rbrtcrowther Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Yes please tell me why the pump failed cos mines in a thousand bits too:( I think the main symptoms are nasty crunching noises and chuncks of shrapnal after it's all turned to s**t. I thought i would check mine so removed the pipes to the oil cooler raised the rear wheels and sat there with it all whirring away in top gear...no oil at all:cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julezee001 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Symtoms first noticed were some backlash in the worm shaft. When tightening the diff input flange before W&P this year, the shaft moved in and out about 5mm when turned. Thought I'd look at it after the show. Then at the show in the arena I heard a nasty grinding noise on over run going over one of the dirt humps? I think that was as the shaft was forced to the rear in the casing, and the small grive gear was grinding on the teeth of the large pump gear pictured. I think the old pump will go again, and have dropped it off with a local engineer hoping he can turn a new pump shaft for it, and make a bush for the pump housing which had also been worn by the broken end of the shaft turning with the large gear. The spare pump housing is worn too, as there is a fair amount of play when wobbling the large gear, but hopefully it will do a trip to France without going bang? The last observation is that the spare axle still has OC600 in it, which is like treacle, making the recommended replacement of straight 140 oil seem like 3 in 1 oil? I wish I could get the real thing! Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Well I think I'll have a look inside mine soon, just to be on the safe side...:sweat: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julezee001 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 I'd recommend anyone who hasn't had a look at their pump recently to do it sooner rather than later, especially after the warnings of how much the 3 bearings cost! It really only needs the rear pump plate taken off and all is revealed. As soon as I come back from France my own Explorer will be checked, as I know the oil needs changing AGAIN, because the old heat exchanger leaked coolant into the new oil put in last year. Doh!!! Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Shouldn't think exhaust brakes help long life much come to think about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Think i know where i can get a pump for mine but i have also thought rigging up an electric one . mabey an electrc power steering pump off a peugot or something.:idea: dosent need to produce much pressure just pump oil to he worm and rear bearing. would have to drop the voltage to 12 volts at the pump. any other electric pumps you can think of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thor698 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Lucky you caught that in time Jules, what do you reckon was the cause of the pumps demise, and what were the symptoms? maybe the bronze in the oil bloked the pick up pipe.an old chap told me that he drove one in the army they would check the oils but it blew the diff. the bronze had bloked the filler neck so the oil level looked ok but the diff was dry. or the back lash on the pinion cort the oil pump gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julezee001 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I shall check the spare pump works, and that the pipe isn't blocked before re-fitting the pump cover. I think and electric drill or impact gun used carefully on the nut on the pump shaft should work. The other issue is the re-shimming of the large thrust bearing as this is clearly one of the major problems before, causing excessive backlash having worn the rear casing. It seems straightforward, so if all is ok, it should be back together by Friday evening, otherwise by the end of Saturday. Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Jules, PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 The Explorer handbook says that the rear hub oilseals should be fitted so that the lips face each other. The parts book shows the oilseals with the lips facing each other, but I have just stripped a hub and as found both oilseals are fitted the same way round, both have their lips facing the gearcasing. Is there an EMER of saomeother later instruction that indicates the seals should be fitted with both lips facing inwards or has someone in the past wrongly assembled the hub on my wife's Explorer. Logic suggests to me that if the oilseals were to be fitted facing in opposite directions each should have the lips facing away from each other. Ie the inner oilseal presents the lip to the oil in the gear case to keep it in, and the outer oilseal has the lip faing out to keep water out when wading. I can make no sense of how they are supposed to be according to the books. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Mike my book says lips together, but the exploded diagram only confuses the issue as it shows one clearly facing together but the other one unclear. Facing together would indeed allow water to get in between the seals, not good. I have not renewed mine but they are fitted in the most logical way as you suggest, lips facing apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Hi Mike , mine where both facing the same way as yours on all the hubs ! Good luck with the rebuild mate ! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv11301 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Mike my handbook says both seals face inwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 On reflection the only reason I can think of for fitting the outer seal facing inwards would mean that the springs (keeping the leather pressed against the hub) would be protected from rusting and being compacted with mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Next question, both the parts book and the illustration in the Technical handbook show the cotter pin fixing the arm to the camshaft, being fitted from the inside ( diff side) with the nut on the outside, (under the grease nipple). But Andi's Scammell has all four cotters fitted from the outside, with the nut on the diff side of the arm. Again has it been wrongly assembled before we got it. This has the effect of altering the relative angle between cam and arm. How have others got this fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 On mine all four are as per book, adjustment with new shoes is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 On mine all four are as per book, adjustment with new shoes is correct. That is how I am putting them back...Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Just taken off second rear hub, (first went back on last weekend.) and horrors the drum is pitted and rusted and is probably scrap. I am going to try and skim it on my lathe at work, I think it is too bad, Has anyone got some good drums and could spare one for Andi? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Does anyone know a maximum size to which Explorer rear brake drums can be bored out? I cannot find any info in the Tech Manual. There is a maximum permitted run-out, but no maximum size. Thanks for your attention, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 I'm almost sure it is stamped on the edge of the drum, I may be wrong but I think I have seen it somewhere like that. Do you think this would this explain the bodge to the cotters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 (edited) This station had the big nut done up with a chisel, I think the best explanation is that the vehicle has been owned by an idiot! Drum is far to rusty too find any stampings on it! Edited December 20, 2009 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Well he couldn't have been too thick if he managed to hit the chisel! If you can't get any info on the oversize, you could ask someone like Fraser Hook at Chelsea Frictions, he seemed to have all the relevant Scammell info when he relined my front shoes, and can make the linings to suit. fraserchelseafrictions.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Next hub is now off, no chisel marks on this one, but again rusted pitted drum, that I will need to get up on the lathe and skim.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 (edited) HELP! Having put in new oil seals, and re-assembling a hub, one was still found to be dripping from the backplate. Stripping again found no leak at the oil seal or the housing joint face. Instead the leak is coming down the side of the brake shoe Fulcrum pin, (pivot pin) The manual and parts book seen to show the pin with a male thread on the inner end, (end entereing the end gear casing.) The outer exposed end has in internal 9/16" BSF tapped thread. The pivot pin rotates freely, but doesn't unscrew. I presume that the tapped hole is for a slide hammer, but if the pin is just pressed in, why is there what appears to be an male thread on the inner end. Is the pin first pressed in then locked with a nut inside the gearcase, (but if so why does the nut not show on the parts list?) The manual does not mention how to remove or relace this pin. Has anyone any experience of this problem, ie ever had a loose fulcrum pin and a leak around it. If the pin is pressed in why is not into a blind hole. For a leak, the hole the pin is in must go all the way through to the inside of the casing. Has anyone got a casing apart at the moment to see if there is a nut (not shown in the parts book) on the male thread on the end of the pin? Only if there was a nut could I explain why the pin rotates freely, but won't unscrew or pull out. What does anyone know? Edited February 20, 2010 by antarmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv11301 Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Hello Mike You will have to take the end case off. The fulcrum pin has a taper with a flat washer castle nut and split pin inside the end caseing. Bit of a fiddle to get at without pressing out the hub shaft and removing the gear. Hope this helps. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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