Ron Posted April 21, 2023 Author Share Posted April 21, 2023 Yes Lex, I was going to give them to him anyway. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 23, 2023 Author Share Posted April 23, 2023 (edited) This is how the gearbox came with this project! Plus a spare pre-war hand change box. With some advice from Brett in New Zealand I've salvaged quite a nice gear cluster (a few parts came from the other box) all cleaned up and I've removed the main bearing and ordered a sealed version. I am missing some parts for the gear change mechanism though. Ron Edited April 23, 2023 by Ron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2023 Author Share Posted May 16, 2023 It's been several weeks of 3 steps forward and 2 steps back!! I had lots of issues with the gearbox which are hopefully becoming resolved. With help from my friends in New Zealand and Australia. Brett-John - Darren. Some of the paintwork was crazing up and I have no idea why? So I had to repaint those parts by using etch primer to block whatever was going on, after rubbing it all down again first.😖 The new brake linings wouldn't fit in the drums, so they went back to "Villiers" who sent them back 3 weeks later exactly the same. On their advice I had to make them fit by sanding a few thou off with strip emery. The rear brake arm is with a mate who is going to make the bush for the brake rod for me, and I bought some 5/16" rod and made the brake rod. (5" of 26tpi hand died down) Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2023 Author Share Posted May 16, 2023 Help from some good guys. The kickstart stop made for me in Stainless steel by Darren from JOB's original, and the WM20 footrests cut, welded and shaped by Dave. Copied from Rob's original. Many thanks. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 16, 2023 Share Posted May 16, 2023 Saw the pictures of your footrests already on FB! nice work!! Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 16, 2023 Author Share Posted May 16, 2023 Yes I took the picture from his FB page. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 I've collected the engine parts from Ainsley. New big end/small end (balanced and trued crank). Rebored barrel to take my modified Triumph piston and new valve guides. I can start on the engine rebuild now. Today I made the headlamp brackets and temporarily popped the gearbox in the frame. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnyob Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 You are going great guns Ron good progress photos too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 28, 2023 Author Share Posted May 28, 2023 An update on the progress so far. I built the head up,(Converted from hairpin springs) but I've since stripped it again as I wasn't happy with the spring pressure. It's back with Ainsley to mill .075" from under the spring seats, which will bring it in line with the normal coil spring set up. I've built the bottom end of the engine up. I'm waiting for an oil pump, sump plate and a few other parts to get it completed before it goes in the frame. Where possible I like to build the top end in the frame, rather than try and lift a complete engine. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 29, 2023 Author Share Posted May 29, 2023 (edited) Today I completed the wiring harness. Using our favourite rubber covered cable. (Now unobtainable😕) I just have to connect to the horn, dynamo and brake light switch. I have a nice switch which I'm hoping to hide under the left side pannier. I've fitted an original MT110 tail lamp which only holds a single filament bulb. As I like a brake light! My trick with these is to fit a 36W single filament bulb and put a 1 ohm resistor in the cable to the tail lamp.. This reduces the current to the bulb by about two thirds.(equivalent to around 12W). Then connect the brake light cable to the output side of the resister, which then illuminates the whole 36W. Otherwise I'm waiting for more engine parts and a gearbox sprocket. Ron Edited May 29, 2023 by Ron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnyob Posted May 30, 2023 Share Posted May 30, 2023 Hi Ron I’m doing this with the m20 on the bench & intend to do with the WB30 when it gets it’s turn where have you hidden the resistor ? have you soldered it in line to the rear light wire or gone another route ? br job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted May 30, 2023 Share Posted May 30, 2023 Nice Ron, but weren't the MT110's always painted in service colour? Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 30, 2023 Author Share Posted May 30, 2023 (edited) Quite right Lex. But concidering that the whole number plate/MT110 is not original equipment I just went with satin black. But on reflection, I think I'll paint it brown. John, it seems obvious to solder and mount the resistor in the headlamp. But that means either running the brake light cable all the way to the headlamp or making another joint somwhere near the rear wheel. I use these 25W -1ohm resistors bought for a few quid each and solder them into the cable around the saddle area. In this case I've mounted it with rubber ties inside the frame tube above where the oil tank goes. In fact I'm going to cut those screw hole feet off and re tape it. Definitely not original but nore is a brake light switch. Ron Edited May 30, 2023 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted July 10, 2023 Author Share Posted July 10, 2023 Since my opp, I'm very slowly nibbling away at it. I got the magdyno on yesterday and shimmed up the drive end by 25thou to allow a tiny bit of lash in the teeth. (I hate a wining mag pinion) The top edge of my piston is 100 thou down from the top of the bore ( Because of the compression plate and extra gasket...I'm using a specially prepared Triumph 750cc piston which brings it to 400cc ) So I set my Vernier at .6" . So far I've set the timing three times, but still very slightly retarded. I've had enough for today, will have a fresh start again tomorrow. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 Good that you're on your feet again Ron! but don't overdo it! Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 Having pondered why the WB30 ignition timing is quoted as 1/2" BTDC on full advance, when the B29 (same engine) and the subsequent post war models B31 are all listed as 7/16" BTDC. I talked it over with a friend and we came to the conclusion that maybe it had something to do with the low grade pool petrol?? Anyway since I have a modified piston, I decided to readjust it to 7/16". I hope I've made the right decision as it's so much easier with the head off. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Ron, with the modern fuel, I always time my engines a bit more advanced, so wouldn't worry about it. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted July 11, 2023 Author Share Posted July 11, 2023 Cheers Lex Always better to be over advanced, but never retarded! At least you can retard it at the lever if it pinks. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnyob Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Hi Ron earlier this year we both 50m of silicon rubber wire / has it recently been stopped by the supplier job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnyob Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 Good to hear you are recovering ron I meant to ask - what valve springs were you using after you removed the hairspring type - std b31 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted July 12, 2023 Author Share Posted July 12, 2023 (edited) Hi John. I think Lex will confirm, the rubber wire is now very difficult (even impossible) to obtain. The part numbers for the WB30 valves/guides/springs/colletts and caps are exactly the same as B31. But since I needed everything, I ended up using 7 different suppliers. The inlet and exhaust valves and therefore the guides and collets are different diameters........What a palava!! You'd think that B31 parts would be readily available!! I also had to get the floor of the rocker box machined down to accept the bottom spring caps at the right hight for correct spring tension. Regards Ron Edited July 12, 2023 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 Hi guys, Yes, it's again impossible to buy the rubber cable, a real nuisance! I may be able to do it, but need to order over 750 quid's worth, I am skint once more, so will not happen soon. Even the guy on Ebay is out of it, it seems. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie Posted July 15, 2023 Share Posted July 15, 2023 (edited) If it comes to considering a bulk order I would buy a few rolls, would be handy to have on the shelf. Alec. Edited July 15, 2023 by Rangie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 Ok, but it will be 100 quid minimum I think. Thanks, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 I'd be happy to buy a roll off anyone who buys in Bulk. Didn't I see that Mark Cook on the WM20 forum is selling it? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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