rupert condick

hi, convoy light switch, I found that early Austins K2Y had a switch that operated the tail lamp only, the brake lights still worked. the switch is located on the dash next to the fuel tank switch(later models c1941), this later became the brake light switch. (c1942), head lamp dimmer switch c1944, as brake lights where no longer fitted. the later convoy switch switched the brake lights off and an axle flood lamp was fitted at the rear of the vehicle. clear as mud?

Does anyone have information on Part numbers etc for track rod ends for Humber, HU, Pu, Wu etc, or where to get them? regs Rupert

Hi from what I have Dorchester CC should still be holding these numbers, or go to the Krikhead trust, hope I spelt that right?

hi not really for mass X ray, But an x-ray Austin K2Y (early model c1941) converted to an X-Ray van for munitions, (mines)? HMS Vernon.

Just some updates, well thats the wheel nut off, sent off to be metal sprayed, may work may not mmm. damage front hub, High tensile bolts welded in have been removed, sent these off to be drilled out 5/8"BSF LH/RH, rear hubs1/2" BSF also went out.(to the left) rear axle E clips used to holed the shoes in very easy to fit these clips. unfortunately Ravens came in and stole the pack of E-clips, and front hub swivel hub locating pins, + a brake shoe washer, so the front wheel brakes are on holed until I make parts, they took one of the long bolts for the starter motor, which I found on the lawn. So I am not losing it yet, but the birds do not help! note assister spring, not listed for Humber HU, but a Humber part.used on other Humber"s.. New studs fitted, Red loctite , and pinned over Layrub coupling in a bit of a state,I will make poly bushes, as I did for the shocks. (90 day wait thought). flogged out companion flange for the layrub coupling, anyone got one? guess I will have to make. Fulcrum arms fitted new enclosed type heavy duty needle rollers, had to make bushes so they would fit, I ground down the original pacers and cut a slot to allow grease to flow about. these are longer that the 5/8" rollers but the shafts are ground to 3/4" so thats good. hardened inner sleeves(5/8") and needle rollers can be bought but the fulcrum housings would have to be m/ced to fit, transfer box dirty get it in the sonic, i don't do dirty anymore. stamped with the chassis no. so original. old paint stripped off by the sonic, original factory green, Desert sand on top, the RAF blue should be under the Desert sand but there was none found. front floor 1/2 cleaned. hopefully the captive bolts ( 3 sheared off upper left)will come lose in the sonic may take a few days.(about ten hours and they came out) as for tracing more history, nos found 1229 stamped to front diff, rear diff, rear axle housing stamped , 27.1229.41.9, (27/9/1941?), on front hub under steering arm WOH 2563, (War Office Humber?) none of these numbers can be found , vehicle not listed.

Hi A bit off track here, Does anyone have a list of RAF paint schemes, My Humber is army Green , then RAF blue, but the interior is Orange Everything, ant ideas as to when the RAF or RAAF did this colour change and on what Vehicles ie, Run way fire etc?

Hi I use water and degreaser, or washing powder. of course there are proper chemicals that can be bought, depending on the size of your unit you can clean lots of different parts at once by placing the components in separate containers with solution an let them float in the tank. so dirty stuff can be cleaned with cleaner parts all at once. I have a 2 gallon tank about, which means i can take the diff out and place it straight in the tank, I cycle the tank solution letting it settle in a drum and re use it, a diff covered in 30 years of thick clay cleans off in 4 days (48 hours), after wire brushing items, place them in the tank and they clean up really well, time is the thing the longer the better. BUT check regally as some materials will be errored by this action, poor grade cast iron will break up. leaf spring ends can be left to settle in the tank, a mesh tray to stop damage to the tank base, so nuts and bolts can be dropped in, for large items i place a copper sheet in the bottom. can be used to clean paint off if it was on to dirt the black paint has been removed, and some rust

Hi See page 4 of this post regs Rupert

I came across this truck, i maybe the one from Dog kennel Lane near Perth WA, which I came across about 20 years ago its gone down hill a bit. Now in Whiteman Park's outside area , until it rots away. with two othere vehciles that have been retired outside

I might as well, say I am looking for parts for a Humber HU 1941, drawings etc, mostly body parts information. regs Rupert

Hi they got about a bit. 059844--2-.TIF in Queensland Mount Gravitt VRD regs Rupert 059844--2-.TIF

Hi All just a note here, Removing the wheel cylinder, I expect most of you have do this before using grease. real pain with transverse cylinders, as they have to come apart to remove them from the back plate I found that the brake fittings are 1/4" flare (refrigeration) and so I used a (only bits I had), these are easy obtained from a local refrigeration supplier. 1/4" flare male/male, and one 3/8" male/1/4" female, which has enough metal to be tapped out 1/8"BSP for a grease nipple.(11/32" tapping drill) ideally a 3/8" male /1/4" male would do..

cheers G, Still no real links to the one I have, it came from Texas Queensland, 30 years back, and is really just a chassis, eng,gbox, I can write the body off although it looks very RAAF. but thick gauge steel, nice steel work, the framing is good and bad. rear body beveled for used as a Ambulance or Bus. as this 1942 pic shows before I started to remove the body, which was very heavy and had broken the windscreen supports off. there's even a shadow for the light/siren. regs Rupert

hi just found this page, heres one in Sydney c1948 and when sold another one for sale Hers the one I bought, there is not any orignal body left(som bits) I think there's more missing than I have, So this 8350498-M4380125 contract V.3829, and is all machine numbers including the axles, c1941. I have not found any history I can confirm, it has every colour of MV paint on it. and well flogged out I need lotos information on the body and lots of parts. regs Rupert

hi, it is listed as 4x4 personnel, I agree with Z for truck, but I do not know about these it just comes within the Indian M/C listing As listed earlier C4953034-C4955033, ? Indian M/c SM2404 I think this maybe a typo M4953034-M4955463 White P/Truck SM2277 some Indian combination numbers model 344 I think the C should be G G= Govt,? then date letters, as with the 741B eng. nos. or better just GDA = 741 CDD,= 344 I guess O=0 As FDO = 640 EDB = 542 and some are written CCD, (C34-1934) i found the us numbers sequel with the frame numbers, all 1944. just the odd one being out.