downforce

Not Yet - To be honest I have been way too busy and I dont have a big enought garage to work on the Pinz when its been raining, snowing and minus degrees which seems to coincide with when I do have any time. Dale did the engine etc but I just need to do the finessing and check all the lights/horn work etc. As far as I know theres only a very few that are road registered at the moment and from my perspective having done a bit a research I am tempted to appy for the "special vehicle" category as a number of Mowag Bucher Duros have been registered as Specials. D

Thanks to everybody that replied The things I am really trying to figure out is (as per the OP of the thread MatchFuzee) What is the vehicle type on the V55 (which also relates to the type of test) so is it PHGV or is it "Special Vehicle" or something else (like Motorhome but it wont be that) What MoT do I need What do I do to get it to/from the test centre (no plates / trade plates/recovery) Its easily over 3.5T (something like 5T unladen) so its not going to "sneak in" D

Still trying to find out how to register a Pinzgauer Vector - someone must have got one registered by now As per Motleyholt YES it is >3.5T and I assume a HGV test will be required but its the actual filling in the DVLA form I'm looking for D

Hi has anyone registered a Pinzgauer Vector yet If so what did you use on the V55 for things like vehicle type etc? Also anything unusual about the MoT? thanks Downforce

Forgot to say - plan is supposed to be driving through Africa so no rush - given the current state of North Africa !!

Hi Tony I have an RB44 Im building into a overland truck (but really not making much progress). I looked at the comms body but it seemed too small - particularly with the wheelarches etc. I'd be interested in hearing how you get on DF

Still looking for the actual fire-fighting back for the RB44 - Any ideas?

I read the regs and there are several exceptions - one is where the "bodywork effectively performs the same function" or something similar wording - and also (see yellow one) tippers and tankers are exempt or only required as far as practical. The wheelbase is about 3.25m centre to centre so a bit to big to scrape by that avenue. Also someone else said PHGVs don't require Tacho and/or underrun protection. I wanted to propose a cattle prod to hasten the cyclist or pedestrian away from the side of the vehicle but apparently this is only permitted in RSA and movies! I actually considered mounting sand-ladders/waffleboards where the side bars would be - seemed like a good idea but needs to be done carefully to leave a flat surface (no sticky out wing nuts allowed). Useful to me going overlanding but i appreciate you don't always need them in Chelsea ! - Well actually today maybe you do! In the meantime can anyone tell me what the small circular electrical connector on the wiring loom that runs down the chassis leg behind the cab (LHS) sort of above the spare wheel goes to? DF

Thanks for the pics !

So I bought me an RB44 and am in the process of making it roadworthy (?) But mine is a RB44 FIRST STRIKE and I found after the auction Witham had sold the corresponding demountable fire fighting part at the same auction. I would love to have the ability treturn the RB to it's original spec but don't know where to find the demountable back Any ideas where they ended up ? "Demountable Fire Fighting Unit c/w 678 Litre Bowser Etc Manufactured by PSP Safety Products Ex Reserve"

I can't wait for the Witham advert with 130 Lynx for sale - I'd buy that for a dollar ! DF

Hi Richard You assumed wrong - it's been a ling time since I worked on anything with seized drum brakes, but I have wound back the adjusters now and that helped and got them off - thanks. Once I got the drum off I could see there are 2x threaded hole on the drum, which I assume can be used to either pull the drum or screw into to push against the back plate (acting like a press). The problem with mine was that the curved hand-brake cable guide/swivel was seized in the hand-brake "on" position. After the event, it was (maybe) possible to remove the rubber hand-brake cable grommet and loose off the swivel from behind, but if hindsight was foresight I would have been out spending my £80mil from the lottery! Took me 3+ hours to get them off and a couple of hours to strip and clean and about 20 minutes to put back together! Thanks for the post though DF

I have just bought an RB44 and the rear (LHS/NS) brakes are solid. So I am trying to remove the brake drum and have looked in the manual and removed the rear wheel (didn't see the bit about reversed threads but figured it out) but it's not clear to me if the drum should just pull off now or if I need to remove the hub (I hope not). Obviously with the brakes stuck on it's a bit tricky to tell the difference between the drum not coming off because it comes with the hub vs. not coming off because the brake shoes are binding (the wheel wont turn at all - which is contrary to what I heard about RB44 brakes !). Any tips on loosing off the brakes and/or if I should be able to just take the wheel off and pull the hub off appreciated - thanks. DF

redneck thanks that is helpful there is an empty socket under the steering column so I guess that's it the problem is that mine is an (AAC) ex-fire engine so there's loads of extra cabling that is just dangling, I assume this went to the blue lights etc. what part did you use for the flasher unit(s) ? any particular part or a common or garden generic flasher unit? BTW - does anyone know how to do the top left bolt that holds the brake servo in (above and behind the brake pedal) - I can hardly get my fingers on the nut, let alone get a socket in there ! I read somewhere else that RB44s are B@&$!@&*$ to work on and I'm starting to get that feeling. DF

Hi Where did you need to grease specifically - I'll make sure mine is all done. PS still looking for a wiring diagram - indicators don't work :cry: DF