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BSA WB30


Ron

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I've spent quite a bit of time this week on the front wheel. Starting with finding some suitable quality sealed bearings to replace the knackered Timkin taper bearings. (Thanks Darren).  My mate John made a new front wheel axel, (EN16) after I had  calculated the distance for the internal support for the bearings. 

Then in and out of the forks a few times to get the fit right and finally to calculate the new offset for the wheel builder. 

Finally I cut the old spokes out and stripped the hub and rim to bare metal. Primer next then off to Adam for rebuild with new spokes.   Ron

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I've made the mudguard stay bridge pieces, the top one is temporarily held with bolts (rivets to come)  and the awkward loop stays, with some finishing off to do. The rear lower stays and pannier support tubes are being made by Jan.   Ron

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Hi Ron 

nice work on the rear stays / it’s not a common bsa style this - but seems to be more commonly found on matchless & Norton cycles of the time 

I will be asking jan to fabricate but after I fix what rear guard I will be using 

it seems m20 lower stays will fit 

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17 minutes ago, Jonnyob said:

it seems m20 lower stays will fit 

Hi John,

I’ve made an overlay of a WM20 and a WB30 line drawing, and I come to the conclusion that the horizontal stays on a WB30 are 1/2” shorter than on a WM20. (LHS and RHS on a WM20 are different: LHS is 1/8 longer than RHS, due to the asymmetric rear frame. Is the WB30 frame symmetric?)
 
The bottom tubes for the pannier frames on a WM20 have a dropped down eyelet. The eyelet on the WB30 bottom tubes is straight. When I compare the length of the bottom tube with the diameter of the rim, I calculate an overall length of 290mm. On a WM20 this is 380mm. The brackets to support the pannier frames appear to be completely different. Just my twopennies... 😊
 
Cheers,
Jan
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Yes John, Jan is making M20 lowers stays and support tubes. Minus the strap that fits to the stud on the lower stay as we think the angle is different.

With my limited resources, the loop stays took me a whole 8 hour day to make.  I'm sure Jan's would be better and quicker. But the determination to have a go gets the better of me. Ron

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Hi Jan typing together there.

Firstly, the B30 frame is symetrical. I measured the length of the rear lower stay and concidering that there is some flex in the tail piece, I make it 12".

I'm not quite understanding your part about an eylete and the difference in length of the bottom tubes. ie 11 1/2" compared to 15"??   Please explain.  Cheers Ron

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43 minutes ago, Jonnyob said:

Hi Ron 

nice work on the rear stays / it’s not a common bsa style this - but seems to be more commonly found on matchless & Norton cycles of the time 

I will be asking jan to fabricate but after I fix what rear guard I will be using 

it seems m20 lower stays will fit 

Are you still planning to manufacture a new copy? 

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11 minutes ago, Ron said:

Firstly, the B30 frame is symetrical. I measured the length of the rear lower stay and concidering that there is some flex in the tail piece, I make it 12".

Is that center-center or is it the overall length Ron?

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I get it now Jan. I just did my own scaling and agree with you on the 290mm ( 11 1/2" ) support tubes.  But wouldn't the "eylet" still need a joggle as on the M20?  Ron

 

PS No No! I see what you mean now. The "eylet" has a slight curve down.....DOH!

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I've dismantled the rear hub spindle and bearings and have got a pair of sealed ball races coming. I'll have to make an appropriate support tube between the bearings and john will make me a selection of spacers like he did for the front wheel. .......No adjusting or maintenance with these....., fit and forget.  Ron

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My local tube firm bent up the top rail of the rear carrier for me, of course the angles were quite a bit off. I've been scaling it against the line drawing and I'm satisfied that I've got that part pretty well lined up. 

It should be fun making the legs now. When I do get them made. I'll MIG tack them on and then get  Mark the tube guys welder to neatly TIG weld them on for me. Ron

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I made the legs and cross tube and tacked them on. I'll make and weld the pannier frame lugs on at a later date when I have the lower supports fitted.  Ron

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How does your rear rack measure against the rack I have Ron - have you fitted this to your rear section yet ?

if it’s correct then those of us who need rear racks for our projects can be happy that the rack going to jan will be correct dimensionally for reproduction at his place 

jo’b

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John I just sat your carrier on to the bike. Apart from the front mounts, nothing lines up for this model. It is obviously the correct one for the earlier ultra light weight model for its skeleton rear guard. The extended rails at the back must pick up on the rear of the pannier frames.  Ron 

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This weekend I finished fitting up the rear guard, put the chainguard step in, stripped and primed. 

I also spent a tedious couple of hours on the push rod tube,  filing and sanding with 180 grit, to get rid of a lot of the scratches and dings. Lots more work to do on this yet. I should have another one coming, but I don't know if it's any better, but at least I can pick the best of the two.  Ron

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