. weld the anchor mounting pivots near the winch where the front scotch chain hooks are fitted couple of RSJ's with a kink over the rear axle and a small bulldoser blade type thing on the back:cool2: Weight would be enough to dig it in and use the jib to lift it up:-) About all the bloomin jibs good for, put any serious weight on it and the fron end's in the air:nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Forceful's gearbox started to make the usual Scammell vibrating in 5th and 6th gear on the way back from Belring, as everything in it is all new inside (2000 od miles ago) except for the output shaft and flange, it had to be that. Just took the prop off and sure nuff a little play has developed, 1/4" at flange rim, enough for the propshaft vibrations to rattle it. I have used chemical bearing fit products many times but never one designed to take up play in splines, has anyone found and used a product and if so was it any good, or did it just make it difficult to remove the flange when it failed to work as advertised? Loctite say this on their website: A. Yes. You can simply apply Loctite® Retaining Compounds to both the inner and outer side of the spline and assemble it. It will prevent backlash, which is a major cause of assembly failure. PS dn't blame the exhaust brake...:nono: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Forceful's gearbox started to make the usual Scammell vibrating in 5th and 6th gear on the way back from Belring, as everything in it is all new inside (2000 od miles ago) except for the output shaft and flange, it had to be that. Just took the prop off and sure nuff a little play has developed, 1/4" at flange rim, enough for the propshaft vibrations to rattle it. I have used chemical bearing fit products many times but never one designed to take up play in splines, has anyone found and used a product and if so was it any good, or did it just make it difficult to remove the flange when it failed to work as advertised? Loctite say this on their website: A. Yes. You can simply apply Loctite® Retaining Compounds to both the inner and outer side of the spline and assemble it. It will prevent backlash, which is a major cause of assembly failure. PS dn't blame the exhaust brake...:nono: I have tried "Quick metal" to ake up play in worn parts. I find that works and it is possible to dis-assemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 I have tried "Quick metal" to ake up play in worn parts. I find that works and it is possible to dis-assemble. Thanks Mike that looks like it might work, do you think the 50mm size would do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 (edited) 50ml? yes easily, probably enough to sort out 25 flanges!! http://www.loctite.co.th/cps/rde/xchg/SID-0AC83309-632B7E14/henkel_tht/hs.xsl/800_THT_HTML.htm?countryCode=th&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=10000009MD9 Edited July 27, 2010 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big chris Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 HI AFTER GOING TO A SHOW AT THE WEEKEND WITH THE SCAMMELL AND A SERIES LANDY DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY PICTURES OF AN A FRAME FOR SUSPENDED TOW OF A VEHICLE LIKE THIS AS WHEN I GOT TO THE SHOW THE LANDY DECIDED TO CROAK ON ME I ENDED UP RATCHET STRAPPING IT TO A BAR AND LIFTING HER UP THEN I HAD TO DRAG IT ROUND ALL WEEKEND WHAT A PAIN ANY PICS SO I CAN MAKE ONE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED CHRIS:nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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